Conversion kits which battery to buy ?

[izzywhit]

I bought a 26 inch 24 conversion kit from a chinese source on amazon.
The bike I converted was an Izip with Lead acid battery and motor driving a gear on back wheel which was very noisy and heavy.
The conversion works but the fully charged battery is struggling after only 5 or 6 miles even though it measures 24 volts and the power cuts out when climbing hills.
Would I need to use a lithium equivalent and would it deliver a higher output ?

 

[Nealh]

24v lithium yes, the difference will be night and day. Don't forget you will need a 24v/29.4 charger as lithium 24v 100% charge is 29.4v.

 

[izzywhit]

24v lithium yes, the difference will be night and day. Don't forget you will need a 24v/29.4 charger as lithium 24v 100% charge is 29.4v.

Thanks for your reply Nealh I'll have to buy a battery

 

[vfr400]

Before buying a battery, you need to look at your controller and see what current is written on it. You can't just buy any 24v battery. It needs to be able to supply at least the amount of the maximum current allowed by the controller. Ideally, you should aim for about 5 amps of headroom, so if the label says max current 15A, then you need a 20A battery, otherwise it might start cutting out again. Look at the listing of the battery for the maximum continuous current value.

Note that some controllers only have the rated current on the label, which is normally half the maximum, so you need to look for those two key words (rated and max) as well as the value.

 

[izzywhit]

Before buying a battery, you need to look at your controller and see what current is written on it. You can't just buy any 24v battery. It needs to be able to supply at least the amount of the maximum current allowed by the controller. Ideally, you should aim for about 5 amps of headroom, so if the label says max current 15A, then you need a 20A battery, otherwise it might start cutting out again. Look at the listing of the battery for the maximum continuous current value.

Note that some controllers only have the rated current on the label, which is normally half the maximum, so you need to look for those two key words (rated and max) as well as the value.

Okay thanks for that I will look into it.

 

[sjpt]

Before buying a battery, you need to look at your controller and see what current is written on it. You can't just buy any 24v battery. It needs to be able to supply at least the amount of the maximum current allowed by the controller. Ideally, you should aim for about 5 amps of headroom, so if the label says max current 15A, then you need a 20A battery, otherwise it might start cutting out again. Look at the listing of the battery for the maximum continuous current value.

Note that some controllers only have the rated current on the label, which is normally half the maximum, so you need to look for those two key words (rated and max) as well as the value.

Just a reminder: that's 20A (current delivery capability), NOT 20AH (capacity). The specs of batteries generally show the capacity AH value (or the WH value), but the current delivery value A that vfr is mentioning is often more difficult to find.