Help pls ! - fuses / fuse holders

103Alex1

Esteemed Pedelecer
Sep 29, 2012
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Hi.

Slight tearing out of hair moment trying to find fuse holders rated for 36V supplies (pref waterproof).

I have some like this for use with lights which I intend to install after DC-DC converters in feeds to charger outlet sockets / lighting supply wires, which I hope are OK ? :

5 amp mini Blade In-Line Fuse Holder / Fuseholder 5AMP Car van boat waterproof | eBay

... however if you look at the specs these state they are only rated for 32V DC and therefore I don't know if they are OK to use as inline fuse holders on supplies to a 36V light where the internal buck converter must be after the fuse as that's how the light is designed.

Can anyone please help ? Obviously in supplying a light, current would never be anything like 30A - much more likely 1-2A max. But the supply voltage of that particular light is from 36V battery so guessing input voltage to light 36V.

I have also got one of these to use as inline fuse and holder for the main battery to controller power supply line (36V battery / 30-32A controller). It's rated to 150A and I got a couple of 40A fuses for it, so hope it is OK. Is this the sort of thing other people have been fitting ?

MIDI fuse holder MAX- 150 Amp rating ALT FH560

Finding anything rated over 30A / 32V in a regular style inline fuse holder like the one first linked above isn't easy :confused:
 
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jackhandy

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May 20, 2012
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the Cornish Alps
Deans connectors to each end - convention is the vertical spade has the red wires (+). You can cut the wires on the fuse-holder fairly short to save space.
You've just reminded me that I have been meaning to ask that very thing:

Is (+) the vertical spade with the connector horizontal?
 
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Deleted member 4366

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Yes.

Normally, it doesn't matter if you put all the connectors on yourself, as long as they're all the same way, but if you buy any proprietary items with Deans connectors already fitted, like a charger, battery or watt-meter, something will go pop. With all these things, it's best to follow the convention, then you can always check that connectors have the correct polarity.
 

103Alex1

Esteemed Pedelecer
Sep 29, 2012
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Thanks a lot. I'll be able to get fuses installed for everything with a mix of all those by the looks of it :)

Just another thing which I didn't quite understand ... I'll be using a bunch of DC-DC converters, most likely one converter for each relevant accessory barring the front CREE & rear lights which will be on a Y-split after the single 36V to 9V 3A voltage step-down converter for these two.

I seem to remember being advised to put a switch across every DC-DC converter. Not sure that's going to be realistic especially as 2 of them will be inserted after a handlebar switch - one into each of 2 different supply wires from the handlebar switch corresponding to different connections activated by different switch settings. In my head the DC-DC converters are simply an inline converter necessary to supply the end function (be it phone charger or light) at the correct voltage.

So not sure why the DC-DC converter itself needs a switch - does it draw loads of power when idle or something ?
 

jackhandy

Esteemed Pedelecer
May 20, 2012
1,820
323
the Cornish Alps
Yes.

With all these things, it's best to follow the convention, then you can always check that connectors have the correct polarity.
Happiness!

I followed the way my watt-meter was configured when I put deans on my bikes & bits, but didn't think to check convention:

I also put the female (socket) on the hot lead, but I expect everyone does that (after the first flash-bang, anyway). :rolleyes: