So far I have not yet tried the New Controller just been changing plugs on it for now to match mine. I tried that MOSFET tests held black probe on black wire from controller and 1st tried green Phase wire with red Probe But never got a reading at all on all 3. the meter just stayed on 1. thats on 200 ohm mode tried same on diode it was counting up numbers like 1.5 etc but after a while just went to OL again I got fed up in the end so may try new controller soon.
connector help
- Thread starter billyboya
- Start date
Nealh would you know where I can get one of these in the UK black if possible as I have tried Ebay Amazon but no one do them unless there is somewhere
its a Deans Connector Bulkhead
But I'm in the UK and that's where I saw it too same web page as you. I dont want to pay shipping costs
It’s ok as I have now ordered it from that web site as no where in Uk who has that type. It wasn’t too bad with shipping only £8.41
tried new controller today still no good so it looks like inspecting inside back wheel for defective or loose wires
The issue might be a motor Hall, have you tested them with a meter yet ?
It is simple one powers up the controller and sets the meter to 20v, Black probe to Black Hall wire and Red probe to the Blue, Yellow & Green Hall wire. With each of the three wire tests turn the wheel by hand slowly backwards, one should see the hall switching 5v - 0v - 5v and so on. if the 5v stays static then the Hall is toast, if it doesn't measure 5v it is toast.
It is simple one powers up the controller and sets the meter to 20v, Black probe to Black Hall wire and Red probe to the Blue, Yellow & Green Hall wire. With each of the three wire tests turn the wheel by hand slowly backwards, one should see the hall switching 5v - 0v - 5v and so on. if the 5v stays static then the Hall is toast, if it doesn't measure 5v it is toast.
Hi don't I do black probe to red wire then as when I did black probe to black then red probe to red wire it said 4.27v and when I turned back wheel slowly nothing happened it still kept at 4.27v
black to blue = 3.24v numbers moving down \
black to yellow= 3.27v numbers moving down > when moving wheel
black to green = 3.26v numbers moving down /
It looks then I am going to have to check wires in the wheel, But I dont have a clue how to do that. I think you need a gear puller to remove the crankcase sprocket side or where the wires go into wheel ignore that other wire in yellow as thats what someone fitted which I will remove later
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Black to Red are the main 5v voltage supplies to the three Halls, the main Red 5v is the track to supply 5v to the three halls. One won't see any voltage differing between Black and Red.
The three coloured Halls should show 5v and then down to 0v when switching, if they are only showing 3 odds volts then they look like they need replacing.
I recently tested my BBS as it failed again. Blue and Green showed 5v, Yellow only 2.76v so new Halls are coming so I can replace at least one first.
The three coloured Halls should show 5v and then down to 0v when switching, if they are only showing 3 odds volts then they look like they need replacing.
I recently tested my BBS as it failed again. Blue and Green showed 5v, Yellow only 2.76v so new Halls are coming so I can replace at least one first.
There's a good chance that your hall sensors are okay and that your meter is averaging ~3v due to a slow refresh rate. There will probably be 46 hall sensor pulses per wheel revolution, so be sure to turn your motor VERY SLOWLY while measuring.
I will try again later as its so dam hard trying to hold probes onto wires, as they so thin, I have now ordered some test leads with crocodile clip ends, I did order a packed of croc clips but too dam big to fit pointed probs ends
btw what do hall sensors look like inside the wheel
just found these 2 videos on YouTube about removing the hub etc and see where sensors are now just a 3 prong chip thing
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He should still see 5v on the halls before slowly turning the wheel as that is the voltage the rail should supply.
Well I have managed to remove opposite side to flywheel it came off so easy when I banged it on concrete, but cant get the motor out of the rim part I removed Allen nuts on crankcase side but think I will need a gear puller for that not 100% if I am right. I have ordered one as they not expensive.
Is there a special tool to remove the flywheel
I would like to remove this old drum as I would like to fit new drum which came with brakes But will it come off by banging those cut outs on outside as its on a thread
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