Hello from Tasmania

[bimmertas]

Howdy, from the far south.

Been into electric vehicles for a while now. Was riding an Tonaro/Aseako full suspension mid drive for about a year... The second time i broke the freewheel clutch in rear cassette, i decided that this design wasn't going to work for me.. Fitted the centre drive unit to a Trek hardtail MTB (not a job for the faint of heart )... got about 6 months before i destroyed the oneway clutch in the tonaro gearbox (The front freewheel was mangled too. Still working, but not for long)
BTW... both failures were due to enthusiastic riding combined with carrying a load of groceries. Modded the tonaro speed controller back when i first got it, runs about 800w continuous and barely gets warm

Spat it this time and said to myself, 'I 'ain't replacing no more darn underengineered freewheel clutches.. (Going to keep the tonaro unit for an electric motorcycle project in future, minus any clutches to fail )

Found a cheap/neglected folding bike with no controller/batteries on the local secondhand site last weekend and went to work making 'my bike' ... was supposed to be a '36v hub motor' but guessing it was designed for 24v due to the gearing (Wrong word i'm sure when referring to the speed of electric motor. Winding might be more appropriate)... does 35-40 kmph on the flat.

 

[Geebee]

Hi from a fellow Taswegian

The Tonaro is pretty high torque as standard so I am not surprised the rear free wheels failed

I saw your new bike on Gumtree as well.

 

[bimmertas]

Hello, I thought i was the only one

Yeah... the rear free wheels are only designed to handle so much... in its defence i only broke the rear one through being in a low gear on a grippy surface and really giving it all i could with the pedals from nearly stopped while carrying a load.
The oneway bearing in the gearbox itself though was due to launching in a high gear from standing start, pedals have no effect on this one, purely the torque from motor. That bugger is already the size of a wheel bearing for a car too. Don't think it would really be possible to toughen that part up at all really without a complete redesign.

... and i'd been running 12 cells instead of 10... so more like 1000w (and it still feels a bit sluggish to me )

Delighted at how this one is going so far, bit of a fluke to get the lower voltage/higher speed motor... and it even handles pretty well now that I've managed to get the bottom bracket below the axle line. First bike I've ever had that i can find the limit of grip on front wheel in the wet without instantly dropping it.

 

[anotherkiwi]

Is that an ammo box full of RC lipo? And your headlight is pretty orgasmic! Or you are out chasing Wallabies? As for dropping the bike in the wet, is it ever not raining?

Nice bike!

 

[bimmertas]

Hi there, thanks for the kind words Mr Kiwi.

Yes, ammo box and yes RC lipos can go in there. Got a couple of 6s 2700mah 25c things that i have run on this controller before
The controller and a little driver board for lights are in there too, main switches on back face.

Modded the main 10ah 10s battery pack that had come with another off the shelf bike today to bypass the battery management for discharge, but hopefully it should still work for balancing on charge. will find out when i have a chance to discharge and charge again.

No chasing wallabies yet... thought a big obnoxious headlight wouldn't hurt for safety, its off an old bmw, just happened to be lying around in the shed. 3x 0.5w leds mounted where the globe would go....

I'm already planning the next build... downhill forks, some real rear suspension, lots of kilowatts Better start saving my pennies