Advice wanted for DIY Welsh commuter (Trek FX conversion?)

Bman80

Finding my (electric) wheels
Feb 19, 2020
20
4
Snowdonia
Having said that I didn't want to get into fabrication... I'm now thinking that an aluminium bottle could make a great sly sleeve for the Faro battery.

Might be sneaky enough to stop my workmates from calling me a cheat when I get to work. :p

The Faro battery looks quite long, What are the dimensions? and is the controller integrated or would that have to fit in too?
 

Woosh

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May 19, 2012
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What are the dimensions?
I wrote the dimensions down somewhere... can't find them right now. From memory, something like 5.5cm in diameter, 52cm long. I'll get you the dimensions tomorrow.
If you want to use the Faro battery, you also get the Faro seat tube controller. The Faro has a cut out hole near the bottom bracket for the cables to exit the seat tube and your bike doesn't, the seat tube controller will need to be placed outside the seat tube and cabletied to the seat tube.
I'll post some pictures of the electrics on the Faro tomorrow.
 

andyh2

Esteemed Pedelecer
Jan 8, 2008
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So does that mean that if you run a 34t chainring with 11-42 cassette that in 1st gear 42t sprocket the torque is 42/34x100=124NM?
 

Woosh

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So does that mean that if you run a 34t chainring with 11-42 cassette that in 1st gear 42t sprocket the torque is 42/34x100=124NM?
yes, that's correct. You would have to spin very fast to go anywhere with that front to rear ratio.
 

Benjahmin

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Nov 10, 2014
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Benny, you seem to have a good grasp on what's going on here. If your budget can stand it, I would always go for the bigger battery. Over 3-4 years battery degredation can rob you of a significant range capacity. I can almost guarentee that you will not be using this bike for just your commute, mainly because they're such a blast to ride, so the extra range will come in handy. Also it could be charged just a couple of times a week.
Motor max rpm is achieved at magnetic saturation, this will be it's no load speed. Maximum bang for your buck seems to be when the motor is run at around 80% of this max rpm (but 50-80 is OK). So a motor that gives a 17-18mph reading on the stand, run at about 14-15mph would be the best efficiency(hub motor). Running this down to 8-9 mph will not produce significant heat at the motor. I find I get up most hills at around this speed.
The 250W rating is not the motors consumption, this is dependant on the controller amperage rating. The motor will consume whatever the 'valve' of the controller allows through. Hence, on hills, 6-700 watts is perfectly feasable (in max setting), dropping to much lower figures on the flat as speed rises. As it rises towards magnetic saturation, the back emf generated limits the current drawn. Hence riding at or near max rpm less power is drawn.
Well that's the theory anyway, start adding if air resistance, wind, weight etc and it's a maths nightmare - well beyond my little brain to figure.
 

Bman80

Finding my (electric) wheels
Feb 19, 2020
20
4
Snowdonia
It's funny that you recommend the bigger battery as I came to a similar conclusion chewing over with my wife last night. Having bought a 5yo electric car we have done the calcs on range limitation based upon worst case scenario of a cold and windy winter day in in 3-5 years time, rather than on a warm summers day when new.
Though North and West Wales will be full of charger by then right. :rolleyes:

Plus the worst case scenario may be that I knacker my knee or just feel tired and use more assitance than normal without worrying about range. I also hope that your right and I end up blasting up Llanberis pass for fun on an evening, because I can. :)

I always have to stop the wannabe engineer in me taking on another project. I've got a house project, a van project and two young kids, I shouldn't be messing around with battery sleeves for an ebike (one day). I'd rather get the big battery and spend the time putting another kit on my mountain bike so that I can get to some really interesting places and then I would want the big battery.
 

Bman80

Finding my (electric) wheels
Feb 19, 2020
20
4
Snowdonia
I notice Woosh are eligable for the cycle to work scheme.

Mine is run by Sodexo - how much commission do they charge?
Is it worth my while using it or will they cream off most of the savings?
 

Woosh

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May 19, 2012
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10% commission.
 

Bman80

Finding my (electric) wheels
Feb 19, 2020
20
4
Snowdonia
Hi everyone,
Thanks for your advice.

I decided to order the Woosh lightweight Aikema motor in a rear hub kit with the 17Ah battery, left pedal sensor. Will post some pics and thoughts after the build on my Trek Fx7.3.

photos.app.goo.gl



Any extra advice for commuter bike upgrades? I have a pair of SKS chromoplastic mud guards waiting to be fitted and plan to get a puncture proof tyre for the rear wheel. Is it worth going up to a 35c from the current 32c do you think? will be some pretty grungy lanes on my commute and thought the extra grip/comfort might be worth it.
 

sjpt

Esteemed Pedelecer
Jun 8, 2018
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Surely you don't need mudguards in Wales? It never rains there.

I think a wider tyre would help if there is clearance. (Schwalbe Marathon Plus). Remember there is often a difference in sizing between brands that is at least as big as a 32/35 difference. I don't know the best place to get reliable information about that, though.
 

gw8izr

Pedelecer
Jan 1, 2020
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240
Definitely mudguards!

One thing I’m considering on mine now is upgrading the front brake to a disc. I’m finding the v brakes struggle a bit when it’s wet and the extra weight of the bike (and before anyone says it - me) are compounding that.

Even here on Anglesey the hills are steep :)
 

Nealh

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Aug 7, 2014
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Magura's HDR brakes are an option if you don't have disc brake mounts.
 
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gw8izr

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Jan 1, 2020
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Magura's HDR brakes are an option if you don't have disc brake mounts.
Yes I’ve got disc mounts on the front fork (suspension) so that’s a relatively straightforward job and the back brakes are okay really. The front is okay really but the block wear seems quite significant so far ;-)

But looking at the front forks on the OP bike, I think it might be a struggle to get the disk rotor inside the fork, due to the oversize tubing At the lugs.
 

Bman80

Finding my (electric) wheels
Feb 19, 2020
20
4
Snowdonia
cheers sjpt, I've read good things about the Schwalbe Marathon Plus and I'm pretty sure a 35 should fit as the almost identical FX7.2 has them fitted as standard.

I have thought that the brakes might be a weak point if I plan to ride in all weather more often. Looking at photos of the Trek Fx7.x disc I think the fork is different. I guess I'll start off with the rim brakes and see how I get on... I'm light and so is the bike, so is the Aikema motor, so might be OK.

The first half mile of my commute home is an Anglesey hill. Straight up Menai Bridge high street and over the bridge to the mainland - pretty hairy on the bridge on a windy day - but its rarely windy on Anglesey. :p
 

gw8izr

Pedelecer
Jan 1, 2020
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The first half mile of my commute home is an Anglesey hill. Straight up Menai Bridge high street and over the bridge to the mainland - pretty hairy on the bridge on a windy day - but its rarely windy on Anglesey. :p
Which ever way I travel from here at one end of the journey I have to deal with Parys Mountain :)
 

gw8izr

Pedelecer
Jan 1, 2020
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240
Magura's HDR brakes are an option if you don't have disc brake mounts.
Can you narrow that down a little bit for me please as Google is letting me down.

I’ve got disc mounts at the front but interested in what improvements I can make at the back as well, just curiosity really.
 

sjpt

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Jun 8, 2018
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I'm not sure. Maybe he meant the Magura hydraulic rim brakes? HS11/22/33. We've got those on the Motus and I find them a pain to adjust, and no better braking than V brakes. (Maybe I'm doing something wrong? I don't know other people's option of them.)
 

Jonah

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Aug 23, 2010
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Can you narrow that down a little bit for me please as Google is letting me down.

I’ve got disc mounts at the front but interested in what improvements I can make at the back as well, just curiosity really.
I’ve had Magura HS11 brakes on previous bikes that were very good.
 

gw8izr

Pedelecer
Jan 1, 2020
224
240
I'm not sure. Maybe he meant the Magura hydraulic rim brakes? HS11/22/33. We've got those on the Motus and I find them a pain to adjust, and no better braking than V brakes. (Maybe I'm doing something wrong? I don't know other people's option of them.)
Okay if that’s the case it makes sense, I’m trying to avoid something that runs in the wet and mud really so anything running on the rim is only going to be squeezing the rim a bit more for less handle effort, so probably won’t reduce the wear on the blocks caused by the grinding paste effect :)