Have I brought a load of rubbish?

[petedaniel]

Hi Pete

They are almost certainly a standard size as made by Yuasa, which is quoted as 151mm x 98mm x 97.5mm L x W x H. The extra height is due to the fact that Yuasa include the height of the spade terminals, so the body height is almost certainly 95mm.

Can you confirm that yours have quarter-inch spade terminals? If so the Yuasa part number you require would be NPH12-12. The alternative - NP12-12 - is not really suitable as its capacity is much reduced at the sort of current an e-bike demands when compared to the NPH version.

This size is also made by other manufacturers, but Yuasa is the best known make. They also manufacture under the name 'Enersys' in the States.

If you're in the UK, Maplin stock the right size - their code is UD03D, and they're priced at £32.99 each. Their life will vary depending on whether or not they match the NPH or the NP versions - there's no way to know. I don't think they're made by Yuasa. It would be a start, though.

Edit: just seen John's quote. This might be a better bet as they will be high-discharge models, and a slightly better price, although carriage will be considerable.

Rog.

the cables are soldered on to a flat base flush with the top of the Battery.
the question is do I want to risk an other £100 on what my be just the start. of other costs

 

[frank9755]

Bad luck, Pete.

The answer to your question as to whether you are better to cut your losses or invest in the prospect of sorting this out depends first of all on whether the bike, were it to be working, would meet your needs or not.
- What do you intend to use it for - distance, hilliness, frequency of trip...?
- How strong a cyclist are you?
- How important are the looks / image of the bike?

If you answer those and it turns out this bike meets your needs, the next question is how happy are you to fiddle around with (fairly simple) electronics to get it working? Chances are it is the batteries. However it could be the controller - which would be a fiddly but fairly simple swap-out and would cost you maybe £20 to replace. There's not that much else to go wrong, other than a loose wire - again more fiddling around.

So the answer depends on you more than the bike!

 

[petedaniel]

Bad luck, Pete.

The answer to your question as to whether you are better to cut your losses or invest in the prospect of sorting this out depends first of all on whether the bike, were it to be working, would meet your needs or not.
- What do you intend to use it for - distance, hilliness, frequency of trip...?
- How strong a cyclist are you?
- How important are the looks / image of the bike?

If you answer those and it turns out this bike meets your needs, the next question is how happy are you to fiddle around with (fairly simple) electronics to get it working? Chances are it is the batteries. However it could be the controller - which would be a fiddly but fairly simple swap-out and would cost you maybe £20 to replace. There's not that much else to go wrong, other than a loose wire - again more fiddling around.

So the answer depends on you more than the bike!

Sorry I should have explained befor.
I brought the E bike for my Wife who has difficulties walking. It was to go on the back of our camper van . So that we where not stuck in a camping site and as she is also sixty seven we wanted something reliable, so she did not get stuck away from the camping site. I am still not sure that i WILL NOW TRUST HER ON IT.

 

[frank9755]

OK - That bike should be fine for what you want it for (assuming you don't find it too heavy to lift on to back of camper) so you just need to get it working.

At the moment, does it work ok for a short while or does it not ever provide enough power to move you along at 10mph plus on the flat without pedalling?

If the former - virtually certain to be the batteries. If the latter, does it stop doing even that after a short while (<20 minutes)? If so probably the batteries again.

If it will keep performing weakly all day, then it is probably not the battery but a loose connection somewhere, or motor fault.

From your OP it sounds like the middle one and that it is therefore a battery fault. If it's not too much of a pain for you to get to Swindon you could go and get them to fit the batteries on the understanding you'll buy them if it works - but if it doesn't you don't want to. They would probably agree to that, especially if you're not going at a busy time.

 

[petedaniel]

The only NPH12-12 Are over £200 each I can find NP12-12 At a reasonable price
But I have found these RS Batteries At £21.any one know if they are any good for my use?

Voltage Rating 12V
Capacity 12Ah
Terminal Type 4.7 mm Blade
Operating Temperature -15 °C → +50°C
Dimensions 151x98x97mm
Nominal Capacity 12Ah
Weight 4.09kg

 

[rog_london]

The only NPH12-12 Are over £200 each I can find NP12-12 At a reasonable price
But I have found these RS Batteries At £21.any one know if they are any good for my use?

Voltage Rating 12V
Capacity 12Ah
Terminal Type 4.7 mm Blade
Operating Temperature -15 °C → +50°C
Dimensions 151x98x97mm
Nominal Capacity 12Ah
Weight 4.09kg

That's probably about the best price you'll get unless you buy in quantity - I'm surprised RS is so competitive as they aren't noted for their keen pricing - they have always scored as a result of almost always having stock of the huge range of kit they supply and carriage is usually included.

It's doubtful they are NPH equivalents but if I were you I think I'd go for it. £63 for a set of batteries is not a bad price at all. If they last six months you're still doing much better than you would do pound for pound with any other technology.

Remember that to get the best from SLAs recharge as soon as possible after riding and ideally never run them flat.

Rog.

 

[petedaniel]

That's probably about the best price you'll get unless you buy in quantity - I'm surprised RS is so competitive as they aren't noted for their keen pricing - they have always scored as a result of almost always having stock of the huge range of kit they supply and carriage is usually included.

It's doubtful they are NPH equivalents but if I were you I think I'd go for it. £63 for a set of batteries is not a bad price at all. If they last six months you're still doing much better than you would do pound for pound with any other technology.

Remember that to get the best from SLAs recharge as soon as possible after riding and ideally never run them flat.

Rog.

By The time I got around to ordering them the price had gone up to £23 plus Vat so with delivery it has now cost me £83 is that still a good price ?
Watch this space to see if it impproves the running of my suspected purchase
And a special thank you for all the helpful information I have received
Pete

 

[petedaniel]

By The time I got around to ordering them the price had gone up to £23 plus Vat so with delivery it has now cost me £83 is that still a good price ?
Watch this space to see if it impproves the running of my suspected purchase
And a special thank you for all the helpful information I have received
Pete

4th day of waiting still no batteries have arrived despite their claim of 2to3 days
delivery.

 

[Vikki]

Those batteries will last you about 5 months depending on your milage. They are standby batteries and not intended for cyclic discharging. I used them on my old PowaByke. 15 mile round trip 5 days a week. 20 mile range for a while then rapidly dropping off until the 5 month mark when they wouldn't get me to work.
I was happy to use them while I had the bike because where I work uses them by the truckload and I could get them for a tenner each. Would probably last longer if charged at both ends of journey. Proper cyclic batteries last a LOT longer

There's plenty of omphh in them, though. You won't be disappointed in their performance, just their poor longevity.

Best regards.

Vikki.

 

[petedaniel]

4th day of waiting still no batteries have arrived despite their claim of 2to3 days
delivery.

Got them at last, They seem to be fine now I have to purchase a crash helmet for my wife. and hope she will be safe out on the roads.
any one know how I can turn off the lights to save the batteries a bit more?