How to open a Q100?

[Marctwo]

Anyone?

I've taken the bolts out but can't budge the side. The data sheet (pdf download at bmsbattery) has an exloded graphic but I can't tell whether the side screws on or not.

 

[shemozzle999]

From d8veh's photograph and comments posted on endless sphere

Endless-sphere.com • View topic - CUTE geared hub motors from bmsbattery/ecitypower

 

[Marctwo]

Brilliant! Thanks.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

My patent method now is remove one screw and replace it with a longer one, and then tap it round anticlockwise using a blunt screwdriver on the bottom of the screw as close to the countersink as possible. It takes a good few taps to get it going, but after about an inch of turn, you can unscrew the rest by hand.

The three screws hold the clutch to the side-plate, so you don't need to remove the other two screws unless you want to service the clutch.

 

[amigafan2003]

Brilliant! Thanks.

It's funny you've made this thread as I've just made myself a tool for this very purpose!

My cover seemed rather tight so drill 1/2" steel stock. On of the holes is slighty off but I'm not drilling it again!

Remove two screws. I like to remove the centre lock nut as well.

Insert two longer screws through the tool and into the side cover.

A light tap with a hammer and hey presto! Cover can unscrew by hand once it's budged a quarter of a turn. I like to use copper grease on the threads when refitting.

 

[amigafan2003]

Now, are you wondering I needed to take this motor apart?

Hmm, I might have to drop the wattage on the next motor. Although I not sure it's failure was entirely caused by wattage. It happened a day after I took a "short cut" across some seemingly looking smooth grass, only to find it was like the surface of the moon! Motor didn't seem right immediately after - the no load speed increased from 35mph to 44 mph and it seemed to lack "guts".

 

[Marctwo]

Thanks for the ideas guys... I'm overwhelmed.

Mine turned out to be a bit tight too. So I used 1 long bolt through a spanner levered against the spindle. A firm tap with a hammer got it going.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

Although I not sure it's failure was entirely caused by wattage. It happened a day after I took a "short cut" across some seemingly looking smooth grass, only to find it was like the surface of the moon! Motor didn't seem right immediately after - the no load speed increased from 35mph to 44 mph and it seemed to lack "guts".

I've got a feeling that the hall sensors are responsible for a lot of problems on theses motors - especially the 328rpm version. I guess that the position of the sensors is set on a pre-assembly jig. Thereafter, only the stiffness of the legs keeps them in position. I'm wondering if it's possible that the legs distort if you let the motor get a bit warm, which could upset the timing. That would explain why you got a speed increase and less power, and why my two will no longer start after I went up a very long steep hill at full throttle.

 

[Old_Dave]

I'm wondering if it's possible that the legs distort if you let the motor get a bit warm, which could upset the timing

Or a hall sensor it self just behaving badly ?

 

[Deleted member 4366]

Or a hall sensor it self just behaving badly ?

I checked my hall sensors, and they were behaving correctly, but there was something about them that the controller didn't like. Without the assembly jig, I can't see it being possible to replace them.

 

[amigafan2003]

I checked my hall sensors, and they were behaving correctly, but there was something about them that the controller didn't like. Without the assembly jig, I can't see it being possible to replace them.

Same here - Halls all tested ok.

Ran on a sensorless controller but rugh - but I thin the Cutes are like that sensorless anyway.

No big deal - already had a spare so simple 20 min job to swap the innards.

Still debating building a BPM into a front wheel ;-)

 

[shemozzle999]

I think your first assumption was correct, you over powered the motor going over the rough terrain which over heated the coils to a point where the insulating shellac on the main coils has melted shorting the coils out which then produces more heat causing thermal runaway.
I would not be surprised if when you meter the coil leads to the motor body you will have a direct short causing an increased cogging effect.