Clutching at straws for Cyclamatic?

[Fordulike]

I took a peek at the controller contained within a box under the crank. The box is welded as part of the frame and contains all the wiring too.
I didn't expect it to be branded or anything special and i was right.
It does have a label on it with some specs and a serial number.
If anyone can point me in the right direction to any more info on this controller, then that would be great. Pessimistically i'm not going to hold my breath though

24v system
Max 14A
Rate 7A
Low Voltage 21v
Throttle adjust 1.2v - 4.4v
Serial number: WS X09050019870

Can someone explain what the throttle adjust figures mean please.
Also does a max of 14A mean that i shouldn't run it with a battery of more than 14A capacity, or is this the max it will provide to the motor whatever the battery capacity?

 

[NRG]

The throttle adjust voltage is the variable voltage range output when the throttle is operated. The 14Amp max is the maximum amperage the controller will allow to be drawn from the battery, your 14Ah battery is fine as even at a 14amp draw it would take 1hour to fully discharge the battery if healthy and fully charged. Also known as a 1C discharge rate.

 

[Fordulike]

Thanks NRG.
The battery on the bike at the moment is 9AH.
Would i be able to use a 20AH with no problem? Will the 14A controller only draw a max of 14A or would a 20AH battery cause it to be damaged?
I'm still a little confused with this amps business relating to bikes

 

[NRG]

Thanks NRG.
The battery on the bike at the moment is 9AH.
Would i be able to use a 20AH with no problem? Will the 14A controller only draw a max of 14A or would a 20AH battery cause it to be damaged?
I'm still a little confused with this amps business relating to bikes

20Ah, yes no problem, the larger the better in fact....larger = increased range and less strain on the battery as typically the actual amount of power used in relation to the battery capacity will be less for a given distance.

The Ah rating is an indication of the battery capacity, so 20Ah means in theory it could supply up to 20amps for 1 hour or 2 amps for 10 hours. Your controller will only draw a maximum of 14amps (in use it averages out less than this) so it would take 1.43 hours to drain you 20Ah battery at a constant 14amp draw.

Max current draw is going to happen if pulling away on power only from standstill or when climbing a hill. On the move and on flat terrain the draw will be much less.

 

[flecc]

I'm afraid the lower cost e-bikes often integrate their controllers like this, either welded or glued onto the frames, not having fasteners and mountings keeps the costs down I suppose.
.

 

[Mussels]

I'm still a little confused with this amps business relating to bikes

It's not helped by more than one company quoting battery capacity in A rather than Ah, you seem to have it right.

 

[Fordulike]

The controller is a seperate one housed in it's own aluminium box, just like the ones you see on eBay and the like.
This itself is stored inside another casing on the bottom of the crank. It's all welded really well and looks pretty good for a cheap bike.
The controller is removable, but i doubt i could upgrade due to a better one taking up more space and not fitting inside. Plus heat dispersion.
The more i look closer at this bike, the more i think how well it's built.
For the price of course.

 

[flecc]

That sounds like a very good mounting, good protection for the controller, but as you say, possibly difficult to upgrade. Generic controllers do often seem to be many times the size of e-bike make-specific ones.
.

 

[Old Timer]

I took a peek at the controller contained within a box under the crank. The box is welded as part of the frame and contains all the wiring too.
I didn't expect it to be branded or anything special and i was right.
It does have a label on it with some specs and a serial number.
If anyone can point me in the right direction to any more info on this controller, then that would be great. Pessimistically i'm not going to hold my breath though

24v system
Max 14A
Rate 7A
Low Voltage 21v
Throttle adjust 1.2v - 4.4v
Serial number: WS X09050019870

Can someone explain what the throttle adjust figures mean please.
Also does a max of 14A mean that i shouldn't run it with a battery of more than 14A capacity, or is this the max it will provide to the motor whatever the battery capacity?

Is the bike the power plus MTB? or the folder? and are you looking to change it because it`s broken?

 

[Fordulike]

It's the Power Plus MTB.
No, the controller's not broken. I was considering a few things actually.
Upgrading it with a model from the same family but able to provide slighty more amps than 14. A straight swap so i'm not messing about soldering different connectors on.
Eventually connect a 9 cell Ping battery, therefore i need to know what the upper cutout voltage is.
Obviously changing both will possibly take the motor over it's limits of operation, as i know nothing about it apart from it's 24v.
But i'll have fun trying

 

[Old Timer]

It's the Power Plus MTB.
No, the controller's not broken. I was considering a few things actually.
Upgrading it with a model from the same family but able to provide slighty more amps than 14. A straight swap so i'm not messing about soldering different connectors on.
Eventually connect a 9 cell Ping battery, therefore i need to know what the upper cutout voltage is.
Obviously changing both will possibly take the motor over it's limits of operation, as i know nothing about it apart from it's 24v.
But i'll have fun trying

On our trip out today my wife dug out her power plus for a change and commented how enjoyable the trip was (around 12 miles) but I was aware that 24V can`t really compete with 36V and thats why she bought herself the Synergie Breeze. If it was to be her only e bike I would have by now fitted a larger capacity battery like a 15amp or maybe a 20amp which would have had no adverse affect on the controller I`m sure. It is a different animal to the 36V Breeze but as they say" variety is the spice of life"

Dave