Cyclotricity help please

[Bonehead33]

So I've got a 1000w kit, 48v battery and LCD controller from cyclotricity.
Worked fine until out of warranty and now LCD won't turn on.
Checked wiring, all good, checked battery, 53v into controller when on.
Cyclotricity said its a controller issue.
Paid for new controller, wired it in and now the blue battery power light illuminates when in off position for around a minute when controller is connected but disconnect controller and it turns off.
Blue battery power light stays on when depressed and battery is switched on.
I'm baffled. Any help gratefully appreciated!

 

[vfr400]

Those battery lights sometimes get a mind of their own. use a meter to figure out whether the battery is switched on or off.

 

[Bonehead33]

Those battery lights sometimes get a mind of their own. use a meter to figure out whether the battery is switched on or off.

To be clear it's the power button light not the state of charge lights. Yes, battery off is 0v battery on output is 53v. Driving me mad!

 

[vfr400]

To be clear it's the power button light not the state of charge lights. Yes, battery off is 0v battery on output is 53v. Driving me mad!

That's the only blue light I know.

 

[Bonehead33]

Help anyone?

 

[vfr400]

Help with what? Cut the wires on the blue light if it annoys you.

 

[Bonehead33]

Help with what? Cut the wires on the blue light if it annoys you.

Help with my original post!

 

[cyclebuddy]

I'm struggling to understand your problem too. You say...

Blue battery power light stays on when depressed and battery is switched on.

Right, okay. That's expected. And...

...the blue battery power light illuminates when in off position for around a minute...

Well, it would do. The controller has (one or more) pretty beefy capacitors to store energy to smooth and account for surges. That's what capacitors do; they store energy.

An LED uses a miniscule amount of energy to light. So you switch off, and the LED stays lit for as long as it takes those capacitor(s) to discharge their stored energy. Your e-bike charger LED does exactly the same if there's any energy left in the smoothing capacitors when you disconnect it.

So where is the problem? If the LED really bothers you, as VFR says, cut the LED wire(s), or add a bleed resistor to drain that energy faster.

 

[Bonehead33]

Sorry I thought it was clear - the LCD display won't turn on therefore nothing works. Without the (handlebar mounted) LCD display unit being functional the whole system is dead and won't switch on.

If I disconnect the controller (ECU) from the circuit and turn the battery off and on the battery behaves and illuminates as normal.
If I connect the ECU to the circuit and switch the battery off the blue light remains on.
My question was is this an indication of a broken controller or do they all do this? It didn't do this when it worked you see.

As I said at the beginning the (handlebar mounted) LCD won't switch on so I'm trying to gleen any experience of known failures of these units or troubleshooting tips as with a completely dead system it's hard to know where to start.

 

[vfr400]

There are very many possible causes for that problem. The only way to find the exact cause is to start measuring and testing.

test 1. Disconnect the battery from the controller and measure the voltage on the battery side connector. Measure it again while connected with the controller switched off. If it collapses, you have a dead short or your battery/BMS is faulty. You can test the battery by putting some independent small load on it to see if it stays on, like 4 x 12v bulbs in series or anything else you have that can work on 48v.
test 2. Assuming voltage holds, keep your probes on the battery wires while you attempt to switch on the control panel. See what happens to the voltage.

 

[Bonehead33]

Thanks a lot I shall give that a try