Carrera vengeance ebyke mk2

[petemk]

Bought this byke 3 months ago second hand, told had only covered 20 miles, in brand new condition, hit a problem on the byke got the controller module and connectors wet, as they are house in the bottom of the frame where water goes up the frame and into the electrics, what a crap design,
Changed the torque sensor, control module, display and display cable and rehouse all the electrics in a plastic casing on the frame that rises up to the handle bar stem, after all that the power cuts out when you reach around 7 to 9 mph,
Has any one with this model gone back to the original mk1 vengeance cadense sensor, I've run out of ideas, appreciate any help,
Regards mk pete
Milton keynes
.

 

[snafu]

Sorry, can't help with your problem unfortunately (I have an early 2018 Vengeance). But I completely agree about the battery/controller housing. Why the hell they didn't put the controller at the other end of the cradle therefore putting the controller at the highest point is beyond me.

TTFN
John.

 

[vfr400]

Bought this byke 3 months ago second hand, told had only covered 20 miles, in brand new condition, hit a problem on the byke got the controller module and connectors wet, as they are house in the bottom of the frame where water goes up the frame and into the electrics, what a crap design,
Changed the torque sensor, control module, display and display cable and rehouse all the electrics in a plastic casing on the frame that rises up to the handle bar stem, after all that the power cuts out when you reach around 7 to 9 mph,
Has any one with this model gone back to the original mk1 vengeance cadense sensor, I've run out of ideas, appreciate any help,
Regards mk pete
Milton keynes
.

Can you show some pictures? I thought the controller was in the bottom of the battery receiver, like on the Crossfire and Vulcan. Have they changed that too in the mk2 version.

It would have been better to have taken the opportunity to change the controller to a different one with a conventional PAS, then you would have the opportunity to fit a throttle and set your own speed limit.

 

[Edward Elizabeth]

On the 2.0 versions of all Carreras the controller is in a comparment built into the base of the downtube.

The entry hole for the wiring is higher up than the exit hole from the battery holder, so significant amounts of water won't get in unless it's been jetwashed or somesuch - it won't run uphill on its own.

The controllers themselves are encapsulated in PU and are impervious to water. The controller compartment cover doesnt even have a gasket, because it doesn't need one. Any mositure that may have made its way in is unlikely to be responsible for the problem.

The fault clearly lies with one of the components you haven't replaced. You say you've replaced the controller and torque sensor, that leaves only motor, the display or the wiring. There is the battery to consider, which does more than simply provide a +ve and -ve - it has its own electronics and 'handhakes' and communicates with the controller on the 2.0 models.

Patience and a multimeter will eliminate the wiring. That leaves only the display battery and motor, and they only real way to test them is by substitution.

NB, are the items you have replaced new or used? If they're used, did they definitely function beforehand? Are they identical part numbers to the originals? If theyre new theres an outside chance one of the other may be faulty - not terribly likely, but not totally unheard of.

I see you're in MK. As a 2.0 it'll be under 2 years old and still covered by the warranty. Halfords a Rooksley actually aren't that bad with their cycles, so I'd be inclined to take it in and let them sort it.

 

[Nealh]

The Op is a second owner so unless the warrant is transferable it may not be a cheap option to take it to Halfrauds for repair.

 

[Edward Elizabeth]

The receipt won't state the name.

Nothing in law that compels a consumer to produce a receipt when exercising their rights, so at the very least I'd chance my arm and try. The worst that can happen is they say no and he's no worse off than before.

I'd also be suspicious about the 20 mile claim. The handbook advised a process for setting the battery indicator into a mode that shows how many times it has been charged.

 

[petemk]

Can you show some pictures? I thought the controller was in the bottom of the battery receiver, like on the Crossfire and Vulcan. Have they changed that too in the mk2 version.

It would have been better to have taken the opportunity to change the controller to a different one with a conventional PAS, then you would have the opportunity to fit a throttle and set your own speed limit.

Thanks for your reply,
On my vengeance the latest model the controller and electric connections are mounted in a alloy prefabricated box welded to the bottom end of the frame just above the bottom bracket and where the 2 alloy byke frames meets underneath is a opening for water to enter, bad design, the controller burnt out, after inspection and removing the black plastic cover 1 third of the printed circuit board had no up silicon on it and that part of the board had signs of burning,
I changed the controller same batch number, changed torque sensor with new,
Changed display and display cable, now the byke starts and runs but as I said power cuts out when you get to 7 to 9 mph,
As the byke is very new the battery is outputting 41volts, the hub motor runs, so my thinking is that changing to a different controller, cadense sensors, and display, and just use the original battery and hub, Halford just want to replace just about every part on the byke,
Regards Pete.

 

[petemk]

The receipt won't state the name.

Nothing in law that compels a consumer to produce a receipt when exercising their rights, so at the very least I'd chance my arm and try. The worst that can happen is they say no and he's no worse off than before.

I'd also be suspicious about the 20 mile claim. The handbook advised a process for setting the battery indicator into a mode that shows how many times it has been charged.

I did take it halfords Milton Keynes they said the warrantee was not transferable, the had the byke for an accessment and reeled off nearly every part of the byke had to be replaced, and no parts in stock, would have been cheaper to buy another byke, I paid £800 for it working OK,

 

[Nealh]

For about £70 quid or so one could replace the electrics with better generic stuff.

 

[Edward Elizabeth]

I did take it halfords Milton Keynes they said the warrantee was not transferable, the had the byke for an accessment and reeled off nearly every part of the byke had to be replaced, and no parts in stock, would have been cheaper to buy another byke, I paid £800 for it working OK,

So help us out, what component(s) did they say was at fault?

I think Nealh is likely correct. It may be easier to simply start again with a new controller and display. The HESC (or probably HESC+ on a 2.0) motors are pretty good, so it would be worth mating it to a new controller. Because the battery is 'smart'and communicates with the controller (and charger) you may need to use a different battery as well, although there is no harm in seeing it the battery will simply let you take the 36v feed without 'talking' to it.

 

[The aged cyclist]

I am sorry to write this but I got a Carrera Crossfire (same e components) in April and it had to go back to Halfords three times within a month. Same problems as above. After the third time I said I was rejecting the bike and they simply said yes. I got a Raleigh Felix and no problems in 3000 miles.

 

[Edward Elizabeth]

I am sorry to write this but I got a Carrera Crossfire (same e components) in April and it had to go back to Halfords three times within a month. Same problems as above. After the third time I said I was rejecting the bike and they simply said yes. I got a Raleigh Felix and no problems in 3000 miles.

And I have covered 4500 miles on my Carrera since september without a hiccup.

So what?

That doesn't help Pete, does it?

 

[petemk]

For about £70 quid or so one could replace the electrics with better generic stuff.

 

[The aged cyclist]

And I have covered 4500 miles on my Carrera since september without a hiccup.

So what?

That doesn't help Pete, does it?

sorry for trying to help and my post not meeting your high standards. This was my first post in this forum and in my naive way I though this was a friendly forum.

 

[petemk]

IMG_20210224_114622.jpg

 

[vfr400]

IMG_20210224_114622.jpg

That's not the standard 9-pin connector. To use a standard system, you'd have to cut the cable somewhere and do some soldering. Easiest would be at the controller end so that you don't have to buy a motor cable.

 

[Nealh]

No use cutting the motor connector off when it is it different as you will have an unsightly option which may not be very good at being water resistant. As vrf has mentioned far better to solder the opposite ends direct to the controller phase and hall wires or if you want and need a connectors for the controller swap the crappy phase bullets for an MT60 tri connector and add a dj7061a-2.8-11 connector to the hall wires.