Icompatibility between Different Suppliers' Controllers and Motors.

[eHomer]

I thought it might be of some use to readers of this forum if I posted the end result of my problem with a new controller not working with my existing 750w hub motor. The testing was originally posted on here on a couple of other different threads.

I've found I can no longer assume that a hall effect controller from one supplier will work with a hall effect motor from another supplier, even when voltage and wattage are carefully matched.

I wanted to upgrade to the new controller to get variable PAS and a better LCD panel, but I've now had to revert back to the original more basic controller, and have wasted £75 on the new one.

All possible tests were tried, and even some by d8veh who very kindly offered to check as well. The supplier even very promptly sent a replacement unit from China, free of charge, but that failed to work with my motor as well, and acted exactly the same as the original unit.

So I realise I've just been lucky up to now with my "mix and match" purchases for my other bikes that worked fine with the upgrades.

 

[banbury frank]

Hi If you have a direct drive motor the controller MUST work with it But then I have 7 years experience off rebuilding controllers

If I get a controller from a new supplier the First thing is to strip it and find out how it works no Good asking the supplier they dont make it

cost off evaluating a new controller and making it work £2000 / 5000 and if it fails the cost off testing and sample is lost

All the products we import from china give us the Basic product then we make it work

our workshop costs are £50 per hour

My Kits work and have full SUPPORT Because we rebuild them from the ground UP Making a controller cost £300/£400


Frank

 

[Deleted member 4366]

I don't believe that it's a problem of compatibility. When I put my tester on it, nothing came out of the phase wires and I have the same controller, but mine works with my GNG.

 

[eHomer]

I don't believe that it's a problem of compatibility. When I put my tester on it, nothing came out of the phase wires and I have the same controller, but mine works with my GNG.

You certainly know far more about these things than I do Dave, but that leaves me with only one other possible conclusion.

Both the original controller and the free replacement from the same supplier are non-functional, with presumably the same fault.

What's the chances of that happening, Don't they test them before posting them ?

Interesting prices Frank, but my total loss of £72 investment would only buy just over an hour's worth of professional workshop time. I know that high quality ready-made electric bikes cost a lot of money, but I live on a pension and can only indulge in my passion for bikes on a secondhand and DIY basis, (that does normally get me by ok )

 

[eHomer]

I don't believe that it's a problem of compatibility. When I put my tester on it, nothing came out of the phase wires and I have the same controller, but mine works with my GNG.

This project is still as frustrating as trying to finish a crossword.

Dave's comment about "nothing coming out of the phase wires" keeps haunting me. It's exactly what found with the initial and also the replacement controller.

The hall effect sensors were pulsing correctly when the wheel is turned by hand, and also the speedometer reading on the controller's display unit shows the mph when the wheel is turned, and that is coming from the hall sensors too, (as there's no separate magnet wheel sensor).

The display reads the battery voltage ok, and shorting the red and yellow "keyswitch" wires produces an audible click from the controller.

The more I think about it, the more it seems like a logic problem in the firmware, where the controller is not sending pulses to the motor because of the firmware, rather than faulty components. I've tried thing like switching the PAS off completely, and also trying it full on, but to no avail.

It's as though the keylock wires are expecting a specific resistance or something, rather than a direct short.

Has anyone used a Conhismotor throttle/switch assembly ? Is it just a simple on/off switch ?

 

[banbury frank]

Hi eHomer where in the uk are you

Frank

 

[eHomer]

I'm in Norfolk, right up in the North East corner, (furthest from civilisation !)

Coincidental though, I worked in Banbury a few years ago, right on the roundabout by the cross.