My new controller has two live connections for the battery. Can anyone tell me what he thinner one is for? No manual .Described as electric lock line. What does that mean?
Controller connections
- Thread starter HughMorris
- Start date
Without a picture, it's difficult to say, but I'm going to guess that it's the ignition wire that powers the controller's pcb and sensors. If it is the ignition wire, it needs to be connected to the battery positive along with the thick red. Most controllers had that wire before we had control panels. If you put a switch on it, you can leave the battery permanently connected and use the switch to switch the controller on and off. Those throttles with the red button are perfect for that or you can use any switch you want as it only handles low power (100mA).
I've been watching a you tube video on this which clearly shows both switch wires being connected to both positive wires. Should one not be to the negative? I can't get the motor to work by the way.
The ignition wire is just that, it uses a switch simply open and close the voltage supply at low current. Only needs to be on the red v+ side.
The black wire gnd /v- is needed for circuit continuation, the switch doesn't require circuit continuation as it is just an interrupter.
The black wire gnd /v- is needed for circuit continuation, the switch doesn't require circuit continuation as it is just an interrupter.
The thick red battery wire is not actually part of the controller. It goes directly to the motor, but is blocked by the mosfets in the controller. All the controller does is open and close the mosfets like gates to let the power through to the motor.
The controller itself takes its power from the thin red wire, so that has to be connected to the battery positive, normally through a switch. The battery voltage in that thin wire is cut down by a big resistor, then it goes to the 12v regulator, which powers the mosfets to open and close them. A branch of the 12v goes to the 5v regulator, which supplies power for the controller's CPU, the throttle, pedal sensor, speed sensor, motor hall sensors and brake sensors.
The thick black negative battery wire is a common ground. The main branch goes to the mosfets and a small branch from it goes to the controller.
The controller itself takes its power from the thin red wire, so that has to be connected to the battery positive, normally through a switch. The battery voltage in that thin wire is cut down by a big resistor, then it goes to the 12v regulator, which powers the mosfets to open and close them. A branch of the 12v goes to the 5v regulator, which supplies power for the controller's CPU, the throttle, pedal sensor, speed sensor, motor hall sensors and brake sensors.
The thick black negative battery wire is a common ground. The main branch goes to the mosfets and a small branch from it goes to the controller.
OK thanks. I'm sure I've wired it up correctly but the motor won't run. I've checked with a multimeter and now convinced the controller is a dud.
It's very rare for controllers to give problems unless you misconnect something. Show some photos of what you've done.
If you've connected the ignition wire correctly, you should be able to measure 5V between the red and black throttle, PAS or hall wires.
So am I right that positive wires, thick, thin and both on/off switch wires connect to the battery positive?
I don't think so, but that's not at all clear what you mean. Draw a picture. From the switch, one wire would go to the battery positive and the other to the ignition wire so that you can switch the power on and off to the ignition wire. You don't need a switch if you have a switch on your battery, in which case you join both the thin and thick wires to the battery positive.
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