hydrolic brakes

Robw1uk

Pedelecer
Feb 12, 2009
71
1
Northampton
Just a quick question , how often do you fill the mineral oil for the brakes ? . also is there anyway to stop the juddering on them it sounds awful ?

this is what they are Tektro hydraulic disc brakes, front and rear.

thanks

Rob
 
D

Deleted member 4366

Guest
loosen the two screws that point towards the axle and hold the caliper on its mount. While holding the brake lever on hard, tighten the two screws. See if it then settles down after a couple of days. If not, you probably need new (different material) pads. You could try cleaning the pads with a bit of emery paper to give it a fresh surface.
 

Streethawk

Esteemed Pedelecer
Jan 12, 2011
634
16
d8veh is correct, they should never really judder. Squeaking cant be stopped, but they should be smooth.
 
D

Deleted member 4366

Guest
I've never touched my oil in any of my bikes. The lever goes spongy if you get air in. The juddering happens when the disk isn't in line with the caliper, or when the caliper isn't mounted rigidly enough.
 

Robw1uk

Pedelecer
Feb 12, 2009
71
1
Northampton
I've never touched my oil in any of my bikes. The lever goes spongy if you get air in. The juddering happens when the disk isn't in line with the caliper, or when the caliper isn't mounted rigidly enough.

All done will test in the morning when out , Thanks again

Rob
 

Zebb

Esteemed Pedelecer
Jun 13, 2012
371
12
I had the same problem as you on my kudos, more so on the front, I did the re align thing which helped a bit on mine, but it never really has gone completely. I will be replacing the pads soon.
 

Robw1uk

Pedelecer
Feb 12, 2009
71
1
Northampton
I had the same problem as you on my kudos, more so on the front, I did the re align thing which helped a bit on mine, but it never really has gone completely. I will be replacing the pads soon.
my rear judders like crazy( no jokes please lol) but i suppose thats to do with the caliper coming lose when i got it and 2 screws come lose and lost on the disc , i just lined it up by eye . done what
d8veh said will test in morning.

where and what pads would i need if need replacing i could imaging mine have warn in a off angle being unlined.
 

Zebb

Esteemed Pedelecer
Jun 13, 2012
371
12
my rear judders like crazy( no jokes please lol) but i suppose thats to do with the caliper coming lose when i got it and 2 screws come lose and lost on the disc , i just lined it up by eye . done what
d8veh said will test in morning.

where and what pads would i need if need replacing i could imaging mine have warn in a off angle being unlined.
I asked these people if they were right for mine they said yes, I have not ordered any just yet. Got too many other things to replace, just check with them first before you order.

Tektro Auriga Sub - Sub E - Volans Uberbike Sintered Disc Brake Pads | eBay
 

Linfitter

Pedelecer
Apr 2, 2012
48
9
Huddersfield
Dear Robw1uk

My bikes got the same brakes and has had the same problem.

If the Rotor is true then the problem must be on the Brake Calliper itself. I was using the visual is it in the middle system and square but it isn’t good enough, the Rotor must be exactly parallel to the slot in the Calliper and as near as dam it in the middle else the pads will wear unevenly and then the Brake Pistons will not sit flush with the brake pad metal backing when in contact with them and ultimately they will squeal or judder. My solution which has worked a treat so far was to make a feeler gauge type template from a piece of metal about 10cm by 3cm and the same thickness as the gap between the side of the Brake Rotor and the side of the slot in the Calliper when the Rotor is in the middle. I got a piece slightly oversized in thickness and filed and Emery papered it down to a close tolerance. Now with the pads removed press back the Calliper Pistons fully so that they have no bearing on the result and then undo the Calliper bolts. Place the ‘feeler gauge’ gently against the Rotor and turn the wheel until it is in the Calliper. Applying very slight pressure on the Calliper while rocking the wheel slightly backward and forward should align the faces of Calliper and Rotor via the inserted feeler gauge as accurately has your filing. When you are satisfied nip up the Calliper bolts.

Doing it this way cuts down on the error in Calliper alignment to the Rotor. Roughen the Brake Pads and Rotor slightly with fine Emery and replace. It has worked a treat with mine. The proof is in how the pads wear down. There should be no difference in lateral or horizontal wear.

P.S.

There is a problem with setting pads this way. With the squeal gone you may have to buy a bell if you haven’t already got one!

Yours Sincerely

Linfitter.
 

Robw1uk

Pedelecer
Feb 12, 2009
71
1
Northampton
Dear Robw1uk

My bikes got the same brakes and has had the same problem.

If the Rotor is true then the problem must be on the Brake Calliper itself. I was using the visual is it in the middle system and square but it isn’t good enough, the Rotor must be exactly parallel to the slot in the Calliper and as near as dam it in the middle else the pads will wear unevenly and then the Brake Pistons will not sit flush with the brake pad metal backing when in contact with them and ultimately they will squeal or judder. My solution which has worked a treat so far was to make a feeler gauge type template from a piece of metal about 10cm by 3cm and the same thickness as the gap between the side of the Brake Rotor and the side of the slot in the Calliper when the Rotor is in the middle. I got a piece slightly oversized in thickness and filed and Emery papered it down to a close tolerance. Now with the pads removed press back the Calliper Pistons fully so that they have no bearing on the result and then undo the Calliper bolts. Place the ‘feeler gauge’ gently against the Rotor and turn the wheel until it is in the Calliper. Applying very slight pressure on the Calliper while rocking the wheel slightly backward and forward should align the faces of Calliper and Rotor via the inserted feeler gauge as accurately has your filing. When you are satisfied nip up the Calliper bolts.

Doing it this way cuts down on the error in Calliper alignment to the Rotor. Roughen the Brake Pads and Rotor slightly with fine Emery and replace. It has worked a treat with mine. The proof is in how the pads wear down. There should be no difference in lateral or horizontal wear.

P.S.

There is a problem with setting pads this way. With the squeal gone you may have to buy a bell if you haven’t already got one!

Yours Sincerely

Linfitter.
cheers for that info will look into it more , yes i have a bell on .


Rob
 

Robw1uk

Pedelecer
Feb 12, 2009
71
1
Northampton
quick update after re alining , seems alot better hardly any judder on back but looking closer at front pads they look uneven wear so will need to replace them .and back at same time to just incase they are uneven to ..

Rob

And the funny thing is i was out and the only bike i seen this morning was another kudos king lol not seen any round Northampton since i had mine .
 

Robw1uk

Pedelecer
Feb 12, 2009
71
1
Northampton
well seems front pads a bit gone not checked back yet



need new ones , zebb i pmed dave at kudos to check about the pads you was on about to make sure just waiting

Rob
 

Streethawk

Esteemed Pedelecer
Jan 12, 2011
634
16
Yes, time for new pads, when you put them in, re-align the caliper as per d8veh's instructions and you should be fine, as the new pads will be completely flat.
 

Zebb

Esteemed Pedelecer
Jun 13, 2012
371
12
Good luck Rob, I pm the ebay people and asked them, which they said they was correct. if you look on the Tektro site I am sure they are there on the page. I think its under e-sub bike or something like that.
 

Robw1uk

Pedelecer
Feb 12, 2009
71
1
Northampton
Good luck Rob, I pm the ebay people and asked them, which they said they was correct. if you look on the Tektro site I am sure they are there on the page. I think its under e-sub bike or something like that.
Yeah checked it out Zebb ordered them earlier cheers for link .

Rob