Front of bike (headset or suspension) doesn't feel right

cer

Finding my (electric) wheels
May 29, 2025
11
2
Hi,

A week or so ago I posted about an issue I had with the rear wheel of a cheapo E-bike I bought (Hitway BK15). The post replies helped me find out what the problem was, so I'm hoping I might have the same luck again.

After sorting the rear wheel issue, I fixed up the brakes, gears, etc, and (due to not being at home last week) was hoping to finally use the bike over the weekend... However, after giving it a final check on Saturday I noticed another issue, which I'm sure wasn't present at some earlier point of testing it.

While pressing the brakes, if I push the bike forwards it doesn't feel solid, like something is loose or not set right at the front end of the bike. There's also a clunk sound if I push hard enough. I've never had a bike with front suspension or this kind of headset before, so I don't know how to isolate the problem.

As mentioned, I'm sure it wasn't like this earlier and the only thing I can think of that may have caused something to change is completely unscrewing the headset top cap bolt. The instructions I've found online and followed for adjusting this type of threadless headset (loosen the stem bolts, adjust the top cap bolt tension, then tighten the stem bolts) hasn't fixed anything. I've also tried removing the headset components (apart from the upper/lower bearings and crown race) and putting them back together exactly as they were, but this hasn't changed anything either.

Does anyone know what the problem could be here? I can post photos/video if it helps.

Thanks.
 

saneagle

Esteemed Pedelecer
Oct 10, 2010
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With the stem clamp bolts released, you tighten the cap screw until you can feel a little tightness in the bearings when you turn the handlebars (resistance), then you back off the screw a minimal amount until the bars turn freely, then re-clamp the stem. Is that what you did?
 
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Waspy

Esteemed Pedelecer
Sep 8, 2012
515
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First thing is make sure the front wheel axle is fitted properly in the front fork drop-outs, then make sure the quick-release lever is tight when fully closed.

Next, make sure there is a 3-5mm gap between the top of the steerer tube and the top cap. The top cap must always apply pressure to the top of the stem and not the top of the steerer tube. This gap is achieved by using various numbers and thicknesses of spacers below the stem.

Edit: Also, the top stem bolt (not the top cap bolt) must never be above the top of the steerer tube.
 
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saneagle

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Oct 10, 2010
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First thing is make sure the front wheel axle is fitted properly in the front fork drop-outs, then make sure the quick-release lever is tight when fully closed.

Next, make sure there is a 3-5mm gap between the top of the steerer tube and the top cap. The top cap must always apply pressure to the top of the stem and not the top of the steerer tube. This gap is achieved by using various numbers and thicknesses of spacers below the stem.
Good points, well presented!

Just to expand on the second one, the spacer arrangement should result in a way where the cap remains above and away from the steerer tube so that it pulls the steerer tube up when you adjust the screw. If the steerer tube reaches the cap, tightening the screw won't adjust anything. That's why I said above that you must tighten it until you can feel resistance in the steering, then loosen off a bit. If there is insufficient gap to the steerer tube, you will never get resistance nor the correct adjustment.
 
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Waspy

Esteemed Pedelecer
Sep 8, 2012
515
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I would also check the brake rotor bolts are tight and the caliper bolts (and caliper adaptor bolts) are tight.

Not a bad idea to go over the whole bike making sure all the fixings are tight. Especially on a bike in a box from China.

One other thing you could do is you could take the front wheel off and check for correct cone adjustment.
 
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saneagle

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I would also check the brake rotor bolts are tight and the caliper bolts (and caliper adaptor bolts) are tight.

Not a bad idea to go over the whole bike making sure all the fixings are tight. Especially on a bike in a box from China.

One other thing you could do is you could take the front wheel off and check for correct cone adjustment.
It's getting complicated now, and you forgot the spokes. Let5try and make it simple:

Grab the top of the front wheel and pull it side to side. If it moves in that direction, there's a problem with the spokes or axle. It should be easy to see where the problem is by looking.

Remove the front wheel and lift the bike by the bottoms of the forks, then push back and forwards. If you can detect any movement it's normally from the headset. It can be from the fork legs (bushes), but only in old worn out forks. You can see by looking if the movement is coming from the fork legs.

these simple logical tests should take you directly to the cause of your problem.

I'm going to guess that you forgot to tighten the QR skewer because that's very noticeable. The others have to be quite bad to be felt, though if you assembled the bike from a box and didn't adjust the headset, that's the next most likely.
 
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Sturmey

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Jan 26, 2018
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Try not to do any wheelies if your front wheel is loose.


63453
 
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cer

Finding my (electric) wheels
May 29, 2025
11
2
Thanks everyone for your helpful replies.

I started writing a comment addressing all the different things you've suggested it could be, but having just had a quick test with the bike again, I've just realised something... When I said this issue occurs if I press the brakes and push the bike forward, I should have said "only the front brake".

I temporarily had the rear brake slackened (due to the issue I mentioned in a previous post) which I had forgot to add. So if I push the bike forward with both brakes on, this doesn't happen. It seems the clunking noise was actually the wheel edging forward through the front calipers when pushing hard. However, I've checked the caliper bolts and every other bolt on the front brake and after having tightened everything up the main issue is stll there.

Does this additional info shed any more light on what it could be? (it's definitely nothing to do with the quick-realease lever or incorrect cone adjustment - I've tested using a different wheel too).
 

cer

Finding my (electric) wheels
May 29, 2025
11
2
Try not to do any wheelies if your front wheel is loose.


View attachment 63453
Lol, not sure if I could even manage a wheelie on this bike tbh.
 

Waspy

Esteemed Pedelecer
Sep 8, 2012
515
209
Does it do this when you're actually riding the bike and applying pressure to both brake levers?

Are the front brake pads fitted correctly? And adjusted correctly?

Welcome to the wonderful world of mechanical disk brakes.
 

cer

Finding my (electric) wheels
May 29, 2025
11
2
Does it do this when you're actually riding the bike and applying pressure to both brake levers?

Are the front brake pads fitted correctly? And adjusted correctly?

Welcome to the wonderful world of mechanical disk brakes.
Unfortunately I haven't actually ridden the bike yet... was hoping to get this final issue sorted first. As far as I can tell, the pads are fitted and adjusted correctly. This is my first experience with mechanical disk brakes and they are annoying me already! (I've found it really tricky to get them not to rub).
 

cer

Finding my (electric) wheels
May 29, 2025
11
2
Here's a short video of what's happening:

https://streamable.com/1zj0s8

Seconds 0-4: With the front brake lever pressed, I'm pushing the bike back and forward from the handlebars.

Seconds 6-10: With front and rear brake levers pressed, I'm pushing the bike back and forward from the handlebars.