Advice needed re problems Gazelle easy glider

[mastanlem]

Hi I have a two year old Gazelle. Each time it has been in for service to two different cycle shops, when I have ridden it the wheel has moved and jammed against the frame making it impossible to ride.

On the second occasion the bike shop suggested fitting chain tensioners.

He fitted one on one side only because of the chain guard, my husband however says he can't see how that is going to stop the wheel moving as it should be fitted the other side as well. Is this correct.

At the moment I do not have any confidence riding the cycle as the last time it jammed I was just about to cross a busy main road and dread to think what would have happened had It jammed halfway across. It is quite heavy to move with only one wheel.

Regards Mastanlem

 

[tillson]

When you say that the wheel has moved, do you mean the rear wheel? If so, when you pedal, the chain has probably pulled the sprocket side of the rear wheel forwards in the slots with the net result of it twisting in the frame. You will probably find that the tyre then rubs on the frame or the brakes rub on the rim making the wheel very difficult to turn. I had this happen on my Kalkhoff and it was because the rear wheel nuts weren’t tight enough. They really do need to be tightened properly to stop this happening. If you have a torque wrench, the nuts should be tightened to 45 NM which is white knuckles tight plus a good bit more if you don’t.

 

[flecc]

Chain tensioners can help, but they are most needed on the chain side as you say. The best thing is to do as Tillson has said, which should provide a permanent cure.
.

 

[jac]

hi also make sure the big thick washers are in right place

jim

 

[mastanlem]

Thank you all for your help. My husband is going to look for his torque wrench as suggested.

Mastanlem

 

[mastanlem]

When you say that the wheel has moved, do you mean the rear wheel? If so, when you pedal, the chain has probably pulled the sprocket side of the rear wheel forwards in the slots with the net result of it twisting in the frame. You will probably find that the tyre then rubs on the frame or the brakes rub on the rim making the wheel very difficult to turn. I had this happen on my Kalkhoff and it was because the rear wheel nuts weren’t tight enough. They really do need to be tightened properly to stop this happening. If you have a torque wrench, the nuts should be tightened to 45 NM which is white knuckles tight plus a good bit more if you don’t.

Hi,

Yes it was the rear wheel and the nuts weren't tight.

My husband has found his torque wrench, can you please tell me what the torque settings are in pounds.

Thanks mastanlem

 

[flecc]

Hi,

Yes it was the rear wheel and the nuts weren't tight.

My husband has found his torque wrench, can you please tell me what the torque settings are in pounds.

Thanks mastanlem

64 ft pounds.
.

 

[mastanlem]

64 ft pounds.
.

Corr that was quick. Thanks Flecc.
Regards Mastanlem.

 

[tillson]

64 ft pounds.
.

Hi Flecc

I was working on the wheel nuts nedding to be tightened to 45 NM which is the higher of the range of values given on the Shimano data sheet. My sums make this 33 ft lb torque.

Your figure is nearly twice that and I was a bit concerned that it might be too much. I have just used the torque figures for the SG-8R Nexus hubs here. Have you used different figures?

 

[flecc]

I just used a published conversion chart rather than work out a figure Tillson, so I stand to be corrected on it. Shimano's figure certainly should be ok, with perhaps a touch more in a motor and rider combined power situation.

P.S. I just checked another chart and agree your 33, the first chart must have been wrong. Sorry Mastanlem
.

 

[tillson]

The figure is 33 ft lb. I have just tried it in a conversion chart and get the same figure as my manual working out. As you say, a bit more for motor / rider combo won't hurt, but perhaps not too much.


Regards

Tom

EDIT: Looks like we posted at the same time on this one!

 

[flecc]

EDIT: Looks like we posted at the same time on this one!

Indeed!

I should have realised that first figure was obviously wrong, but I just typed it in on "auto" without thinking, alway a daft thing to do.
.

 

[mastanlem]

I just used a published conversion chart rather than work out a figure Tillson, so I stand to be corrected on it. Shimano's figure certainly should be ok, with perhaps a touch more in a motor and rider combined power situation.

P.S. I just checked another chart and agree your 33, the first chart must have been wrong. Sorry Mastanlem
.

Hi,

He's already done it so is it going to be a problem will he need to loosen the nuts up a bit.

Regards Mastanlem

 

[tillson]

Hi,

He's already done it so is it going to be a problem will he need to loosen the nuts up a bit.

Regards Mastanlem

If it were my bike, I would undo the nuts and start again tightening them to 33 ft lb / 45 NM.

 

[mastanlem]

If it were my bike, I would undo the nuts and start again tightening them to 33 ft lb / 45 NM.

Thank you.

He's not going to be a very happy bunny.

 

[flecc]

Tell him sorry from me!
.

 

[mastanlem]

Tell him sorry from me!

Thanks Flecc, have done.

It's all sorted now so I can safely cycle to work.

Regards mastanlem