hydrolic brakes

[Robw1uk]

Ok update got new pads fitted them but they seem to be rubbing a bit i done what was instructed above to line them back up , do i need to do something to release the pistons or what ever they are called ?

cheers

Rob

 

[Streethawk]

No, they should self adjust. They may rub a little at first, but after a ride they should be fine.

 

[Robw1uk]

No, they should self adjust. They may rub a little at first, but after a ride they should be fine.

Ok cheers thought i better ask befor dont want them wearing out uneven

Rob

 

[Zebb]

What I found on mine (rear brake )was, on the blank side of the calliper, ie none moving side was, that the gap between disk and pad was too close, even after adjusting as per instructions, more so when it was warm ie lots of use.!
Now I am not suggesting what I did was correct it maybe totally a big no no.!
But after F%(%)(*?? around with it for ages, I removed the pad and took some metal of the back of the pad, keeping it as flat as possible so the gap was increased,so after removing said metal, i then reset as per instructions, using lever and re tightening,so what i ended up with is, a brake lever that you had to pull back slightly more to work but no more rubbing.Which did send me over the edge with the constant noise.

I am not suggesting this is correct for yours, I am just saying what I had to do in the end to fix mine.!!
I would not use these brakes again, would also go for cable operated too.

 

[Robw1uk]

What I found on mine (rear brake )was, on the blank side of the calliper, ie none moving side was, that the gap between disk and pad was too close, even after adjusting as per instructions, more so when it was warm ie lots of use.!
Now I am not suggesting what I did was correct it maybe totally a big no no.!
But after F%(%)(*?? around with it for ages, I removed the pad and took some metal of the back of the pad, keeping it as flat as possible so the gap was increased,so after removing said metal, i then reset as per instructions, using lever and re tightening,so what i ended up with is, a brake lever that you had to pull back slightly more to work but no more rubbing.Which did send me over the edge with the constant noise.

I am not suggesting this is correct for yours, I am just saying what I had to do in the end to fix mine.!!
I would not use these brakes again, would also go for cable operated too.

Been out the sound was horrible , so re aligned it again with someone holding brake lever better now just a touch slightly but sure that will disappear , So them pads you linked to are sound and fit ..

Rob

 

[Zebb]

Been out the sound was horrible , so re aligned it again with someone holding brake lever better now just a touch slightly but sure that will disappear , So them pads you linked to are sound and fit ..

Rob

Thats good, I hope you get the problem sorted permanently , I fear it wont go that easy.!

 

[Robw1uk]

Thats good, I hope you get the problem sorted permanently , I fear it wont go that easy.!

Ok hope you didnt order them started to notice a knocking when first apply the brake , its because to hole at the top of the pads are bigger than the ones i had , i didn't really notice it , so will be looking again .. never mind

Rob

 

[Zebb]

Ok hope you didnt order them started to notice a knocking when first apply the brake , its because to hole at the top of the pads are bigger than the ones i had , i didn't really notice it , so will be looking again .. never mind

Rob

Sorry to hear that, I am just trying to picture where the bolt goes through, can they move side to side because of that bigger hole or are they moving in towards the disk.?

 

[Robw1uk]

Sorry to hear that, I am just trying to picture where the bolt goes through, can they move side to side because of that bigger hole or are they moving in towards the disk.?

Here is what i mean i put my back ons in the front for now and new ones in the back as i dont tend to use back alot .. hope this makes sense



Rob

 

[Deleted member 4366]

The size of the hole shouldn't matter because it's the main casting that holds the pad. that screw is only to stop them falling out. Is there a gap at the front and back of the pad when viewed from underneath?

 

[Robw1uk]

The size of the hole shouldn't matter because it's the main casting that holds the pad. that screw is only to stop them falling out. Is there a gap at the front and back of the pad when viewed from underneath?

Im not sure as i have removed them from the front , cant really see the back where i have put then but if i use the back they still shoot forward against the holding bolt ?

Rob

 

[Robw1uk]

checked the back with new pads yeh seems to be a gap front and back to the casting and the pad .

Rob

 

[Deleted member 4366]

I think you've misunderstood me. Look at the caliper from underneath. The two pads sit in a cradle. They should be an exact fit, so they can't move fore and aft. The bolt stops them from sliding down.

 

[Robw1uk]

yeah got what you mean must be they wat i worded it , they seem smaller will take them off later and compare

 

[wd0021089]

d8veh is correct, they should never really judder. Squeaking cant be stopped, but they should be smooth.

I stop the squeaking with a thin layer of Copperslip on the back of the disc brake pad.

 

[Streethawk]

I stop the squeaking with a thin layer of Copperslip on the back of the disc brake pad.

If you have metal pistons that will help, but most bicycle disc brakes use composite plastic pistons, so copper grease wouldn't have any effect. I do use that technique on my motorbike though.

 

[Robw1uk]

If you have metal pistons that will help, but most bicycle disc brakes use composite plastic pistons, so copper grease wouldn't have any effect. I do use that technique on my motorbike though.

i thought the squeeking comes from the pad on disc ? or am i wrong , what is copper slip cause my back one has a mad squeek with new pads

 

[Streethawk]

Sometimes it is, usually on pushbikes it is, although usually on motorcycles and cars it's movement between the pad and piston. Copper slip is a metallic grease, usually used as an anti-seize compound for automotive bolts.