Dealing with water and cables

Andy88

Esteemed Pedelecer
Nov 6, 2016
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Am I right in thinking that the most vulnerable electrical point of an ebike is the controller?

And the biggest natural enemy to electrical parts is water?

Look at these two wheels



The first cable looks neater following the line of the forks.

The second U shape more practical in preventing water entering the hub?

Cable Mess
Surely there is a way to better locate these cables.


Quality is assured with say a specialized or the likes, circa £400 plus

But bike conversion kits and installation can leave a lot to be desired.

Seems to be a lack of clarity or detail out there, must be a market?
 
Last edited:

Woosh

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May 19, 2012
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in the first picture, the channel needs to be filled with grease and sealed with a waterproof cap.
In the third picture, the cable is usually sleeved and heat shrunk. The newer HL casing don't have this problem.
 
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Andy88

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in the first picture, the channel needs to be filled with grease and sealed with a waterproof cap.
In the third picture, the cable is usually sleeved and heat shrunk. The newer HL casing don't have this problem.
What is HL ?
 

Woosh

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the battery in your picture #2 is usually called square bottle or case 09, the HL case is also known as case 08, sleeker and can be fitted with sheathed cable.

 

Woosh

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this picture shows how neat the wiring of a HL battery and controller is. The exit point is sheltered by the battery and frame. The case is also very well sealed.

This picture is taken of a Woosh Bermuda.

 
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Woosh

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sits well on the squarish frame
that is something you get with factory bikes. Most downtube batteries including the HL have a flat base and 3 mounting points, normal bikes usually have round tubes and two mounting points for the water bottle. When we do a conversion, we fit extra rivnuts but they are never as strong as the bosses we have on the factory bikes.

The Karoo has even neater cabling:

 

Andy88

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Surely future ebikes will have a housing for a battery like the one in the video, interesting they are using a bafang hub motor.

 

Andy88

Esteemed Pedelecer
Nov 6, 2016
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that is something you get with factory bikes. Most downtube batteries including the HL have a flat base and 3 mounting points, normal bikes usually have round tubes and two mounting points for the water bottle. When we do a conversion, we fit extra rivnuts but they are never as strong as the bosses we have on the factory bikes.

The Karoo has even neater cabling:

I think going the conversion route there is a good argument for the pannier battery as it is on the Big Bear, but routing the cable through the frame?
 

Fordulike

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Feb 26, 2010
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I had the same scenario highlighted in your third picture, with my frame shark pack. The solution was to use a silicone sealant, as mentioned in a thread I posted.

http://pedelecs.co.uk/forum/threads/technicqll-range-of-sealants-and-adhesives.26240/
http://pedelecs.co.uk/forum/threads/technicqll-range-of-sealants-and-adhesives.26240/
I used the sealant after I replaced my BBS02 controller, and had to resolder the battery connection to the docking platform. I found that even though I had originally used heat shrink to cover the join, water had ingressed, and it was starting to corrode.
 

Woosh

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May 19, 2012
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I think going the conversion route there is a good argument for the pannier battery as it is on the Big Bear, but routing the cable through the frame?
Internal routing of cables is usually done on factory built bikes.
Very few normal bikes allow internal routing of cables through the frame, when they do, the hole is usually not large enough to take on extra cables. You need an entry (and also exit) of at least 10mm x 18mm.
This picture is taken from the Woosh Karoo: