KT-890 to KT-LCD3 set up help

[Headshok]

I fitted my mew LCD yesterday tp replace te KT 890

I set up the wheel size ok and went for a ride and I could see battery volts and ambient temperature, but nothing else worked. even the 1-5 power levels made no difference

I have a 250 watt hub

any suggestions re which settings I should use

prviously the 890 would show speed and battery level via 4 leds and the 3 power levels worked

 

[Nealh]

If the old 890 had 5 wires then is digital so lcd should work.
C11 parameter should be value 0.
Other wise possible data wirgng order is incorrect ?

C10 has a restore function, never tried it though.

 

[vfr400]

The on/off switch, battery indicator, temperaure all work directly in the LCD because the LCD has its own CPU powered by a pair of wires that come directly from the battery.

When you try any function to change something in the controller, like, power level, max current, cut-off voltage, max speed, etc, the LCD's CPU has to send an instruction to the controller's CPU. For the instruction to be carried out, the controller's software needs to be able to understand it, which means that it has to be in the right language (protocols) and the controller's software has to have the instruction in its repertoire.

Ifyou have a Kunteng controller, there's a fair chance that it'll understand at least some of the instructions if you set the right protocols in the LCD's settings.

 

[Nealh]

List the Basic P1 settings and the advanced C11 settings to see if any changes can be made to help in making the system work better.

 

[Headshok]

thanks all I will try tonight - but I don't know how many magnets are in the hub and the reduce ratio in the hub also - so I will try again tonight when I get home

 

[Nealh]

What hub do you have ?
If it's a Bafang then ratio is approx. 4.3:1 & 20 magnets P1 is usually 86/87 for setting.

 

[Headshok]

HI Neal I am hoping you can tell me!

I have no idea what the hub is there are no markings on it other that the stickers shown below!!

 

[Headshok]

setting P8 to 0 has fixed the battery indicator

tried P2 from 0 - 6 and still get no speed reading

 

[Nealh]

P8 there isn't one, do you mean P5 ?

How many motor wires are there, 8 or 9 ?
8 wires means it has no internal speed sensor and will need an external wheel sensor and spoke magnet, if 9 wires then it will have an internal speed sensor.

Hub most likely a copy of a Bafang SWX type, go with 1:4:3 ratio, set 86/87 value for P1 and see how it runs and the speed recorded, compare the speed read out with gps when riding if its within 1km/h then that is pretty good.

 

[Headshok]

P8 there isn't one, do you mean P5 ?

How many motor wires are there, 8 or 9 ? -
8 wires means it has no internal speed sensor and will need an external wheel sensor and spoke magnet, if 9 wires then it will have an internal speed sensor.

Hub most likely a copy of a Bafang SWX type, go with 1:4:3 ratio, set 86/87 value for P1 and see how it runs and the speed recorded, compare the speed read out with gps when riding if its within 1km/h then that is pretty good.

sorry typo I meant p5
I have 9 pins in the connector from the motor 8 around the outside and 1 in the middle - I was getting a speed display in the KT890
I have tried 86 and 87 and run the bike with the drive wheel off the floor on the throttle and still no speed display

 

[Nealh]

P2 value 1 or 6 usually does the trick.

P5 value is only an indication, I use value 12 for 36v and it will show battery level and and shows when the battery is under load/ voltage sagging.

 

[vfr400]

You're wasting your time playing with those parameters until you have the basic protocols set, which is C11. You know it's correct when you can see the watts changing on the right of the display. Once you have that you can set the throttle and PAS parameters and anything else if you need to.

You should set P5 back to what it was before. It affects the time over which the battery voltage is averaged. For 36v, it sould be around 10. The higher the number, the slower it registers changes. At 0, it will jump about as the voltage goes up and down, which isn't very useful. With it set to a high number, it might take a minute of use before you can see that you charged the battery..

 

[Headshok]

I have now done a C11 reset and guess what - speed and distance now work! Also on Power 5 it cuts out at 16mph as expected.

So the lesson here is that even though it was new out of the box yesterday - you still need to do a C11 reset!

 

[Headshok]

Ok 10 miles on it now and everything works but the 1-5 power settings don't make any difference, the PAS support is not maximum but its quite high.

Settings are currently
P1=133
P2=1
P3=0
P4=0
P5=8

C1=2
C2=0
C3=8
C4=0
C5=10
C6=3
C7=0
C8=0
C9=0
C10=n
C11=1
C12=2
C13=0
C14=2

Any ideas?

 

[vfr400]

P3 should be set to 1. At the moment, your PAS is set to speed control instead of power control.

 

[Nealh]

How man poles in the magnet disc as C1 can have an affect.
C14 PAS strength signal try value 3.
Other wise main one is as D8ve has said P3 value 1 for current control, you will certainly feel the different power levels.

 

[Headshok]

thanks I will try your suggestions this morning I have a 12 magnet disc on the Bottom bracket.

 

[Nealh]

thanks I will try your suggestions this morning I have a 12 magnet disc on the Bottom bracket.

Just checking, C1 value 2 is correct.

 

[Headshok]

Thanks all P3 was the issue

on my old 890 unit there were 3 power levels so it was very noticeable moving between them - but on the LCD3 it feels much more subtle, I will look forward to getting used to it.

 

[vfr400]

It's the difference between speed control, where for each level you get the same power but a different speed limit, and power control, where you get the same speed but a different power for each level.