Cyclamatic controller mod progression :)

[Fordulike]

I couldn't help tinkering with the Cyclamatic again and think I have taken the controller mod as far as I can go. That is without blowing something up
I do believe the battery contains Headway cells, although like a lot of Chinese products, might be copies. Therefore the battery should be pretty resilient.
Only time will tell, and to be honest i'm not bothered as it's well out of warranty.
The shunt wire used to have a little bit of extra solder on both ends, but now I have filled in a whole corner with solder.
On the road test it blew the 20 amp battery fuse, but after replacing it with a 25 amp one, it is now stable.
The results?
Yet more pulling power and grunt
I expect the total mileage on a full charge to decrease and my battery is getting on a bit anyway, but it's been a worth-while insight into how everything interacts with each other.

 

[alban]

Don't mean to be a nag and presume on your good graces Fordulike but we Cyclamatic owners (well 2 of us at least!) are very interested in what you've done and in a pictorial guide to the mod specifically for this ebike. Like 'Here's the battery fuse' simple stuff?! Any chance? Anything we do is our responsibility of course.

 

[NRG]

No disrespect, a pictorial guide is all well and good but if you need to know such basic things as where's the fuse is and how to take the controller apart maybe you should not be messing around with it? You'll need to be able to solder as well and ideally have some way of checking the battery current draw afterwards...

Here's a picture of shunt I modded quite a while back:

 

[flecc]

Don't mean to be a nag and presume on your good graces Fordulike but we Cyclamatic owners (well 2 of us at least!) are very interested in what you've done and in a pictorial guide to the mod specifically for this ebike. Like 'Here's the battery fuse' simple stuff?! Any chance? Anything we do is our responsibility of course.

Fordulike's pictorial instructions are now in the Technical Section on this link.

 

[Fordulike]

No disrespect, a pictorial guide is all well and good but if you need to know such basic things as where's the fuse is and how to take the controller apart maybe you should not be messing around with it? You'll need to be able to solder as well and ideally have some way of checking the battery current draw afterwards...

Here's a picture of shunt I modded quite a while back:

I see where you are coming from NRG, taking things apart and soldering isn't for everyone, and the fuse container actually has 'fuse' written on it
My guide does help with a few stumbling points, such as controller access and removal. Also, if the 3 screws on the side of the casing aren't removed first, then the circuit board may be damaged trying to pull it out.
I am aiming the guide at the more confident owners who have maybe had a little previous experience in soldering etc...
Maybe when things are posted in the technical section, a little header can be added for difficulty level i.e. NOVICE, CONFIDENT AND HARDCORE

 

[alban]

Thanks Fordulike.
Ah but we were all novices once. Better to learn from those that have done it than plunge in regardless - and on a cheap ebike! I may wait until the warranty is up but this mod may be the icing on the cake for what is a great intro ebike.

 

[Fordulike]

Thanks Fordulike.
Ah but we were all novices once. Better to learn from those that have done it than plunge in regardless - and on a cheap ebike! I may wait until the warranty is up but this mod may be the icing on the cake for what is a great intro ebike.

I did have to send the battery back a couple of times under warranty.
In hindsight, they probably only repaired what I do to the battery every now and then, so it was quicker to repair it myself than wait for a warranty repair.
The position of the battery vertically above the crank, means it gets some severe shocks (no pun intended) along rough ground.
Due to the amount of free space above the battery pack inside the casing, the pack bangs up and down inside the case.
This causes the odd electrical connection to break free, which then needs to be soldered back on.
I did a small mod by packing out the space to reduce the movement inside the case, but I take my bike on the very rough stuff, so I get the odd breakdown.

 

[Willin']

I did have to send the battery back a couple of times under warranty.
In hindsight, they probably only repaired what I do to the battery every now and then, so it was quicker to repair it myself than wait for a warranty repair.
The position of the battery vertically above the crank, means it gets some severe shocks (no pun intended) along rough ground.
Due to the amount of free space above the battery pack inside the casing, the pack bangs up and down inside the case.
This causes the odd electrical connection to break free, which then needs to be soldered back on.
I did a small mod by packing out the space to reduce the movement inside the case, but I take my bike on the very rough stuff, so I get the odd breakdown.

I've just returned my battery because of a loss of range and your post has got me thinking that something similar may be the problem with mine as I do nearly all my riding off road - not really, really rough stuff but certainly not tarmac. Mind you it went back on Monday and I haven't heard a dicky bird yet.

 

[Fordulike]

I've just returned my battery because of a loss of range and your post has got me thinking that something similar may be the problem with mine as I do nearly all my riding off road - not really, really rough stuff but certainly not tarmac. Mind you it went back on Monday and I haven't heard a dicky bird yet.

Sportshq are normally pretty good, although an e-mail to see how things are progressing wouldn't hurt.