I`ve noticed a couple of times when vehicles have not been aware that I`m stopping inc when my wife and I are out together short of reverting back to the days of hands signals I wanted an answer. Onmebike put me onto these New Bicycle Bike Led Rear Brake Tail Light Lamp 3 Leds on eBay (end time 23-Mar-10 16:48:27 GMT)
OK, no problem fitting them as the bracket they come with is pretty good at finding an anchor point. Fitting the sprung loaded make and break sensor to a suitable spot again no problem as long as you have cable brakes(as we all do)
Problem! unless you have your brake pads adjusted right up against the rim then in general the sprung loaded sensor comes to abutment before you can get full pressure on the brakes. Some fiddling with positioning the sensor made things better but in a real emergency stop when you put a lot of pressure on the brake lever the abutment still prevented full pressure on the rims. Made several attempts to add a rubber/foam spacer between the sensor and the cable stops but still not satisfactory.
Chatting with Tony(Onmebike) he suggested splicing the two wires from the back brake light( that is also a normal rear light BTW via a switch)into my rear brake motor cut off wires
and he is right, when you put your brakes on the the micro switch in the brake lever actually makes contact rather than what I thought it was doing and breaking contact.
As it`s only one wire that the brake light works on and even when mounted on the frame the light assembly is insulated via the plastic case. It works a treat without affecting the braking power of the bike
Soldering was never my strong point but faced with splicing the wires and not wanting to actually cut the micro switch wires I did as Onmebike suggested and purchased a decent reel of solder that had a slightly lower melting point + prefluxed and using a decent soldering iron from Maplins the job was a breeze.
OK! you might say that a stop light isn`t required on a bike but that`s not the point of the exercise, if you feel that you and others safety might be bettered by adding something then how bad.
Now I don`t have to worry about my other half hitting me from behind when I`m out for taking pictures and see the perfect shot and slam on the anchors.
OK, no problem fitting them as the bracket they come with is pretty good at finding an anchor point. Fitting the sprung loaded make and break sensor to a suitable spot again no problem as long as you have cable brakes(as we all do)
Problem! unless you have your brake pads adjusted right up against the rim then in general the sprung loaded sensor comes to abutment before you can get full pressure on the brakes. Some fiddling with positioning the sensor made things better but in a real emergency stop when you put a lot of pressure on the brake lever the abutment still prevented full pressure on the rims. Made several attempts to add a rubber/foam spacer between the sensor and the cable stops but still not satisfactory.
Chatting with Tony(Onmebike) he suggested splicing the two wires from the back brake light( that is also a normal rear light BTW via a switch)into my rear brake motor cut off wires
As it`s only one wire that the brake light works on and even when mounted on the frame the light assembly is insulated via the plastic case. It works a treat without affecting the braking power of the bike
Soldering was never my strong point but faced with splicing the wires and not wanting to actually cut the micro switch wires I did as Onmebike suggested and purchased a decent reel of solder that had a slightly lower melting point + prefluxed and using a decent soldering iron from Maplins the job was a breeze.
OK! you might say that a stop light isn`t required on a bike but that`s not the point of the exercise, if you feel that you and others safety might be bettered by adding something then how bad.
Now I don`t have to worry about my other half hitting me from behind when I`m out for taking pictures and see the perfect shot and slam on the anchors.