Dual suspension passenger bike

cwah

Esteemed Pedelecer
Jun 3, 2011
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Hello

As I keep putting new things. I decided to create a thread.

Here's my latest add:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/s33q64y544ynl8z/IMG_20180515_234150.jpg?dl=0

My backpack is often quite heavy, in the 7-15kg. I'm hoping the rack clamp would be strong enough:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/qxe4uj2lwe1r580/IMG_20180515_234241.jpg?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/ggvlwk7omhfpt3c/MVIMG_20180515_234252.jpg?dl=0

I plan to use the rack mainly to carry my heavy backpack. But sometimes I'd guess some of my passenger would use it to climb to the seat, or even as footpegs!

The angle is not that great. Would you reckon it would hold? I'm a bit worried it's on the suspension part as well.
 

Nealh

Esteemed Pedelecer
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With a pax and rack that's a lot of weight over the rear wheel, should have got a unicycle for two :p.
 
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cwah

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Jun 3, 2011
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With a pax and rack that's a lot of weight over the rear wheel, should have got a unicycle for two :p.
Have you noticed the moped tyre and the large rim? It's made for that :)
 

cwah

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D

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I always make a hole at the bottom rear of the bag for the wires because the water doesn't go uphill, and if any ever does get in, it'll drain back out through the hole.

To make a hole, poke a hot soldering iron through and move it around until the hole is big enough. Put the connectors through the hole in order of size, biggest first.
 
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cwah

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Jun 3, 2011
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I always make a hole at the bottom rear of the bag for the wires because the water doesn't go uphill, and if any ever does get in, it'll drain back out through the hole.

To make a hole, poke a hot soldering iron through and move it around until the hole is big enough. Put the connectors through the hole in order of size, biggest first.
Good idea, thanks
 

Woosh

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May 19, 2012
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does it not look a perfect bike for a deliveroo?

 

spanos

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Feb 18, 2011
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To make a hole, poke a hot soldering iron through and move it around until the hole is big enough. .
Soldering iron ! Doh!

Cut and cauterise !

Now I feel a bit daft , so effective and simple and prevents ,as far as possible, any fraying etc

I am the fool what spent the pound here , not the engineer who spent a penny :)
 

cwah

Esteemed Pedelecer
Jun 3, 2011
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I successfully carried passengers on my bike, I did 5 miles and they felt much better than my previous one.

I ve even managed to carry 2 passengers: :Dhttps://www.dropbox.com/s/aqd6pjj0st5ap6v/IMG_20180526_193545~2.jpg?dl=0

Definitely an improvement. The rear suspension was a bonus and made it much smoother over bumps! So it was the right choice :)

Now I just need to figure out why my motor is using 1kw to run with me only, the bike is not that much heavier (5kg more?)

I'm considering either getting a bigger motor or add a front xiondga motor to decrease the load. But reliability and noise are my main concern
 
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anotherkiwi

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Jan 26, 2015
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I am finally beginning to understand your need to carry passengers... :rolleyes: I see that you didn't have any problems with overweight passengers on your test run ;)
 
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cwah

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Jun 3, 2011
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I am finally beginning to understand your need to carry passengers... :rolleyes: I see that you didn't have any problems with overweight passengers on your test run ;)
I need a powerful enough motor/set up for 2 passenger or heavy passenger! :cool:
 

Nealh

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In the pic I assume you all were excited because you all seem to have lost your heads o_O.
 
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cwah

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Jun 3, 2011
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add a CD kit.
What's a CD kit? How reliable is that? I need a bullet proof motor. I'm considering either adding the xiondga motor at 1.5kg on the front (but it's noisy) or get a bigger rear motor (mxus V3)
 

Woosh

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there is no bullet proof motor, Chinese or others. I think the best combo is to start with a cargo bike fitted with the Bafang MaxDrive (G330) then add a rear hub motor.
The MaxDrive is reliable because you have to pedal, you can't abuse it the way you can with the BBSes.
There are quite a few vendors of cargo bikes on alibaba now.

This one costs about $1,100:

 

cwah

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Jun 3, 2011
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there is no bullet proof motor, Chinese or others. I think the best combo is to start with a cargo bike fitted with the Bafang MaxDrive (G330) then add a rear hub motor.
The MaxDrive is reliable because you have to pedal, you can't abuse it the way you can with the BBSes.
There are quite a few vendors of cargo bikes on alibaba now.

This one costs about $1,100:

I prefer my full suspension cargo tbh ;)

Direct drive were the most reliable. I m considering a small hub to increase efficiency but I wonder if it will become headache or not!
 

Woosh

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May 19, 2012
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it depends what you call reliable. Geared hubs are just as reliable as DD motors if you consider service interval of 4000 miles. The only difference is you will need to replace the clutch unit at the same time if you run a geared motor.
Instead of changing a set of ballbearings in a DD motor, now consider throwing away the still functional motor. Now you may think I am crazy comparing the cost of 4 ballbearings against the cost of the whole motor. But think of the benefits/cost of the whole 4000 mile cycle. Changing the ballbearings takes at least 2 hours unless you do this days in days out. Factor in £30/hour labour and you see it makes sense to throw away the motor instead of replacing the 4 ball bearings. If you accept that the running cost is the same, a geared hub motor gives you better torque at lesser weight. Now considder that geared motor can be run sensorless. You can't do that with a DD motor, The sensorless geared motor is the most reliable in my opinion.
 

cwah

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Jun 3, 2011
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it depends what you call reliable. Geared hubs are just as reliable as DD motors if you consider service interval of 4000 miles. The only difference is you will need to replace the clutch unit at the same time if you run a geared motor.
Instead of changing a set of ballbearings in a DD motor, now consider throwing away the still functional motor. Now you may think I am crazy comparing the cost of 4 ballbearings against the cost of the whole motor. But think of the benefits/cost of the whole 4000 mile cycle. Changing the ballbearings takes at least 2 hours unless you do this days in days out. Factor in £30/hour labour and you see it makes sense to throw away the motor instead of replacing the 4 ball bearings. If you accept that the running cost is the same, a geared hub motor gives you better torque at lesser weight. Now considder that geared motor can be run sensorless. You can't do that with a DD motor, The sensorless geared motor is the most reliable in my opinion.
My 2 leaf motors have well over 10000 miles on it (each). I changed 3 times the hall sensor and the freewheel is such a pain to service (stuck) and having to clean and lube the chain I decided not to bother anymore.

Because my bike is heavy, when I used my Mac motor I used to change my brake pad every few months. What a hassle.

So while it doesn't have as much torque as a geared motor, it has other benefit that added make them more valuable to me:
- no need to service brakes anymore (I swapped them 18 months ago) thanks to regen
- no need to worry about broken clutch (they used to break every 3 months)
- no problem with gear noise. I love the sound of silence.

I haven't changed the bearing on it yet (I probably should).


4000 miles is about 6 months times for me. I'm a heavy rider. If I have to change my brakes every couple of months and service my motor every 6 months I think I'd get quite annoyed lol.


Do you have a front geared motor easy to service? I could consider adding a small geared motor on top of my rear DD for better efficiency. But really I just want minimum service and maximum reliability.


Ps: by the way, direct drive can be run sensorless as I had to do that when my motor hall sensor failed! Just need the right controller
 
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