Genius, mad man, or common sense? Chain lubrication

MichaelM

Pedelecer
Nov 14, 2020
50
35
Historically as an unassisted occasional cyclist I have cleaned my chain, derailleur and sprockets now and then with WD40 and a toothbrush, and kept them oiled with 3 in 1 or car engine oil. I have never changed a chain for wear reasons, although I probably should have.

I once tried some Finish Line wet lubricant and all I can say is you need a serious commitment to chain cleaning if you want to use that.

Now I have an e-bike, mainly so I can cycle more. It’s for fun and keeping active so I’m a fair-weather man. I won’t use it much in the cold months and maybe for 50 miles a week from March/April to October.

It occurs to me that the chain, chainwheel and sprockets will likely wear faster on an e-bike since my puny torque will be augmented.

I dislike filthy chains and cleaning them, so I have instigated a new regime. I’ve prepared the ground a bit by adding a front mudflap to the just-too-short front mudguard to keep muck away from the engine and guarded chainwheel.

After a few miles with only factory grease on the chain, I wiped off the surface dirt and applied a dry wax lubricant in a volatile carrier – actually White Lightning Clean Ride. The idea I think is that the carrier takes the wax, in more of a suspension than a solution, into the nooks and crannies. Then the petroleum distillate, which smells a lot like lighter fluid, evaporates leaving the wax where it can do the business.

I applied it outside at about 12 degrees C, in a gentle breeze. Within a few seconds, the wax had set in globules on the chain. The globules were mostly on top of the chain where I had applied the substance, rather than hanging underneath, so I had my doubts about just how far it had crept and how much had actually got inside the rollers and between the plates. After a bit of thought I heated the chain gently with a hot-air gun while turning the pedals, enough to melt the wax so it could flow but not so much that it dripped off to any material extent. I applied more lubricant and repeated the warming. I now have a thin layer of wax all over the chain and presumably in between the pins and rollers.

I’ve done maybe 30 miles since then, and the chain doesn’t seem to be hanging on to dirt to any noticeable degree. It’s running very quietly and changing gear better than it did on the factory grease.

I haven’t quite decided where to go from here, if all goes well I’ll probably just put some more on in 100 miles or so. My riding is all tarmac, no mud-plugging or dusty tracks. I’ll see how mucky it gets but I expect I will have to clean it occasionally, so I’ll contemplate whether to deploy the WD40 and toothbrush, or run it through a chain cleaner with some citrus degreaser I have never used.

I admit the instructions for Clean Ride don’t actually mention using a 2kW paint stripper to warm the chain (a hair dryer would probably be safer) but I’m feeling pretty smug about this for the moment. Have I found the secret of eternal chain life, or lost my marbles?
 

Scruffydroid

Pedelecer
Dec 12, 2020
53
20
Chain wax is great, until you try clean it off... Water based degreasers work to a very limited extent, and have the added downside of allowing water to get into the rollers (no o-ring chains on bicycles). You need a solvent based cleaner, brushes, rags and patience to clean it off. I've been using chain wax on my dirt motorcycles for years (x-ring chains), ask me... I was led by marketing. 3-in-1 (or 80w-90 gear oil on motorcycles) is much better, imho.
 
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Gliggsy

Pedelecer
May 15, 2020
96
32
Yep, I bet all your shirts are colour co-ordinate in the wardrobe and the tins of soup are stored alphabetically in the kitchen cupboard, other than that it was actually a good read!
 

Nealh

Esteemed Pedelecer
Aug 7, 2014
20,105
8,218
60
West Sx RH
We read it on the forum many times about chain lubricants and looking after them.
What is so hard about a bit of motor gear oil, no major expense involved or proclaimed miraculous snake oils.
 
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MichaelM

Pedelecer
Nov 14, 2020
50
35
No silver bullet then? Oh well:(

Points taken, oil is hard to beat as a friction and wear reducer. I think I'll see how it goes for a while. If the dirt doesn't stick then maybe I won't clean it at all beyond a wipe.

I'm not at all organised BTW, sorting the soup tins alphabetically would be well down the list at the moment. Especially as they are all mulligatawny. Maybe I could put them in date code order...hmmm...
 
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WheezyRider

Esteemed Pedelecer
Apr 20, 2020
1,660
916
No silver bullet then? Oh well:(

Points taken, oil is hard to beat as a friction and wear reducer. I think I'll see how it goes for a while. If the dirt doesn't stick then maybe I won't clean it at all beyond a wipe.

I'm not at all organised BTW, sorting the soup tins alphabetically would be well down the list at the moment. Especially as they are all mulligatawny. Maybe I could put them in date code order...hmmm...
Just so long as you've got the labels all pointing the same way you'll be fine... ;)

With chains I think you have to be a bit pragmatic about it. It's the hardest working bit of your bike and once exposed to the elements, they don't last.

Chains are so cheap now, if you ride a lot it's best to just change it regularly with a new one, rather than trying expensive unproven oils, or spending hours cleaning and treating. A decent chain can be bought for less than £10. Cleaning a chain can take ages...how much is your time worth? - Not to mention the cost of special treatments, which probably drip off/wear off into the environment and possibly cause harm. Chains are steel and so they can be recycled relatively easily.
 
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