Hech Hog and the Vitus e-mythique.

[hech hog]

Good day, My name is hech (pronounced as in dutch not loch) hog. I used to be plain old hech but when I met Mrs Hog I just had to marry her hence Hech Hog ! So that basically all there is, except possibly that I bought a s/h Vitus E-Mythique with 200 miles on clock and 2 dodgy battery comp keys.
I love the bike almost as much as Mrs Hech Hog, except it has of course broken down. And this is where you all can come in, if you choose. Its turning fine but the display unit wont light up or power the bike. I bought a new switch and display but that has not helped. So I am about to take the motor off the bike and have already drilled the dodgy battery compartment key's lock off of the bike.
So Im wondering if any helpful soul out there has any advice regarding removal of mid motors (Bafang M510) and associated connector probs? It was such a nice ebike for the money.

 

[saneagle]

Good day, My name is hech (pronounced as in dutch not loch) hog. I used to be plain old hech but when I met Mrs Hog I just had to marry her hence Hech Hog ! So that basically all there is, except possibly that I bought a s/h Vitus E-Mythique with 200 miles on clock and 2 dodgy battery comp keys.
I love the bike almost as much as Mrs Hech Hog, except it has of course broken down. And this is where you all can come in, if you choose. Its turning fine but the display unit wont light up or power the bike. I bought a new switch and display but that has not helped. So I am about to take the motor off the bike and have already drilled the dodgy battery compartment key's lock off of the bike.
So Im wondering if any helpful soul out there has any advice regarding removal of mid motors (Bafang M510) and associated connector probs? It was such a nice ebike for the money.

The LCD works independently from the motor. If it won't switch on, either it is not receiving battery voltage or it has a communication problem that is shutting it down. very occasionally, you get problems like a wire detatched in the switch or LCD or water in somewhere that damages the electronics.

The battery wires go into the motor, then a branch is taken off them that goes directly to the LCD/switch arrangement. here's not much that can go wrong with that except cable damage or connector problem.

Modern Bafangs use CANbus communications. The LCD talks to the battery to check that everything is OK before it trieds to do anything. That's probably the most likely cause of your problem and the hardest to deal with unless you're fluent in CANbus language. It also makes it very tricky to check the battery because it won't give power until it is happy with the handshaking protocols. You might be lucky and have older UART protocols, which dn't stop anything from working.

Before doing anything to the motor, you should make sure that the battery is OK.

 

[hech hog]

The LCD works independently from the motor. If it won't switch on, either it is not receiving battery voltage or it has a communication problem that is shutting it down. very occasionally, you get problems like a wire detatched in the switch or LCD or water in somewhere that damages the electronics.

The battery wires go into the motor, then a branch is taken off them that goes directly to the LCD/switch arrangement. here's not much that can go wrong with that except cable damage or connector problem.

Modern Bafangs use CANbus communications. The LCD talks to the battery to check that everything is OK before it trieds to do anything. That's probably the most likely cause of your problem and the hardest to deal with unless you're fluent in CANbus language. It also makes it very tricky to check the battery because it won't give power until it is happy with the handshaking protocols. You might be lucky and have older UART protocols, which dn't stop anything from working.

Before doing anything to the motor, you should make sure that the battery is OK.

 

[hech hog]

Many thanks for that informative and helpful comment Sir. I reckon its a 2022 or2023 e-mythique and assumed it would be CANbus (the new display is a c245 instead of the original c244) . At any rate neither display seems to work and the bike survived a couple of real downhill workouts including a couple of shallow burn crossings. But it got me home in better shape than I (two front teeth) or so I thought for it hasnt started since. No rain, no submersions and it's reading 40v at the WD60? connection to the motor. My experience with bafang bbs02 motors suggest they eat controllers, but I know nothing of these lovely wee M510 units. Im trying to source better parts, motor and wiring diagrams as those I downloaded initially were fairly basic, as indeed am I in this respect.
It's a shame because I enjoyed the bafang motor way more than the older Bosch and Shimano and even Sportsdrive motors Ive tried. The M510 is alot more powerful and has a lovely over-run that keeps you moving for a meter or two after peddling which is so handy for steep, punctuated climbs. Both their line of motors and batteries seem very reasonably priced compared to a replacement Bosch part, as you would expect, but Bosch seem so much more reliable in my fairly limited experience, and that is what we need.
Apart of course from further advice or suggestion on remedial action to get it fixed.