How to use a chain wear indicator tool?

[Fordulike]

Got one of these today:



Go on, humour me, what's the correct way to use this thing?

 

[awol]

 

[Croxden]

I thought the best way was to see if it works like a boomerang.

 

[Fordulike]

Thanks awol. I was wondering why the pointy bit wasn't going all the way into the chain link. Must mean my chain is still good for a few hundred more miles

 

[Fordulike]

I thought the best way was to see if it works like a boomerang.

I suppose I did ask for that

 

[D C]

I thought the best way was to see if it works like a boomerang.

And hope it doesn't come back!

Dave.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

This is the best way to use it:

 

[mike killay]

I tend to ride the bike oblivious of the chain condition until it stops working properly.

 

[JohnCade]

Certainly one way of doing it. It does mean you end up replacing all the drivechain as it will have all worn out together. More work than a simple chain swap, and more expensive too.

 

[mike killay]

Certainly one way of doing it. It does mean you end up replacing all the drivechain as it will have all worn out together. More work than a simple chain swap, and more expensive too.

Well, this is the received wisdom, but is it correct?
I have not used any lubrication at all on the drive chain or cogs for the last 500 miles and do not see any wear at all.
I live near the seaside and the sand is ground up quartz (which will cut glass)
By not lubricating, I avoid producing my own carborundum paste.
The cogs do not show any sign of wear.
Chains do not stretch.
They get longer because the rivets wear, and quite why they do so is not exactly known. Could be because grit gets inside the roller, or simply the wear of the two steel surfaces is enough to do the damage.

 

[JohnCade]

Yes it is correct and I’ve proved it by doing both over the years. I’ve had runarounds wear out the drivechain together when I didn’t care about them, and good road bikes with chains changed in good time to save the more expensive parts.

Chains wear on the rollers and that’s why they seem to stretch. Your chain is lubricated with the manufactures lubricant which is good for about 500 miles maybe more before you need to, and you won’t see much wear after that millage. But a gauge will show it clearly. Dry lub will not turn to paste and keeps dirt out by flaking off with the crap still attached.

 

[Fordulike]

Certainly one way of doing it. It does mean you end up replacing all the drivechain as it will have all worn out together. More work than a simple chain swap, and more expensive too.

Plus my chainring cost me 75 quid, so I'd rather preserve its life

 

[Fordulike]

Chains do not stretch.
They get longer because the rivets wear, and quite why they do so is not exactly known.

I think the word 'chain stretch' came about, because it is so easy to relate to in layman's terms.

The thing is, I can't really think of any other description to use, that doesn't sound too technical

 

[JamesW]

Got one of these today:

View attachment 11796

Go on, humour me, what's the correct way to use this thing?

It's a bike security device:

You cable tie it to your chain using the holes provided whenever you leave your bike to confuse the casual thief who manages to get past the bike lock but then can't work out why they can't actually pedal it away!

 

[Croxden]

By not lubricating, I avoid producing my own carborundum paste.
The cogs do not show any sign of wear.
Chains do not stretch.
They get longer because the rivets wear, and quite why they do so is not exactly known. Could be because grit gets inside the roller, or simply the wear of the two steel surfaces is enough to do the damage.

I have said this many times, admit having a Rohloff gives me an advantage of a tougher chain I only gave it some more wax at 5000 miles. Now I have 6500 miles and the chain is sweet, clean & silent running.

 

[Fordulike]

..... and the jovial japes just keep on coming

 

[Tomtomato]

I have said this many times, admit having a Rohloff gives me an advantage of a tougher chain I only gave it some more wax at 5000 miles. Now I have 6500 miles and the chain is sweet, clean & silent running.

I think you have a special case with your Rohloff hub hear, and therefore not that relevant to many people. I do hope that it won't fail before 30,000 miles (as it costs probably £800+ and cannot be repaired), else you won't have much savings compared to replacing a chain every 1,000 miles (cost only, not mentioning time).

 

[Croxden]

Regardless how I may mistreat my chain, it will not effect the Rohloff hub. Should the rear cog wear, it is reversable and can then continue to be used for a long time.
I did a lot of research before committing to a Rohloff and was the ability to withstand harsher use than I would inflict that convinced me the extra expence would be worth while.

 

[Gubbins]

Another less obvious reason not to ignore your chain.. Those black tooth marks that randomly appear on my clothes seem to infuriate her indoors!! And a really black chain makes really big marks!!

 

[Croxden]

I got black marks from the oil, not had any yet. Another advantage.