Could someone please explain to me why there are so few full suspension ebikes? I built my first one recently and it's pure joy to ride.
Griz
Griz
Could someone please explain 2
- Thread starter Grizzly Bear
- Start date
Apparently, pedalling full suspension bikes causes a proportion of the energy you put in to be lost when the suspension moves. Not a problem on an electric. I believe Flecc has some calculations on how much energy is wasted (I may be remembering incorrectly on that one).
Vikki.
Vikki.
My bad, didn't spot you'd said ebikes 
Suspension wouldn't bother my Wisper in power on demand usage but it would affect me on those times I sprint the bike to 20+ where there is no assistance. I've started doing that quite a bit to improve my fitness.
It would also affect me uphill when I have to put a lot more effort in.
Suspension wouldn't bother my Wisper in power on demand usage but it would affect me on those times I sprint the bike to 20+ where there is no assistance. I've started doing that quite a bit to improve my fitness.
It would also affect me uphill when I have to put a lot more effort in.
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The bikes under a grand only have "suspension" on them as a marketing image they are next to useless. You have to spend serious money for a proper suspension bike. Personally even when i had a period of mountain biking i still preferred the hard tail, the full suspension bike just never done it for me.
So in answer to your question i reckon a heavier e-bike will show up the deficiencies in the cheaper suspension bikes and therefore decent quality units would need to be used and that would increase the price rapidly.
So in answer to your question i reckon a heavier e-bike will show up the deficiencies in the cheaper suspension bikes and therefore decent quality units would need to be used and that would increase the price rapidly.
My downhill framed ebike uses a Horst Link rear suspension system that works beautifully, it does not "bob" therefore does not waste my peddaling input, this system could easily be copied by the Chinese manufacturers. I've had all hard tails up to now, going back on one after riding my full sus bike is not a pleasant experience. As far as weight and strength is concerned, downhill bikes are made for racing and are strong, also they are made of superior 7075 alloy. As far as price is concerned, my frame up build with a 48 volt A123 M1 battery pack, Mavic wheels, Hayes hydraulic brakes etc. cost me around £1500.
Stick the electric cost on there and it's going to be more like £2500-£3500 when a bespoke frame has been designed.
While I agree that a well designed suspension system like this is vastly superior to much of the rubbish on the market, the basic physics cannot be denied.
If a suspension absorbs upthrust, it also absorbs downthrust, the latter from pedal effort. A spring or damper is not unidirectional in function.
How much loss depends on many factors of course. A rider standing on the pedals with a very low cadence like 30 while hill climbing will suffer a huge percentage loss from each high energy downthrust. At the other extreme, an experienced sport rider using a cadence of 90 or more on the flat will suffer negligible loss.
Full recumbent riders are a special case of course, there being no pedal downthrust, while semi-recumbent riders will suffer a lower loss than a conventional bike rider.
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Well Tony, you should see the hills I've climbed on this, and it's only got the little Bafang on 48 volts at the moment. My new 500 watt Bafang BPM arrived last week, I will be building it in to a 24" DMR Backline rim as soon as I finish the battery box for my new bike.
I agree that a good e-bike and system works well in practice, which is also why I separated out the e-bikes from others in my article.
The trouble is that when the subject is fully gone into, the complexities are infinite. How bumpy a climb is can be a big influence, and the frequency and depth of bumps alters the suspension/no suspension argument balance.
Ultimately individual preference is what counts most. If intending to win the Tour de France, the inevitable losses means it has to be no suspension despite having to ride from 3400 to over 5000 kilometres* on some horrible roads including cobblestones. By contrast, riding up a steep poor surfaced hill on a mountain bike can benefit from the increased traction due to a good suspension maintaining tyre to road contact
*Route and length vary by year.
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The trouble is that when the subject is fully gone into, the complexities are infinite. How bumpy a climb is can be a big influence, and the frequency and depth of bumps alters the suspension/no suspension argument balance.
Ultimately individual preference is what counts most. If intending to win the Tour de France, the inevitable losses means it has to be no suspension despite having to ride from 3400 to over 5000 kilometres* on some horrible roads including cobblestones. By contrast, riding up a steep poor surfaced hill on a mountain bike can benefit from the increased traction due to a good suspension maintaining tyre to road contact
*Route and length vary by year.
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Especially if your pretended it was an unusual water bottle and threw it to one side as your changed it, hitting a spectator.I think they'd notice my battery!
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Especially if your pretended it was an unusual water bottle and threw it to one side as your changed it, hitting a spectator.
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£500 worth of A123 they'd be laughing!
Sorry I misread your post, I thought £1500 was for the donor bike without electrics.You lost me now!
I built the bike from a Brand X full suspension frame bought on offer from Chain Reaction Cycles, for the money it's one hell of a good bike frame. Go on their website and read the reviews, they are selling them for £375 now, the recommended price is about £700. It has the added bonus of no decals, which appeals to me.
I have a Hot chili DH full suspension frame which was picked up off ebay last year for .99p now thats a good deal, http://www.hot-chili.biz/Deutsch/Company/History/XRage2-1997-1998.jpg but have spent over 2000 pounds on SH bits to fit to it since then including.
Rock shock Triple crown suspension forks, maverick rims, hope bigun front hub, 2.50 off road tiers, manga hydrolick rim brakes, DNM rear air suspension both suspensions units are adjustable well on or off the road. 53t 42t chain-ring, 11/34 rear sprocket.
Crystallite 5304 motor,36-72volt Crystallite 35amp controller. cycle annalist, 72volt 20amp ping battery. LH twist and RH thumb throttles. the list gos on and still adding to it. its a fantastic machine to ride but needs a lot of maintenance with so many moving parts.
But i spend most of my time riding an old Raleigh sprinter steel frame cost 14 pounds, Golden motor 48volt ebay kit with no suspension 53t 42t chainring, 11/34 rear sprocket. with rear rack and saddle bags a lot lighter and a lot less maintenance,with next to no moving parts if you dont count the bearings. a good all round workhouse. which cost less than 600 pounds all-in.
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Hi Andy
you know what? I spend most of my time riding a hard tail Dirty Fiend with a 36 volt ping v2.5 and a little rear Bafang, I just love it to bits, it's so light. But it's really nice to jump on my best bike at the weekend, I also run a Crystalyte 5306 soon to be on 72 volts plus, I just love the big un, it's perfect for when I'm feeling a bit naughty, so illegal
you know what? I spend most of my time riding a hard tail Dirty Fiend with a 36 volt ping v2.5 and a little rear Bafang, I just love it to bits, it's so light. But it's really nice to jump on my best bike at the weekend, I also run a Crystalyte 5306 soon to be on 72 volts plus, I just love the big un, it's perfect for when I'm feeling a bit naughty, so illegal
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