Kudos Tornado - Project - recommend me a new controller?

[redcup1999]

I recently picked up a second hand Kudos Tornado which had a fault.

Although the display worked, the speedometer wasn't registering and assist was limited to one level - the buttons on the display to adjust assist level appeared to have no effect other than changing the number on the display.

On getting home and "fiddling" with a few things (connections etc) the display started showing Error 30 - which is a communication error. Searching shows this is likely to be either:
a) Dodgy wiring
b) Broken display (J-LCD King Meter)
c) Damaged Controller

The slight smell of burning from the controller box led me to believe the problem was likely to lie with c).

On opening up the controller I found the following:
There are burnt components on the left hand side in the first photo.

So I assume the controller is toast and I need a new one.

The last photo shows the details of the currently fitted controller. Maximum current is 14A. I would quite like to upgrade to 18A if possible for a bit more grunt.

So please can anyone recommend me a controller that is:
a) Compatible
b) reasonably priced (this is meant to be a cheap project!)

I don't mind waiting for it to be shipped from China, ideally I want something that is plug and play (there are "lots" of small black plastic clips).

Any help appreciated - the plan is to fit a new controller, see if it works. If not, I will check the wiring and then move on to a new lcd if necessary.

 

[Nealh]

Controller is a Lishui , Woosh might sell you one but that may be 20a Big Bear ones or contact Kudos Dave/Kudoscycles . Some of the Lishui's run either sensored or unsensored.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

You need to show us the connectors if you want plug-and-play.

 

[redcup1999]

Here's a picture of the wiring harness.

Still on the bike so not hugely clear.

From what I can see:
a) 3 green "bullet" connectors that go to the motor. Yellow, Green, Blue
All other connectors are Black Plastic Connectors
b) 5 pin to LCD - Red, Blue, Black, Green, Yellow
c) 3 pin to throttle - Black, White, Red
d) 3 pin to rear brake - Red, Yellow, Blue
e) Red / Black - straight to battery from controller (no connector I can see, but not stripped all the outer protection yet
f) Two pin red / brown appear to loop back to 3 pin red, yellow, blue to controller - the blue is not connected
g) 3 pin - red / white / black also appears to go off to motor.
h) 3 pin red / white / blue goes to PAS sensor

Kudos seem to be closed today so may need to leave calling them until the new year - hopefully we can come up with an alternative supplier.

Happy to replace both LCD and controller if cheap enough (£<60) if it means I get a "better" system.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

The red white and black that goes to the motor is the speed sensor. There's no hall sensor wires, so your motor is sensorless.

BMSBattery do the S09P. Only the throttle connector is different, though there's no reason why you shouldn't cut the connectors off and twist the wires together if you can't solder. The S09P is a bit bigger than your one, so probably won't fit in the box, which meand you get one of those triangle tool bags and stick it in there, which is easier. The S09P is 22 amps, so you get 50% more power. The LCD uses current control, so when you use the lower settings, it'll be the same as your old controller. Level 1 will be similar, but level 4 on the new one will be the same as your old level 5, and the new level 5 will be like turbo mode. You have to order the LCD separately (S-LCD3 recommended)

If you don't want that much power and you want to use the old controller's box, you can get the S06P, which is smaller and only 14 amps, so the same as your old one.

Another good controller is this one because it's very cheap. It has the correct throttle, PAS and speed sensor connectors, but the wrong brake ones. It's 14 amps.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/24v36v48v250w350w-controller-LCD-display-manual-control-panel-dashboard-for-electric-scooter-ebike-moped-mtb-tricycle-dualmode/32464390144.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.0.dDWcfV

Whatever controller you get, you need to check that the wires in the connectors match before connecting. There's no fixed standard for their sequence in the connector. it's fairly easy to change them round if they're wrong.

One or both of those controllers will have the wrong battery connectors too.

With both of them, you'll need a new LCD, which means threading the connector through, which can be a little tedious. have a look on your bike to see where it goes. You won't be able to use your old LCD, which is probably broken and the cause of your woes anyway.

 

[redcup1999]

The red white and black that goes to the motor is the speed sensor. There's no hall sensor wires, so your motor is sensorless.

BMSBattery do the S09P. Only the throttle connector is different, though there's no reason why you shouldn't cut the connectors off and twist the wires together if you can't solder. The S09P is a bit bigger than your one, so probably won't fit in the box, which meand you get one of those triangle tool bags and stick it in there, which is easier. The S09P is 22 amps, so you get 50% more power. The LCD uses current control, so when you use the lower settings, it'll be the same as your old controller. Level 1 will be similar, but level 4 on the new one will be the same as your old level 5, and the new level 5 will be like turbo mode. You have to order the LCD separately (S-LCD3 recommended)

If you don't want that much power and you want to use the old controller's box, you can get the S06P, which is smaller and only 14 amps, so the same as your old one.

Another good controller is this one because it's very cheap. It has the correct throttle, PAS and speed sensor connectors, but the wrong brake ones. It's 14 amps.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/24v36v48v250w350w-controller-LCD-display-manual-control-panel-dashboard-for-electric-scooter-ebike-moped-mtb-tricycle-dualmode/32464390144.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.0.dDWcfV

Whatever controller you get, you need to check that the wires in the connectors match before connecting. There's no fixed standard for their sequence in the connector. it's fairly easy to change them round if they're wrong.

One or both of those controllers will have the wrong battery connectors too.

With both of them, you'll need a new LCD, which means threading the connector through, which can be a little tedious. have a look on your bike to see where it goes. You won't be able to use your old LCD, which is probably broken and the cause of your woes anyway.

Perfect - thanks! Just the answer I was looking for.

S09P and S-LCD3 ordered - with luck will be up and running next week.

Will have to dig out the soldering iron, but I'm more a software than hardware kind of guy!

 

[redcup1999]

Quick update on this.
The bits arrived within about 10 days. Shipped from Hong Kong. No customs bill yet, but I am expecting one soon.
All hooked up - had to move a few connectors around as wires didn't match up.
Wiring diagram from BMS was not quite accurate - but I'm almost there now. The only thing not working at the moment is PAS. When I plug that in, the throttle stops working and and the LCD display shows the battery icon as "empty" (but with a voltage of 41.8v still).
I suspect a wiring mistake on my part - will investigate when I have time (probably next weekend now).

 

[Deleted member 4366]

One of the connectors (probably the PAS) has the wires out of sequence.