Bike Repairs

[Tony1951]

My BBS01B was so badly set up, I almost sent it back demanding a refund. What really helps on hills and everywhere else, is setting "Keep current" to 100%. My throttle-less BBS01B conversion eats hills for breakfast.

Bafang Programming - Learn how to improve your Bafang mid-drive ebike - Edrivenet

Learn how to improve your Bafang mid-drive ebike. Reprogramming your Bafang mid-drive system can improve the usability and performance of your ebike a lot.

edrivenet.com

Bafang 8Fun USB Programming to TTL Cable Lead for BBS01 BBS02 BBSHD Mid Drive | eBay

<p>UK seller based in London</p><p>Fast delivery by Royal Mail </p><br /><p>Electric motor Programming Lead for BBS01, BBS02, BBS03/HD USB Cable</p><br /><p>Compatible with: BBS01, BBS02 and BBSHD motors</p><br /><p>It can use for adjusting the pharameters of the Bafang mid motor.</p><br...

www.ebay.co.uk

Software for PC:

E-Bike Conversion – Software

It’s been a while since I wrote the posts about my electric bicycle conversion project. The bicycle runs fine so far and I finally finished rewriting the software that configures its controll…

penoff.me

Android:

Speeed - Bafang BBS01/02 BBSHD - Apps on Google Play

Easy and clear programming tool for BAFANG BBS01 BBS02 BBSHD ebike motors

play.google.com

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That post is very useful. Thanks.

I am using a chromebook and have downloaded the app shown at the end of your comment. I will look into getting the usb cable you also referenced.

Probably a good idea to save the current settings before messing with anything, and the app appears to let you do that.

 

[guerney]

That post is very useful. Thanks.

I am using a chromebook and have downloaded the app shown at the end of your comment. I will look into getting the usb cable you also referenced.

Probably a good idea to save the current settings before messing with anything, and the app appears to let you do that.

The settings on my previous post gets rid of the jerkiness at the start of pedal assistance people complain about, makes U-turns easier, and there's rapid reduction of pedal assistance at 15.5mph.

I've got the PAS levels set like this or thereabouts, because I don't particularly want to draw more than 15A continuous current from my three year old battery, unless absolutely necessary. Set speed to 100% for every level, for the % of the current limit, which can be up to 20A. If you do plan on increasing the controller limit to 20A - best check your battery is capable first, with the battery experts.

If weird things happen, or things don't get written, write one parameter at a time - the worst that can happen is the bricking of your controller, necessitating the purchase of a new one.

 

[Tony1951]

That is useful too. Thanks.

I don't feel like I need to increase power levels, though I might experiment, but I am a wee bit concerned about the fact that as the bike came to me, if it is set on high levels of PAS (5 or 9 depending on how you set it on the display) it will motor on up to over 20 miles an hour - even on throttle alone. I know I am unlikely to get stopped as an old codger pedaling along at 15 or 16 miles an hour, but it isn't legal as it is, but could easily be made pretty much fully legal.

I reckon I would set the max speed in the controler NOT the display which is easily changed and therefore not legal.

To any observer in uniform, I ride it in a legal way always pedaling it and most always around 15 miles an hour unless going down hill.

 

[guerney]

Regarding making the throttle fully legal: Unfortunately, currently there's no way to limit the BBS01B's throttle to 6km/h, at least not on my controller. I could buy Delphi for a grand and change Penoff's source code, but I don't need a throttle. With "Keep current" at 100%, you might not need it as much either. Besides, the controller might simply ignore a 6km/h value.

 

[saneagle]

Regarding making the throttle fully legal: Unfortunately, currently there's no way to limit the BBS01B's throttle to 6km/h, at least not on my controller. I could buy Delphi for a grand and change Penoff's source code, but I don't need a throttle. With "Keep current" at 100%, you might not need it as much either. Besides, the controller might simply ignore a 6km/h value.

9 levels are too many. It's bad enough having to deal with nine gears, but at least you can use both fingers and thumb to work shifters. Your fingertips must be wearing down fast. How do you manage to steer?

 

[guerney]

9 levels are too many. it's bad enough having to deal with nine gears. Your fingertips must be wearing down fast. How do you manage to steer?

The thumb pad is between the legs of the display on the handlebar, I hardly ever touch it - I only ever use level 6, 1, and 0. Level 1 is for when I'm very low on battery and need to overcome motor resistance, plus a smidge. Level 0 is for keeping track of how many miles I'm pushing my out of juice bike home, logging average pusing speed and distance, seeing if a garage stop for sweets and caffeine increases pushing speed etc. The new 18A at Level 9 is to escape the grubby grasps of you and your unhinged gremlin mates chasing me on foot uphill. What do you lot want with my bike anyway? You hate mid-drives!

(Videographed when current limit was 15A [turn up volume])

 

[saneagle]

The thumb pad is between the legs of the display on the handlebar, I hardly ever touch it - I only ever use level 6, 1, and 0. Level 1 is for when I'm very low on battery and need to overcome motor resistance, plus a smidge. Level 0 is for keeping track of how many miles I'm pushing my out of juice bike home, logging average pusing speed and distance, seeing if a garage stop for sweets and caffeine increases pushing speed etc. The new 18A at Level 9 is to escape the grubby grasps of you and your unhinged gremlin mates chasing me on foot uphill. What do you lot want with my bike anyway? You hate mid-drives!

(Videographed when current limit was 15A [turn up volume])

Your crank motor would be handy for my fishing boat. It needs an anchor to keep it still while I'm trolling. It's the battery I'mreally after for the trolling motor. It's really useful for when I do the forum on my boat.I can troll much quicker with electric assist:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/COSTWAY-Telescopic-Indicator-Freshwater-Saltwater/dp/B0CLD3RNQX/ref=sr_1_6?dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.oU_dhM0K7HvlVqgS5EEZDWbCiuM1nMowGIOIzPue1UGva1vjT9pHRcx8NktaWP4ABLUegk3LSEr5thmUAT0Y1ak78GfCS7c_Z0TfY8Sm62ehbh3D5a91clZzHjZG3O1Doa1BP70zzG70vnSyeSU_3aVH1UaJqsUO1829PTAYwrHAR_34mJ6iZTkM0kYve2YDg4XZ5yRMD9KX-ejHFrx0NUARpJwTI5yriGhgldeKjsnglQ34QFW0lR5_4bOims2-rZRjp318bDp8JfQecw2u_pe6j1Br53VJFnn0lF-LXJA.1fWr68WjY7ecT0NJOuYz62jvO4t-Mz9Q6XQn5z7mulw&dib_tag=se&keywords=trolling%2Bmotor&qid=1710789383&sr=8-6&ufe=app_do%3Aamzn1.fos.d7e5a2de-8759-4da3-993c-d11b6e3d217f&th=1

 

[Tony1951]

Regarding making the throttle fully legal: Unfortunately, currently there's no way to limit the BBS01B's throttle to 6km/h, at least not on my controller. I could buy Delphi for a grand and change Penoff's source code, but I don't need a throttle. With "Keep current" at 100%, you might not need it as much either. Besides, the controller might simply ignore a 6km/h value.

Throttle is handy when pulling away - especially up hill. Apart from starting, I only use it on the worst hills. I am wary of over stressing the mosfets in the controller. If the bike is set at a high PAS level, the current flys up when I push that lever. I try to keep the duration of 500+ watts out as short as possible.

To be fair, as you say, I could just remove the throttle. The beauty of the mid drive is that you can always pedal in a low gear and just settle into a slow climb. I would need to up the current on the highest PAS level though. Pressing that throttle doubles the power draw on the motor over the max when pedalling.

 

[guerney]

I reckon I would set the max speed in the controler NOT the display which is easily changed and therefore not legal.

I don't think that's illegal, because it isn't the big switch Igor uses to re-animate Frankenstein's monster - it's not as if I can flick a switch to higher speed when being pursued by @saneagle and his gremlins. Stopping to fiddle about pressing more switches than one to increase top speed while squinting at the tiny characters on my display, would have got me mauled nad clawed, forced into installing a KT hub motor kit right there on the side of the road. Possibly while being timed.

To be fair, as you say, I could just remove the throttle. The beauty of the mid drive is that you can always pedal in a low gear and just settle into a slow climb. I would need to up the current on the highest PAS level though. Pressing that throttle doubles the power draw on the motor over the max when pedalling.

I miss using the throttle to swiftly lower gear before stopping, with the gears sensor switching off motor power perfectly as I did so, even when moving 7 gear changes down at once. "Keep current" at 100% will keep current high while you're pedalling, instead of dropping off a cliff. You have the option of 36V X 20A = 720W pedal assist - even on your larger wheeled bike (mine are 20"), that should conquer most hills, unless you're exceedingly pudgy or have unsuitable gearing for hills.

Throttle is handy when pulling away - especially up hill. Apart from starting, I only use it on the worst hills. I am wary of over stressing the mosfets in the controller. If the bike is set at a high PAS level, the current flys up when I push that lever. I try to keep the duration of 500+ watts out as short as possible.

Due to high BBS01 controller failure rates, the MOSFETS in the BBS01B have been uprated. Unless running on lithium fumes, 540W is available on my bike pretty much all the time, because I'm almost always using my Level 6. I've got a spare controller, and keep taxi fare handy, to fold my bike into. In case of various emergencies, I also carry a quick to attach and remove throttle in my mobile tookit. I've replaced the Allen bolt with a knurled. This throttle opens and clamps on, so there's no need to remove stuff from one side of the handlebar. Available on ebay.

 

[guerney]

Your crank motor would be handy for my fishing boat.

@Nealh's TSDZ2 would be better for that, high pedal Q factor, and his motor will fill with water faster.

I'mreally after for the trolling motor

That looks just the thing to mix remaining fragments of bike thief bodies I'm disolving in giant vats of acid - it's easier to flush away and impossible to identify scum, when blended into a smooth paste. Looks like it might last at least 6 vat mixes. Also removes limescale (houskeeping tip).

 

[AndyBike]

If its just mechanical tweaks or repairs, i urge you to give it a go yourself. It's not rocket science, and a book along with you tube will show you what to do

Or just you tube, as just about everything bike is on there, be it you want to tweak the gears, or strip down and rebuild a modern £1500 suss fork. You tube will show you how.

I learned how to maintain and service my own bike because i couldnt afford to have a shop do it, and when the choice is not ride or say what the hell and give it a go, you have to pick the latter,especially if the bike is your only form of transport.

 

[portals]

If its just mechanical tweaks or repairs, i urge you to give it a go yourself. It's not rocket science, and a book along with you tube will show you what to do

Or just you tube, as just about everything bike is on there, be it you want to tweak the gears, or strip down and rebuild a modern £1500 suss fork. You tube will show you how.

I learned how to maintain and service my own bike because i couldnt afford to have a shop do it, and when the choice is not ride or say what the hell and give it a go, you have to pick the latter,especially if the bike is your only form of transport.

When I decided I wanted an ebike I researched for months and glad I did as in the end I got the kit from down south so have some support.

I hadn't touched any bike mechanics since I was a student and given donor bike was an old Halfords MTB 20+ yrs I watched 100s of YT vids to workout how it all fitted together and what tools I needed, I did end buying quite a few, some of which have only ever been used once or twice...

YT is decent for this when you find the better channels, Park Tools for instance have loads of videos that are decent quality and you can trust them, watch out for the cowboy vids though, you can waste a lot of time on them.

 

[Nealh]

@Nealh's TSDZ2 would be better for that, high pedal Q factor, and his motor will fill with water faster.

My motor is WP and Q factor is as low as the BBS.

 

[saneagle]

My motor is WP and Q factor is as low as the BBS.

It would still make a good anchor for my trolling.

 

[Nealh]

BBS is heavier.

 

[Nealh]

Cheaper to use a heavy DD hub, plenty in the High Streets to use.

 

[Bikes4two]

Yes, diy mechanics is the way to go. I was about 12yrs old when my grandad showed me how to change the cotter pins on my first real bike and the journey for doing my own mechanics began and I have never needed to use a bike shop for repairs since, so go for it.

 

[Nealh]

I have always carried out my own bike repairs, never yet in my life time have I ever used a LBS for a repair. Tbh all bike maintenace is quite basic though one needs time and tools , a bike stand helps but not very well for step thrus.

 

[Benjahmin]

The self repair/maintenance is one of the things I love about bikes. It's why I go for a kit with quality generic parts, that can be sourced and replaced, rather than some locked down only our bit will fit cash eater.

 

[AndyBike]

Although i do 90% of the tasks,and 100% of all the small, basic,day to day type repairs, tinkering or upgrade swop overs, some jobs are best left to the professionals.
That is if you can actually find a professional bike mechanic, and not some shop type who knows what they are doing to some extent for the majority of modern standard bike repairs, but have no real professional qualifications plus decades worth of experience across the wide ranging subject.

Theres only one person I will leave a bike with, and another who only does wheels.
Bike mechanic i go to is one of the best in the industry, who was picked as Shimanos mechanic at the Olympics with TeamGB and has every tool known to man.

The wheel guy is Big Al. probably one of the best wheel builders in Scotland. His shop coffee* is the stuff of legends(Or nightmares).

* Never actually drink it. sip at it and smile, but first chance you get pour it down the sink.
It has the colour and consistency of crude oil and the taste of road tar. Adding any amount of milk does nothing, it just swallows it up and remains black as midnight.

Al in his wheel emporium.