I have one here some where fits Carrera and Raleigh , problem is the Giant is the Large frame so I have the seat at its lowest height and I think the diameter of the seat post is to big .
But I will see if it fits and give it a go
Are E-bikes overpriced?
- Thread starter MarcusT
- Start date
But I will see if it fits and give it a go
The Mirider has an adjustable elastomer shock absorber l don't know how much travel it gives at the rear wheel, a few cm at the most but it makes a difference for sure
You're not supposed to "hit it with a mallet"! 1mm is way too big. Seat posts come with the size stamped on them. If you don't have the original seat post get a digital caliper and measure the seat tube to get the right size. I do hope this isn't another bike that you intend to sell on. If it is, take it to someone who knows what they're doing!
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LOL no this is my own bike , it is literally 1mm to big if I was going to try and make it fit which I am not I would have probably tried to polish it in on the post and the frame .You're not supposed to "hit it with a mallet"! 1mm is way too big. Seat posts come with the size stamped on them. If you don't have the original seat post get a digital caliper and measure the seat tube to get the right size. I do hope this isn't another bike that you intend to sell on. If it is, take it someone who knows what they're doing!
But then it’s easier to sell this one that’s fits Carrera and Raleigh and buy the correct size .
I just being tight
So I am weighing up as it is now lowest point I can just touch the ground when stationary or dropping down but having suspension when stopping at lights ECT .
Or do what my wife would do and just keep the smaller Raleigh Array which I really pleased with except the battery range or just keep both .
Or what is more likely as I sell everything sell them all and go again
Looks like Suntour NCX. If so, and in good order, would get a good s/h price on eBay, and you can buy one of the correct diameter.
They are very good, totally different animal to the cheap crappy telescopic ones. Worth every penny.
Has any one any input as to whether the Giant and Yamaha mid drive motors are suitable to be used with 48V instead of 36V ?
Obviously if the 48V battery had the original comms or BMS board
I see there is quite a big difference in price on the Suntours ones , I have not read up on them but I am assuming a cheaper one is for the road and the higher end ones are for off road sport use ?
As the wife also has an untreatable injury on the bottom of the spine I also need to get her something rather than poaching spares from the stock as it comes in .
Obviously if the 48V battery had the original comms or BMS board
Yes agree I have been looking at this one came of a very low miles Subway that I broke for spares so it looks quite new I will give it a go on the Array first .
I see there is quite a big difference in price on the Suntours ones , I have not read up on them but I am assuming a cheaper one is for the road and the higher end ones are for off road sport use ?
As the wife also has an untreatable injury on the bottom of the spine I also need to get her something rather than poaching spares from the stock as it comes in .
The only way to do that is with an external controller, then you can use any battery that fits. The problem with increasing the voltage of a mid-drive is that it makes the cranks spin faster and reduces the efficiency at normal pedal speeds, so only do that if your a spinner.
I see like ie ghost peddling, So for a 48V mid drive bike self build go for a Mid drive like Tong Sheg or Bafang that have been designed for bigger volts .
I Put the Suntours seat post on the Raleigh I see what you all mean much better than the single piston one .
Now I am thinking oil brakes and a second rear rack battery for more range especially in PAS 5 when it’s like MOP.
So good in low PAS for getting fitter but a bit of power to get up the hills until my fitness level gets better .
With the speed limited to 15.5 MPH what would happen in low gear with a bigger Crank ?
Suntour website points out that fakes are common.
www.srsuntour.com
Any silly prices are likely fake product, and uncertain performance. About £90 from a reputable bike shop, and will last years so not worth getting scammed to save a few quid.
Mid-drives and hills... the top torque sensor bikes like Shimano EP8 and Bosch Performance CX multiply rider input by 500% i.e. they put in four times as much effort as the rider in the highest assistance level. The rider is only doing 20% of the work, which is not a lot, but of course far more than the zero effort of ghost pedalling.
If you want to improve your fitness, there is no point having a cadence sensor bike.
All hills are climbable. You just need a low enough bottom gear to keep your cadence / pedal rpm at 60 or more at an effort you can sustain in highest assist level. Just don't expect to go everywhere at 15.5 mph, and don't expect the motor to work at 30rpm. Use the gears properly.
A 10 speed 11-42 cassette will do for most, I prefer 11 speed 11-51.
Seatpost - SR SUNTOUR Cycling
Any silly prices are likely fake product, and uncertain performance. About £90 from a reputable bike shop, and will last years so not worth getting scammed to save a few quid.
Mid-drives and hills... the top torque sensor bikes like Shimano EP8 and Bosch Performance CX multiply rider input by 500% i.e. they put in four times as much effort as the rider in the highest assistance level. The rider is only doing 20% of the work, which is not a lot, but of course far more than the zero effort of ghost pedalling.
If you want to improve your fitness, there is no point having a cadence sensor bike.
All hills are climbable. You just need a low enough bottom gear to keep your cadence / pedal rpm at 60 or more at an effort you can sustain in highest assist level. Just don't expect to go everywhere at 15.5 mph, and don't expect the motor to work at 30rpm. Use the gears properly.
A 10 speed 11-42 cassette will do for most, I prefer 11 speed 11-51.
I went from mine up to Hampstead Heath last week pure hill from Cricklewood NW2 , I had not done that ride since the late 1970s on Raleigh Choppers I forgot how long the hill was on the Giant Entour I needed the low gears and full assist .Suntour website points out that fakes are common.
Seatpost - SR SUNTOUR Cycling
Any silly prices are likely fake product, and uncertain performance. About £90 from a reputable bike shop, and will last years so not worth getting scammed to save a few quid.
Mid-drives and hills... the top torque sensor bikes like Shimano EP8 and Bosch Performance CX multiply rider input by 500% i.e. they put in four times as much effort as the rider in the highest assistance level. The rider is only doing 20% of the work, which is not a lot, but of course far more than the zero effort of ghost pedalling.
If you want to improve your fitness, there is no point having a cadence sensor bike.
All hills are climbable. You just need a low enough bottom gear to keep your cadence / pedal rpm at 60 or more at an effort you can sustain in highest assist level. Just don't expect to go everywhere at 15.5 mph, and don't expect the motor to work at 30rpm. Use the gears properly.
A 10 speed 11-42 cassette will do for most, I prefer 11 speed 11-51.
The pint at the top was a nice reward though .
Going to do it again in the morning and an early morning swim at the Lido at Gospel Oak , I just found out over 60s swim free early morning happy days .
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