Carrera e subway

[g1nga]

I have a Carrera E subway with the SR Suntour Hesc rear hub motor, the battery and screen were stolen so I replaced the battery with a Hailong 36v and a generic controller, pas sensor and screen, this one:

24V 36V 48V 250W 350W E-bike Motor sin escobillas controlador Universal G51 Color LCD Display Set para bicicleta eléctrica Scooter - AliExpress 18

Smarter Shopping, Better Living! Aliexpress.com

es.aliexpress.com

Everything works well now, well almost with the exception that I get an E7 error on the screen, the motor work perfectly, I have just got back from a 30km ride. Could it be that the controller is 350w and the motor is 250w? didn't think that would matter. also have the amps set to 12 for the motor not the battery (20ah) is that correct?

I get the error in sensor and sensorless mode.

Does anyone have any ideas?

Thanks.

 

[saneagle]

I have a Carrera E subway with the SR Suntour Hesc rear hub motor, the battery and screen were stolen so I replaced the battery with a Hailong 36v and a generic controller, pas sensor and screen, this one:

24V 36V 48V 250W 350W E-bike Motor sin escobillas controlador Universal G51 Color LCD Display Set para bicicleta eléctrica Scooter - AliExpress 18

Smarter Shopping, Better Living! Aliexpress.com

es.aliexpress.com

Everything works well now, well almost with the exception that I get an E7 error on the screen, the motor work perfectly, I have just got back from a 30km ride. Could it be that the controller is 350w and the motor is 250w? didn't think that would matter. also have the amps set to 12 for the motor not the battery (20ah) is that correct?

I get the error in sensor and sensorless mode.

Does anyone have any ideas?

Thanks.

If your battery is 36v, you can go as high as 20A quite safely. If it's 48v, 15A is safe. You can probably go another 2A above those without any problem, but I'm not sure whether that would cause wear to the nylon gears. Motors don't have power. They've no idea what they are and neither does the controller. The controller sends the power and the motor does its best to convert it into motion.

 

[Baz the balloon man]

I done something similar some time ago with an older Carrera Vulcan pre 2022 model .

I used the YOSE 18Amp I think controller the one used for 350W kit .

It worked very well no errors except when I put the thumb throttle on full from standstill .

In the end just left it as with help on here we could not sort it but it was a minor issue as the combination of the older Suntours rear hub and the Controller worked very well on the bike a lot better that Carrera. Components.

 

[g1nga]

Thanks for the replies, I think I'll try a different controller. It's annoying me not being able to see how far I've travelled .

Is it normal for a new battery (hailong 36v) to need a few charges before they last a little longer? I only managed around 18 miles from the first charge all on flat ground.

 

[Sparksandbangs]

My 16Ah 36V gives me just shy of 40 miles. Of course it depends entirely on how you cycle , the weight you are carrying, the assist level.

 

[Sparksandbangs]

Everyone here is going to advise you to get a sinewave KT controller. I started with one from another manufacturer but no matter what I tried it wouldn't work properly. Switched to KT and it worked straight away with a few tweaks of the settings.

 

[g1nga]

The only issue I have with buying a KT controller is that I'm unsure if the E07, motor error I'm getting now is related to the motor or the controller. I've done around 30 miles on the bike with no issues so I'm leaning towards a problem with the controller.

The only other issue I'm having is that I had to half the wheel diameter to get the speedo to read correctly, no other changes in the settings would correct the speed error. I'm not sure if they're related.

 

[matthewslack]

Thanks for the replies, I think I'll try a different controller. It's annoying me not being able to see how far I've travelled .

Is it normal for a new battery (hailong 36v) to need a few charges before they last a little longer? I only managed around 18 miles from the first charge all on flat ground.

If your new setup is speed limited to 25km/h, then it should not be possible to drain a new 720Wh (36v x 20Ah) battery in 18 miles. 40Wh per mile? No chance.

A new battery in good order should work right out of the box to full capacity, if fully charged beforehand.

Either the battery is not right, or there is a fault with the bike (how does it ride with power off?). Dragging brakes?

Edit: crossed with above post. That settings issue might mean speed is not capped at 25km/h, which can greatly increase energy consumption.

 

[g1nga]

It is limited to 25kmh, no brake dragging etc it rides perfectly without the motor. I'm a retired bike mechanic who refused to learn about the ebike

 

[matthewslack]

It is limited to 25kmh, no brake dragging etc it rides perfectly without the motor. I'm a retired bike mechanic who refused to learn about the ebike

I'd be concerned about the battery then.

You could set up a capacity test since it is a simple two wire battery, using a cheap Wh meter, a suitable load and monitor voltage until 33V or so. With a fuse in the circuit of course.

For example (not a recommendation, you'll find cheaper versions)

Digital DC Watt Meter 12v 24v 48v Voltage Current Battery Monitor Solar Power | eBay UK

Solar Panels & Kits. Energy Monitoring. Victron Energy. Ideal for car, solar power system, or general battery monitoring. All electricity should be switched off prior to ANY electrical work being carried out.

www.ebay.co.uk

A big resistor, or mains resistive heater can provide a suitable load. 2kW at 230V is 8.7 ohms, which 36V can push just over 4A through. Use 1kW for about 2A.

 

[g1nga]

Well, I'm out on it today and have done 8 miles so far and it seems to be lasting well at the moment, my screen has 5 bars and it hasn’t dropped down a bar yet. I'll update when I'm back.

 

[esuark]

17:42 not back yet hope he`s OK

 

[g1nga]

Still out and about, there "may" have been pubs on my route

 

[g1nga]

Soooo, 35 kms later and I'm back, I was out with a friend who has a 'factory' btwin bike with very similar specs, both bikes did well, there were a few long uphill climbs and on our return we both had similar battery life remaining, so I'm happy with that.

On reflection though a shake down run while on holiday in Portugal probably wasn't the best idea, at least the ciders were cold

Now onto the fixing the E07 message

 

[saneagle]

Now onto the fixing the E07 message

Try disconnecting the hall sensors, then try sensorless mode to see if the problem goes away. Some dual mode controllers always check the hall sensor connector at start up.

 

[g1nga]

Try disconnecting the hall sensors, then try sensorless mode to see if the problem goes away. Some dual mode controllers always check the hall sensor connector at start up.

I've tried both, it made no difference.

 

[saneagle]

I've tried both, it made no difference.

Motor defect (07) is normally high current through the phase wires because of a blown MOSFET, short in the motor cable or burnt motor. Some controllers measure the current on the three phases separately. Maybe it's seeing an imbalance. Is the motor smooth running? Does the code come as soon as you switch on or when you first ask for the motor to give power?

 

[g1nga]

The motor seems to run perfectly, I've not had an issue in around 60 miles of use. The error comes up as soon as it's turned on.