Eleglide M1 Plus battery recommendations

[Idkmanebikesarecool]

Hi new here but been a long time lurker

I've had an Eleglide M1 for about a year now. The orignal battery is... Past it's prime
It loses range quick, has strong power for about 5 mins before losing it, struggles and cuts a lot. More recently, it won't charge! So I'm in the market for another
The bike is 250w continuous 36v, however I've "unlocked" it to 20mph so assume it's around 350w, possibly more?

I've seen yose power, unitpackpower, x-go etc but which battery should I actually go for!?
The current one is a hailong style with 4 flat pins/tabs, so if I get one like that I can just slide it on the bike and it'll go. I believe my controller is built into the battery base too, so ideally want to keep that

Thanks!

 

[saneagle]

There are three different bases and two different connectors, which makes 6 combinations. The only thing you can do is look at the pictures in the listings to see which ones match yours. The capacity doesn't make any difference.

One year isn't a long time for a battery to last. Your present one might just be out of balance. It's pretty easy to check that if you have a meter and screwdriver.

 

[Idkmanebikesarecool]

Hey, thanks for getting back to me

There are three different bases and two different connectors

My base is 4 flat tabs, not round

Exactly like this.
But beings as the controller is integrated, I'd like to keep this current base.
I was more after which brands and experiences with certain brands. Or even possibly having my current one 're-celled' with some branded cells

One year isn't a long time for a battery to last. Your present one might just be out of balance. It's pretty easy to check that if you have a meter and screwdriver.

Oh OK, would that explain it not charging too?
I have a meter somewhere.... Just unsure where exactly
How would I go about this?

 

[saneagle]

[QUOTE="Idkmanebikesarecool, post: 713789, member: 46131Oh OK, would that explain it not charging too?
I have a meter somewhere.... Just unsure where exactly
How would I go about this?
[/QUOTE]
Remove the screws from the base; separate the two halves of the case; put the black probe on the cell-pack ground, where it's soldered to the BMS; put the red probe on each position where the pins of the multi-pin connector are soldered to the BMS and record the voltages, which should go from 0v to 36v in steps of about 4 volts. The difference between adjacent pins is the individual cell voltages.