KT LCD5 C and P Settings

[Waspy]

So I have a KT controller and LCD5 and KT-V12L PAS on the way.

I have a 36v battery and a 250w motor in a 20" 406 rim.

I will not be using a throttle or brake cut-offs.

Please help me understand the P and C settings.

So the way I understand it:

C1: Topbikekit says C1=7 for the KT-V12L

P4=1 for a no throttle, PAS only system

C4=0 also for a no throttle, PAS only system

P5=12 for a 36v battery

P1: Topbikekit says P1=201 for a 20" wheel.

C5=10 for max current

C14=3 for max pedal assist

Does all this sound about right?

 

[saneagle]

C4 should be 3 to make the throttle legal. The setting is P4=1 and C4 =3 to get 4 mph walk assist (completely independent) plus throttle power only when you're pedalling.

P1 is nothing to do with wheel size. You set the wheel size in the basic settings. P1 tells the controller the number of pulses you get from a hall sensor per wheel rotation. It then calculates the speed from that and the wheel size. It uses that speed for the cut-off. The displayed speed comes independently from the speed sensor and is not used for the cut off. P1 is the number of magnets in your motor times the reduction ratio because that's what causes the pulses.

If you don't know the number of magnets and reduction ratio, you can guess, then use the GPS in your phone to see what the actual cut-off speed is, then adjust P1 up or down to get it to what you want.

P2 is what the LCD uses to display the speed. You must set it to 1 or 6, depending on how many magnets in your speed sensor - normally 1. The default is zero, which you should only use if you don't have a speed sensor.

 

[thelarkbox]

When it comes to the pas sensor config settings my kt lcd manual is a prime example of oblique Chenglish. in the end i spent a fraction of the time i spent re-reading and second guessing just cycling through the 5 or 6 options until it worked.. -no harm-

 

[Waspy]

C4 should be 3 to make the throttle legal. The setting is P4=1 and C4 =3 to get 4 mph walk assist (completely independent) plus throttle power only when you're pedalling.

P1 is nothing to do with wheel size. You set the wheel size in the basic settings. P1 tells the controller the number of pulses you get from a hall sensor per wheel rotation. It then calculates the speed from that and the wheel size. It uses that speed for the cut-off. The displayed speed comes independently from the speed sensor and is not used for the cut off. P1 is the number of magnets in your motor times the reduction ratio because that's what causes the pulses.

If you don't know the number of magnets and reduction ratio, you can guess, then use the GPS in your phone to see what the actual cut-off speed is, then adjust P1 up or down to get it to what you want.

P2 is what the LCD uses to display the speed. You must set it to 1 or 6, depending on how many magnets in your speed sensor - normally 1. The default is zero, which you should only use if you don't have a speed sensor.

I don't have a throttle.

So, after a lot of reading it would appear the AKM95 motor has 20 magnets and possibly a reduction ration of 4.4. So 4.4x20=88.

So that will be my starting position: P1=88. P2=1 See how it goes

 

[saneagle]

I don't have a throttle.

So, after a lot of reading it would appear the AKM95 motor has 20 magnets and possibly a reduction ration of 4.4. So 4.4x20=88.

So that will be my starting position: P1=88. P2=1 See how it goes

You should get a throttle if you can. It's very useful. I use mine many times every time I ride my bike

 

[Waspy]

You should get a throttle if you can. It's very useful. I use mine many times every time I ride my bike

Yeah, maybe I should. I bought one for my Trek. I tried it one day and didn't really find a use for it, so I removed it.

The KT controllers and LCDs seem to be expecting to find a throttle and I have read your arguments on other threads about their benefits.

Are throttles generic or do you need a specific KT one? Same question for brake cut-offs.

 

[saneagle]

Yeah, maybe I should. I bought one for my Trek. I tried it one day and didn't really find a use for it, so I removed it.

The KT controllers and LCDs seem to be expecting to find a throttle and I have read your arguments on other threads about their benefits.

Are throttles generic or do you need a specific KT one? Same question for brake cut-offs.

All throttles work the same with three wires. You just have to connect the wires in the right sequence, so sometimes you have to mess about with pins and connectors. Avoid any throttle that has lights, keys, screens or anything like that. Plain ordinary thumb throttle is the best.