Help - too many punctures

Oct 26, 2018
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#21
That last point Andy might have some relevance. I keep getting new tubes from Halfords and ask for those suitable for the Crossfuse, and they seem to give me different sizes every time. The tyres are I believe 700C 35 so what inner tube size is the best to buy for those. And the Marathon Plus tyres seem to come in 700C by 35 and 700C by 40 so I'm guessing I order the former?
Mike
You have to read carefully on the inner tube box yourself, as to which tyre size they are for.....Sometimes I find it to be not very obvious.....
Best of luck
Andy
 
Aug 22, 2018
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2
#22
Hi Mike, I had 3 punctures in a week on my way to work, which was making me dread using my bike. I changed the standard Scwalbe Smart Sam's to these: Schwalbe Marathon GT 365 DualGuard E-50 FourSeason Performance Wired Hybrid and filled the tubes with Slime. I haven't had a puncture since. I did up the tyre pressure to 80 PSI to prevent pinch punctures as well. AFAIK, going tubeless will also prevent pinch punctures so you could run lower pressure for comfort. My original tyres were 44 mm width and my new ones 38 mm. I kept the same tubes with no issues so far.
 

Jimod

Esteemed Pedelecer
Aug 9, 2010
1,036
88
Polmont
#23
Never liked slime. The only time I used it I got a puncture pretty soon after ... slime everywhere that made it impossible to mend the puncture.
That is my experience of slime filled tubes as well.
 
Oct 8, 2017
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Sheffield
#24
I run Schwalbe Marathon Plus MTB tyres back and front with slime tubes at 35 to 40 psi. They are advertised as "flatless" Ha Ha!! I get loads of punctures, probably one every 3 -4 rides.
One thing to be careful of with the slime tubes is to make sure that the valve is clean as letting any air out of the valve also lets in some slime resulting in a slow deflation. so, clean the valve then make sure it is in the 4 or 8 oclock position when pumping.
 
Jan 24, 2018
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Dublin
#26
I have 11k kms on a set of marathon plus MTB's with no punctures. Strictly road use only however, and I don't think they grip that well however running sensible tyre pressures helps (i.e. 40-50 psi). I was running more pressure until I dropped the front unexpectedly on a greasy turn - that one hurt.
 
Apr 24, 2013
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#27
I have just fixed another puncture - in the back wheel, of course! The OKO sealant worked, so at least I could fix it at home, in the warm, and with all my tools. It's true about the sealant getting in the valve and causing problems. If I have to, I move the valve to the top, take the core out, few hard pumps into the tube, clean the core and put it back. A big bottle of OKO does loads of wheels, and I'm sure it's cheaper than slime. This puncture was caused by a shard of glass like one of Phil Harding's flint chippings.
 
Oct 8, 2017
65
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Sheffield
#28
I have just fixed another puncture - in the back wheel, of course! The OKO sealant worked, so at least I could fix it at home, in the warm, and with all my tools. It's true about the sealant getting in the valve and causing problems. If I have to, I move the valve to the top, take the core out, few hard pumps into the tube, clean the core and put it back. A big bottle of OKO does loads of wheels, and I'm sure it's cheaper than slime. This puncture was caused by a shard of glass like one of Phil Harding's flint chippings.
Hi Chainring, you really need the valve stem pointing upwards so that nothing runs into it.