Dish or shim, what does the team think ?

[Deleted member 4366]

5v stolen (shared.. lol) from the throttle connector, and both signals will go via diodes to SH... I expect that it will work on signal high only but I'll see if there is any quiescent current from the sensor to use for the best of both worlds 'signal missing'.

Whilst your here, lol

Thanks again for that lipo suggestion,


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http://www.avdweb.nl/Article_files/Solarbike/Motor-controller/China-BLDC-motor-controller-36V-250W.pdf
When I look at the scematic here, it seems to show that using the low voltage switch on SL, CPU26 is normally high, and pulled down by the brake switch.

The schematic for SH doesn't look right. If I've figured it out right, it shows the 5v holding the transistor on until the switch is grounded so that CPU26 would be normally low. I would have expected the transister to be normally off, and then apply 5v to SH to switch it on and pull down CPU26 like the normal brake switch. I did e-mail the guy about it, and he said that he'd changed the schematic, but didn't give any details, and I haven't seen any changes in this area, so I'm still confused.

 

[Old_Dave]

Thanks for the heads up Dave

I'll have a look before doing it

 

[Old_Dave]

Right..

At first quick glance it would seem that his 'fail safe mod' is confounding the issue.

I don't think these sensors can be configured to work in that mode, but what I'll do is just swap the wire from SL to SH connect it up and see what happens next..

Then have a think about fail safe after measuring the signal / no signal states

 

[Deleted member 4366]

Thanks. Let me know what you find out. I tried it with just a hall sensor, but I couldn't get the controller to cut the power; however, it wasn't very conclusive because I didn't have enough hands to hold everything, so i can't say that everything was definitely connected correctly.

 

[Old_Dave]

Lol

The moral of the story is that it seems that I'm never to old to fall into the assume trap

These sensors give about 3v when not active and 0 when activated.. ffs !!

Soooooooooo SH is nul and void, SL was the one that was needed and works just fine.

More later

 

[Old_Dave]

Shunt leg soldered
Relevant resistor removed and replaced with 15k + 1k (cos I put the pack of 16k in a safe place !!!) position changed for easy access if my maths were wrong.




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[Deleted member 4366]

All we need now is some performance figures!

 

[Old_Dave]

Before controller mods the peak amps was 15.63

Tomorrow if frost and rain permit then we will see what we get..

 

[Old_Dave]

Ok, some kinda figures
Temp 0c
V at start 49.76 to 47.35 at end
Peak amps now at 16.17 (may get around to tweek for 17 but with 'current' results I doubt its worth it)
Max speed going down a bit of a hill 25.01
Up a bit of a hill 15mph (according to gps, but will need to test that again, however with out knowing the gradient its a dum result)
6km button = 5mph lol
Watts peak 772.1

I'll think about going out tomorrow if its warmer and see if I can find a long straight flat.