Help Dillenger 1500w kit

[Barney savage]

Help my cable has been severed i tryed to resolder cable together but still get a little m on the display and wheel dosent move

I need a new cable but cant find any online its a 3 pin juliet and there are nine wires in total going into the hub

Realy stuck guys and havent been able to use my bike for ages next step will be spending £200 to get it repaired but i know i can do it cheaper

 

[Barney savage]

Bump

 

[awol]

Is this the one your after?
http://www.pandaebikes.com/product/motor-extension-cable-for-electric-bicycle-ebike-8-wire-hall-effect-motor/

 

[Barney savage]

Hi there awol sorry to say i dont think this will help its 9 wires in the core 3 big and 6 small and i need 3pin as in the attached pictures to go into the controller but cant find anywhere

 

[Barney savage]

Silly me this one might work but dosent have the right julet 3pin on it to conect to controller the link says 8 wire but if you look at the picture there is nine wires im guessing the green is earth ??

 

[awol]

If the plug has only 3 pins then I guess the thin hall sensor wires are not connected and you have a sensorless controller, therefore I would try soldering a 3 core flex wire on the 3 thick wires between the motor and the connector. and leave the thin wires unconnected.

 

[Barney savage]

Hi there still no luck took it to a bike shop to get wires resoldered but still get a m error on the dashblard motor dosent spin the motor is deffinatly a hall motor as i can start from standstilll

 

[Deleted member 4366]

If your wires shorted when they got damaged, you can get all sorts of consequential damage, like blown hall sensors, blown 5v regulator, blown CPU or blown mosfets in the controller. Everything needs to be tested.

Start with the hall sensors. With everything powered up, check that you have 5v between the red and black hall wires, then check between black and each of the other colours. The 5v should switch on and off as you rotate the wheel by hand. The white wire is the speed signal from the motor. You can leave that one as it's probably not even being used.

No 5v means that the 5v regulator is blown or the controller isn't switched on.

Check the mosfets by disconnecting everything from the controller. Check the resistance between the red battery wire and each of the three phase-wire connectors. The three results should be the same (10K -14K Ohms). Repeat using the black battery wire instead of red. The three results should be the same, but not necessarily the same as the previous test (10k -14K Ohms).

The display works independently from the controller, so just because it looks normal, it doesn't mean that the controller is actually switched on or working.

 

[Barney savage]

Thankyou this info might help just need to get my hands on a multimeter to test it out let you know when i figured it out

 

[Barney savage]

We have checked the hall wires red labled h+ gives 4.3v u and w phases to ground give alternating 5v when the wheel is turned and the v phase to ground is permanent 5.v the green blue and yellow that connect to mosfets show open cuircuit to the live wire am i checking the right thing ?? Is there a way to individualy check mosfets we had the m error on screen affter takeing it apart the m disapeared wheel moved couple of inches when acceleration was applyed