I broke it again, I'm getting good at this.

[Mussels]

Today, about half to work my fat ar5e snapped the seat post.
That's 2 snapped saddles, a snapped seat post and a snapped seat tube, I think the bike's trying to tell me something.

I'm wondering if it's because the frame is slightly too small and I'm sitting too far back on the saddle (that is as far back as it can go). Any clever ideas on how I can shift my weight forward without major modifications?

 

[Straylight]

If you lower the handlebars and adjust them forward slightly, this will put more of your weight onto your arms, and make you sit further forward as it will be more of a stretch to reach them. I'd start by just un locking the bar stem, and pushing the bars forward, this will lower them by default. It's is a finely balanced thing though, because I find that leaning forward too much can put an uncomfortable amount of preasure on my shoulders/palms.

Oh, and a side effect of this adjustment is that it'll help you ride faster by reducing your aerodynamic profile .

 

[Mussels]

If you lower the handlebars and adjust them forward slightly, this will put more of your weight onto your arms, and make you sit further forward as it will be more of a stretch to reach them. I'd start by just un locking the bar stem, and pushing the bars forward, this will lower them by default. It's is a finely balanced thing though, because I find that leaning forward too much can put an uncomfortable amount of preasure on my shoulders/palms.

Oh, and a side effect of this adjustment is that it'll help you ride faster by reducing your aerodynamic profile .

I've got the bars as far forward as they can go already and almost as low as possible. I'd like to change the bars but I think with the Wisper setup I'd have to change the bars, stem and possibly headset all at once and my budget doesn't stretch that far. I considered aero bars but I won't be using them most of the time.

 

[eddieo]

That's tough, so I guess you must be tall........Wisper are introducing a new range of larger framed bikes for Europe (mainly for them tall Dutch bu$$ers) maybe one of these frames would be a better fit?

 

[Bikerbob]

I'm always banging on that the bike should fit the rider and 'one size fits all' isn't a good idea - not much use to you, Mussels, I know. If the bars are already as far forward as possible and the seat as far back and as high as possible I don't know how your riding position could be improved. I'm afraid it is never a good idea to spend money trying to improve a bike that is too small - its always going to be too small. You could try a stronger seatpost this time - I see that one rejoices under the name of 'Nuke proof warhead seatpost'!

 

[Mussels]

That's tough, so I guess you must be tall........Wisper are introducing a new range of larger framed bikes for Europe (mainly for them tall Dutch bu$$ers) maybe one of these frames would be a better fit?

I'm not tall (about 5'9") but as I have become a more regular rider the slightly undersize frame has become more obvious, not enough to warrant a new bike but enough to make me more careful if I ever buy another.
If I used it as an upright bike it would probably be fine but a more sporting position (i.e. normal touring position) has problems. I've got a new seatpost now and it's taller so I can sit a bit higher, that may help.

 

[Mussels]

I'm always banging on that the bike should fit the rider and 'one size fits all' isn't a good idea - not much use to you, Mussels, I know. If the bars are already as far forward as possible and the seat as far back and as high as possible I don't know how your riding position could be improved. I'm afraid it is never a good idea to spend money trying to improve a bike that is too small - its always going to be too small. You could try a stronger seatpost this time - I see that one rejoices under the name of 'Nuke proof warhead seatpost'!

I can see that now but a year ago the number of electric bikes suitable for my commute was one and I didn't have the experience to know what size I needed, it felt huge at the time. The retailer didn't mention size when I was trying them out.
The European Wisper frame sounds ideal as do the 700 wheels but it's a lot of money to improve a minor irritation so I'll have to pass on that one, hopefully the new stronger (old one was a suspension seatpost) and taller post will be fine. The old post had managed about 12,000 miles so it didn't do too bad.

 

[Beeping-Sleauty]

butterflies

I've got the bars as far forward as they can go already and almost as low as possible. I'd like to change the bars but I think with the Wisper setup I'd have to change the bars, stem and possibly headset all at once and my budget doesn't stretch that far. I considered aero bars but I won't be using them most of the time.

How about butterfly bars...? starting at about £10,

beeps

 

[Mussels]

How about butterfly bars...? starting at about £10,

beeps

The Wisper bars are part of a quick adjust stem system and have little teeth around the bar, if they weren't there the stem wouldn't clamp the bar properly. I'll ask Wisper if it can be done but I think it's going to be expensive.

 

[CeeGee]

You can change just the bars with no problems - one of the first things I did on my 2008 905se city was to fit my preferred narrow bars.

Colin

 

[Barnowl]

IThe old post had managed about 12,000 miles so it didn't do too bad.

Agreed, given it was a suspension post, and I'm guessing they're a bit weaker than normal, 12,000 mile life sounds reasonable to me.

 

[Mussels]

You can change just the bars with no problems - one of the first things I did on my 2008 905se city was to fit my preferred narrow bars.

Colin

That's good to hear, new bars on next months shopping list. This months budget has gone on the seat post and a natty gadget to stop the chain keep falling off which is more of a pain than the reach.

 

[Mussels]

You can change just the bars with no problems - one of the first things I did on my 2008 905se city was to fit my preferred narrow bars.

Colin

I'm looking and something like this may be the ticket, do you know what diameter I need?

Butterfly bars are the next to get looked at.

 

[Straylight]

Which chain gadget did you buy? I've been looking for one, but so far haven't seen one that would be compatible with the Wisper setup.

I'd've thought that flat bars would suit your purpose better than ones with an upsweep, to effectively make them lower. Also, looking at the butterfly bars, I can see an issue with the Wisper throttle - you'd have to use it left handed if it's the same 2008 one that I've got.

 

[CeeGee]

Mussels:

Diameter required for the Wisper is the standard 25.4mm size.

Colin

 

[Mussels]

Which chain gadget did you buy? I've been looking for one, but so far haven't seen one that would be compatible with the Wisper setup.

I'd've thought that flat bars would suit your purpose better than ones with an upsweep, to effectively make them lower. Also, looking at the butterfly bars, I can see an issue with the Wisper throttle - you'd have to use it left handed if it's the same 2008 one that I've got.

I've ordered this which I'm hoping will fit, I need to service the BB anyway so I'll find out soon.
I was looking for riser bars that I can point forward instead of up, I'd have to see then in the shop to make sure the angle is right.

 

[Straylight]

I hope it works out for you, I have a 53t chainring, so sadly it wouldn't work for me Still my chain doesn't come off too often, so mustn't grumble

 

[CeeGee]

Mussels,

Here is a pretty foolproof method for fitting new bars to the Wisper.

1: Loosen the "green button", rear brake, and "Hi-Lo" box and push them all to the centre of the handlebars. Remove the handlebar grip on that side.

2: Loosen the gear lever, front brake and throttle.

3: Lift the quick release handlebar clamp and raise bars to maximum. Undo bolt 1 under the handlebars, and if necessary loosen bolt 2. (See Wisper manual). This should free the bars.

4: Standing in front of the bike, push the bars to the right until you have enough free wire to pull the throttle off the end. Repeat for the front brake and gears - making sure the "green button", rear brake, and "Hi-Lo" box still have play in their cables.
Then pull the handlebars to the left all the way through, removing the "green button", rear brake, and "Hi-Lo" box as you go.

Re-assembling.

1: Push new bars through the clamp from the left, fitting on the "Hi-Lo" box", rear brake, and "green button" as you go, and keeping them at the centre.

2: Keep feeding the bars through the clamp until you can slot on the gears, front lever and throttle.

3: Replace the handlebar grip, centre the bars, tighten bolt 2 (if it was loosened) and bolt 1.

Finally tighten the throttle, brakes etc at required angle.

Spend the next few weeks adjusting the angle and height of the bars and angle of brake levers etc until you are happy.

Good luck,
Colin

 

[Phil the drill]

I'm looking and something like this may be the ticket, do you know what diameter I need?

Butterfly bars are the next to get looked at.

Hi Mussels

Be warned fitting a bar with a sharp angle in it can be a problem on the Wisper (I've been caught out myself here). When you come to slide the bar through the quick release stem you may well find that it is not possible to get the sharp bends through the clamp, no matter how loose it is. I guess this is one of the main reasons the Wisper was fitted with a straight bar in the first place .

Phil

 

[CeeGee]

Undo bolt 2 and the whole thing comes apart.
You can then insert the bar in the centre and put the bolts back.
However, you will not have so much bar to play with when refitting the brakes and electrics, and you will probably have to disconnect all the cables if they are wide bars.

Colin