Another little gem on ES Forum.

jerrysimon

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Do you have a link ?
 

Nealh

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jerrysimon

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Ah yes I have seen that. I think he is going to do them pretty much ready assembled. Not available yet and probably £20-30 more once you have purchased the extra bits needed. Havinbg said that by the time I return mine and get it back repaired probably will have cost me the same.
 

mxer

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I like it and will be pre ordering, I like his dedication to getting things right and forum presents, he has a great following.
The all one board sold it to me looks quality and solid.
 

anotherkiwi

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Not only the welders look great but the non weld packs from the Lithuanian guy look good too. I love his little stab at Vruzend with the log and the hammer :)

Interesting times for the DIY e-bike builder with so many good battery building choices they are making it tough to decide!
 
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Nealh

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Got in early evening from a 85 mile ride and was surprised to see a few parcels waiting for me. One was the Boss, 11 days using the snail mail method. Not to shabby at all.
The manual switch wasn't included, though not to bothered following Jerry's misfortune.
 
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jerrysimon

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Interesting times for the DIY e-bike builder with so many good battery building choices they are making it tough to decide!
Indeed it is. When I started back in 2009 trying to get batterries with tags or welded up in certain configs was difficult. Now you can DIY.
 

Nealh

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Had a play with the BSW today and all looking good.
From Ebay I got a pair of 2200mah 25c 3s Floureon lipo's for £19.99 to run in P, like Rojitor on ES I had to play with the settings and a couple of old cells to get the right weld strength with out burning holes or causing damage to the tabs/battery. Using pure 0.15 pure nickel strip which I ordered from Aliexpress (tested with saline for purity) the 5mm strip that came with the BSW is Ni plated.
 

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Deleted member 4366

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The welds look pretty good at the moment, but when you try and weld strips to connect those groups, you'll find that the welds are a lot less reliable. You can solve that by dremmeling slots in the strips. Use one of the rigid discs to plunge a sllit where you will make the welds. That forces the current to go down through the metal rather than taking the easiest shortest path directly through the strip from one electrode to the other. You can also weld with much less power like that. the photo makes it look messier than it is:

welding.jpg
 
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jerrysimon

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Posted mine back today finally to get repaired. I just sent the main unit back so was a little cheaper.

So Nealh, are using the auto mode ? Ah just read you never had the manual switch included anyway.

Good heads up D8veh on cutting slots in the strips, I read that somewhere else too.
 
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jerrysimon

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Sometimes we wonder about Chinese and other oriental post but my parcel sat in the UK sorting office from 8/8/17 to today 16/8/17 before it was finally handed to the Korea postal service. That was after I chased them by phone and email to find out what was happening!

On the up side Lee (Aulakiria) was so concerned with how long I have had to wait for a repaired unit that today he emailed me to say that he would send out a new unit before mine got back to him and he had time to fix it.

Again you would be hard pushed to find a UK supplier that would do that :)

Clearly a top guy!
 
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Nealh

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Modded my spot welder this afternoon as after a few welds (50+) the mosfet temp son rises to well over 45 oC and the max they can handle is 50.
22awg wire, XT60, Heat shrink and 4 20mm m4 screws I had to hand already.
Of fleabay I got ;
2 x 40mm sq heat sinks £1.03 the pair
2 12v mini fans £1.56 the pair.
Silicone thermal adhesive £1.59.

The two fans are wired in P and run off the lipo's also in P.
DSCF0007.JPG

DSCF0009.JPG
For power I use 3 Floureon 3s 25c's in P.
Connection are 3 pairs of twin P leads, the 4th unused XT connects to the fans.
DSCF0011.JPG
 
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Deleted member 4366

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Great work. Something I discovered from my own welding. A double spot-welder can normally weld OK when you weld the first layer of nickel strip to the cells, but when you weld another layer over the top, the welds don't hold.

This is because the current takes the easier path between the electrodes instead of going down through the two layers of nickel. The solution is to plunge slots in the nickel using a disc on a Dremmel. That forces the current down and through instead of jumping across. That way, you can weld with about 1/4 of the power and every weld is perfect. If you look at any quality OEM battery, they all use slotted strips.
 

Nealh

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My welder went up in smoke today so for ne it doesn't even turn on, there was a bit of magic smoke that appeared from behind the lcd display.
Sending back for a repair is an option but will likely cost £13- £14 50 send back + repair cost and return postage.

Have bit the bullet and ordered an Arduino model from Malectric in Germany.
 

anotherkiwi

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How many welds did you get out of it?
 

Nealh

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Didn't count but probably 2.5 -3.5k.
 
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wheeliepete

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My welder went up in smoke today
Sorry to hear that Neal, always a pain when your favorite tool dies, but sounds like you got fairly good use from it. I'm dying to try one of those Arduino welders, but my Sunkko 709 is still working, albeit in a "Sunkko kinda way"
 

Nealh

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I have posted pics on ES Boss thread showing what I think is a fried component possibly a nano solid state looking resistor. Hoping Aulakiria the designer will see it to confirm.
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=89076&start=375
The component is on D1 line on the rear of the lcd display, as the display no longer switches on my thinking is D1 = display line.
I'm not binning it as I think it is repairable but at what cost ? That is the problem with small techy units.
The Malectric is likely better like the Kweld separate component parts are available and in Germany so easier then Korea.
 
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