Hi. I have a Centros GT with hub gears and a belt drive. The rear wheel is moving out of line despite tightening the wheel fixings and the adjusters. Id the belt too tight and causing the misalignment and how do I fix it ? Reset rear wheel and within half an hour of riding, it is off centre again ! Any ideas ?
Belt drive adjustment !!
- Thread starter Zebede
- Start date
I haven't seen your bike, so it would be nice if you could confirm what type of drop-outs you have. I'm going to assume that you have the angled ones that adjust chain/belt tension.
This is a problem you get on many of those bikes with angled drop-outs. It's poor design.
This system has worked for decades as a method to adjust chain tension on bikes with hub-gears, and it has been very successful. For non-electric and bikes with front hub-motors, there is only man-power to put tension on the chain, which is easily resisted by the friction on the wheel-nuts to keep everything in place; however, crank motors can put 4 times the amount of tension on the chain, and the wheel nuts struggle to resist that. When they're overwhelmed, the wheel gets pulled forward on the chain/belt side and you lose tension. The engineers must have been too thick to figure that out.
The only thing you can do is tighten the nuts. It helps if the grip washer is sharp, and after they've slipped a few times, they can't grip as well, so maybe think about getting some new ones.
As I said, the design is poor. They should use proper horizontal drop-outs with adjusters on the axle, like you get on motorbikes. I see that they've modified that system on the latest models, so they must have seen the problem.
This is a problem you get on many of those bikes with angled drop-outs. It's poor design.
This system has worked for decades as a method to adjust chain tension on bikes with hub-gears, and it has been very successful. For non-electric and bikes with front hub-motors, there is only man-power to put tension on the chain, which is easily resisted by the friction on the wheel-nuts to keep everything in place; however, crank motors can put 4 times the amount of tension on the chain, and the wheel nuts struggle to resist that. When they're overwhelmed, the wheel gets pulled forward on the chain/belt side and you lose tension. The engineers must have been too thick to figure that out.
The only thing you can do is tighten the nuts. It helps if the grip washer is sharp, and after they've slipped a few times, they can't grip as well, so maybe think about getting some new ones.
As I said, the design is poor. They should use proper horizontal drop-outs with adjusters on the axle, like you get on motorbikes. I see that they've modified that system on the latest models, so they must have seen the problem.
Can you show a picture of the drop-outs and the "adjusters" arrangement? Maybe it's not like I suggested.
A track bike chain tensioner might do the job.
They are designed for horizontal dropouts, but may stay in place on other types of dropouts when tightened.
www.wish.com
They are designed for horizontal dropouts, but may stay in place on other types of dropouts when tightened.
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Thanks folks, found stripped thread and loose fixing on brake causing wheel to move. Think I have fixed it, long ride tomorrow will tell !!
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