Bike great for 6 months now LCD claims no charge on charged battery, motor doesn’t work

[UphillBattle]

That's right. When blue and red are joined, the blue powers the controller. If the voltage drops in that condition, the controller is faulty. if it doesn't, it's the LCD.

Excellent: I’ll test that later when I’m home.

 

[UphillBattle]

That's right. When blue and red are joined, the blue powers the controller. If the voltage drops in that condition, the controller is faulty. if it doesn't, it's the LCD.

I’ve not replied in a while as I’ve not been able to get my head round the results I’ve gotten.

The colours on the spare JULET cable I have are different but I used the multimeter to identify which colours go the which pins and referred to the below diagram.

Twisting the cable attached to the 48V and Power Lock pins and then measuring against the ground produces over 50V. This would apparently mean that the LCD is at fault but I have tested using two of them, one having been kept aside for testing etc and they both show low/no power.

So I don’t know what to make of things at all - I just don’t believe that both displays are faulty in the same way.

I’ve also found sandy salt on the bike and both the chain and front suspension have seized up with rust on both, so I think some road salt has gotten at the bike and caused rapid rusting. Perhaps the cables have rust? The one time I got the bike working again was by unplugging then replugging the main Julet 1-5 cable from the controller - though it only lasted a short time before returning to low/no power. While it was working the LCD reported full battery and the bike performed at full power.

Im now considering ordering both replacement controller and cables from China, despite the test implying that the voltage coming down the wire is good.

 

[Nealh]

Bafang use the Higo make and KT uses the Julet make, you have to stick solely with one type as they are not wire sequenced the same (as seen above).
Its a pity they aren't sequenced the same as the connectors themselves are wholly compatible otherwise.

 

[UphillBattle]

Just a quick update in case anyone else has a similar problem: it was the wiring (the big chunky main cable that ends in the various connectors for the brakes, display etc). I ordered a new controller and wiring but the wiring alone was enough to fix it so the old controller is still in place. I had some pretty hard curves in the wiring before (because it was too long) this time I’ve left an unsightly loop inside the frame to reduce stress on the wiring.

Its been working for a couple of months now, no issues.

 

[Nealh]

These trunk cables aren't uncommon in causing issues.

 

[Andy-Mat]

Just a quick update in case anyone else has a similar problem: it was the wiring (the big chunky main cable that ends in the various connectors for the brakes, display etc). I ordered a new controller and wiring but the wiring alone was enough to fix it so the old controller is still in place. I had some pretty hard curves in the wiring before (because it was too long) this time I’ve left an unsightly loop inside the frame to reduce stress on the wiring.

Its been working for a couple of months now, no issues.

Thanks for the update, it might help out someone else in trouble.
Andy