I collected this bike from Argos yesterday. It cost £120. Thanks to Waspy for pointing it out.
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Exciting New Project
- Thread starter saneagle
- Start date
Are you really going to fit 3 front chainrings to a 20" urban bike?
Also, where's the front mudguard? I think the mudguards look cool on this bike, a good fit.
You guys are very sharp. It was £120. I'll fit the I will remove the inner chain ring to simplify the arrangement. there won't be a front derailleur, but at least I would have the option to hook the chain onto the inermediate ring if ever my battery went flat. I'll line it all up first and see how it looks.
I ordered this 40-cell battery. I really wanted a 30-cell one, but I could only find them on Aliexpress from China, so 8 weeks delivery by boat. It's exactly the same as the one on Mikel's bike that I'm sorting out, so I was able to do a trial fit, and the screw holes more or less line up with the bottle fixings, so I probably won't have to mess about with rivnuts.
I ordered this 40-cell battery. I really wanted a 30-cell one, but I could only find them on Aliexpress from China, so 8 weeks delivery by boat. It's exactly the same as the one on Mikel's bike that I'm sorting out, so I was able to do a trial fit, and the screw holes more or less line up with the bottle fixings, so I probably won't have to mess about with rivnuts.
36V 13AH 10ah 15AH 350W 500W 750W Battery Downtube Electric Bicycle Bike Bicycle | eBay UK
Nominal Capacity: 15Ah. 36v 10ah Batteries combinations:10-S,4-P. 36v 10ah Batteries combinations:10-S,6-P. Fit Motor Power : 36V 250W 350W 500W 750W. Fuse Installation position:Inside on the PCB. Fuse Length(mm):30.
www.ebay.co.uk
Would this battery fit (36v 13Ah Haiong Pro)You guys are very sharp. It was £120. I'll fit the I will remove the inner chain ring to simplify the arrangement. there won't be a front derailleur, but at least I would have the option to hook the chain onto the inermediate ring if ever my battery went flat. I'll line it all up first and see how it looks.
I ordered this 40-cell battery. I really wanted a 30-cell one, but I could only find them on Aliexpress from China, so 8 weeks delivery by boat. It's exactly the same as the one on Mikel's bike that I'm sorting out, so I was able to do a trial fit, and the screw holes more or less line up with the bottle fixings, so I probably won't have to mess about with rivnuts.
36V 13AH 10ah 15AH 350W 500W 750W Battery Downtube Electric Bicycle Bike Bicycle | eBay UK
Nominal Capacity: 15Ah. 36v 10ah Batteries combinations:10-S,4-P. 36v 10ah Batteries combinations:10-S,6-P. Fit Motor Power : 36V 250W 350W 500W 750W. Fuse Installation position:Inside on the PCB. Fuse Length(mm):30.www.ebay.co.uk
Just thinking if someone wanted super cheap bike
Argos bike £120
Yosepower 20" conversion kit £134
That battery £91
Zoom brakes £25
DNP freewheel £20
Total £390
That's a pretty good deal.
Also, nice bit of space here to fit the controller/excess wiring.
I tried to buy that battery, but it wouldn't let me order. It said that it doesn't ship to UK from Germany. Their ordering system is very quirky. Sometimes I can order and sometimes I can't.
It never lets me order batteries on the website, I always have to message them
"Alice " 2831684296@qq.com always sorts it out
It's great to see someone convert an Argos Urban, 'twas mentioned a couple of years ago as a conversion possibility by a pedelecer, can't remember who. With it's small wheel torque advantage, sturdy looking frame which doesn't fold in the middle, 100kg or 15.74 stone rider weight limit, ample space for a large capacity downtube battery... the right conversion might even be capable of legally hauling most of Rapid Fatso uphill. Might not be rapid mind, and he'd still be a fatso, but outlaw no longer.
It is of course possible these are two entirely different rapid fatsos, but it's difficult to tell because the faces of all fatsos are round.
It is of course possible these are two entirely different rapid fatsos, but it's difficult to tell because the faces of all fatsos are round.
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I don't seem to be having much luck these days. Every small task ends up big.
I did a trial fit of the battery. The middle screw hole is about 3mm out. I thought I'd be able to use it if I removed a couple of mm from the end of the base, which got the base on, but when I put the battery on, it touched the seat-tube with still about another milimeter to go before the lock pin would go in. It's not a big problem. I just have to move the battery up a couple of inches, and stick a couple of rivnuts in the frame, though I was hoping not to have to do that.
I won't be using the brakes, gears, shifter, cables, cranks or bottom bracket, so most have that has gone now. It only leaves the front wheel, frame, forks, stem and bars, though the stem, bars and forks will probably go later.
Now, the next serious problem. It's got one of these daft bottom brackets that are impossible to remove. I tried all afternoon, using every method I could think of, but it wouldn't budge. I've ordered the special tool for it, but I've got a feeling it's not going to be enough. If it fails, I'll get someone to weld a bar to it.
I did a trial fit of the battery. The middle screw hole is about 3mm out. I thought I'd be able to use it if I removed a couple of mm from the end of the base, which got the base on, but when I put the battery on, it touched the seat-tube with still about another milimeter to go before the lock pin would go in. It's not a big problem. I just have to move the battery up a couple of inches, and stick a couple of rivnuts in the frame, though I was hoping not to have to do that.
I won't be using the brakes, gears, shifter, cables, cranks or bottom bracket, so most have that has gone now. It only leaves the front wheel, frame, forks, stem and bars, though the stem, bars and forks will probably go later.
Now, the next serious problem. It's got one of these daft bottom brackets that are impossible to remove. I tried all afternoon, using every method I could think of, but it wouldn't budge. I've ordered the special tool for it, but I've got a feeling it's not going to be enough. If it fails, I'll get someone to weld a bar to it.
I can get stuck ones off with a large stillson wrench suitably adjusted. I also use a suitable bolt passed through the bottom bracket cup from the inside and then thru the stillson open jaws with a very large washers (or plate with hole) and nut on the outside of the stillson tightened to stop the wrench from slipping off the narrow flat edge. Its usually a left hand thread so you turn the wrench clockwise.
This holds the wrench firmly to the cup. I have often had to use a steel pipe on the end of the stillson for additional leverage on older rusted bikes.
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