Lights

[steve.c]

Hi. I have just bought a Cree Ultrafire 502B front light and can't believe how bright it is!! It lights the whole lane (I live in the west country and a lot of my riding is in very narrow lanes ) the trees and everything else for about 30 yards brilliant? It's rated at 1000 lumens???? And would recommend anyone to buy one. Steve.

 

[electric_avenue]

That's a torch though isn't it, not a bike light?

 

[aseb]

I looked at the torches but decided a bike light version would be better- the beam will be designed specifically for a bike. It uses the same T6 emitter as the 502B but has other advantages over the torch for bike use. I like the low power settings for town use (battery life) and the little led that warns when the battery is getting low.

spec:
[LED Lamp] XML-T6 high power LED, lifespan more than 50,000 hours.
[Luminous flux] 1000 Lumens
[Mode of light] Four modes of light setting (High light/Medium light/Weak light/Flash light), with memory function.
The brightness of each mode as follows:
High Light Mode: 100% Medium Light Mode: 50%
Weak Light Mode: 10% Flash Light Mode: 100%
[Reflector] Vacuum plating Orange-peeled Aluminum Reflector, Thermostability, no abscission and perfectly light beam.
[Switch] Soft-touch to change the mode of light, press it and hold for 3 seconds to power off.
[Voltage Indicator] End cap switch with the voltage indicator, enough voltage condition, the indicator with green color, when the voltage run low, the indicator will change to red color. At this time, the battery can still last for about 20 minutes in high bright mode or 4 hours in low bright mode.
[Battery] Battery pack with 4pcs rechargeable 18650 Li-Ion battery with protective circuit board.
Capacity: 4400mah, Voltage: 8.4Volts;
Working time: continuous work more than 3 hours in high bright mode, more than 30 hours in weak bright mode.

 

[tillson]

I have used lights from DealExtreme and found them to be excellent. Their range of lights are here and some go up to 1600 Lumen output.

 

[kitchenman]

I've got 2 sets of lights. One set is the integrated set that comes with my Cytronex system and one set that is powered from a fron hub dynamo. I dont know how to work out my Lumen output! ... Also, I dont know if I can change the lights (without changing the wiring) and have brighter or better coverage. If someone could ..enlighten me .. (sorry!) ... I would be grateful.

 

[mikep]

At this time of year, like a lot of other people, my attention is turned to lights and what is available and fit for a given purpose. My riding will include unlit quiet country roads, a busy unlit single carriageway and lit roads, oh, and the odd cow / horse / pheasant in the middle of the country lanes.

There seem to be two main types of bike light that are readily available:
1. The fairly standard style low output light designed for urban riding on lit roads.
2. The LED based lights (little more than torches) aimed at the MTB market for nightime country trekking, where high lumen / lux is the order of the day, with an uncontrolled beam to identify any obstacles at head level.

The former is inadequate for unlit roads and being seen, the latter will get you seen but is a potential hazard for other road users unless dimmed; because these lights tend not to have any form of reflector / beam control technology, incorrectly mounted they will blind oncoming cyclists, car drivers / animals with potentially lethal outcome.

There are only a couple of lights that I have found that meet my criteria:
1. The Phillips Safelight (80 lux version) - PHILIPS Philips LED Bike Light 80 Lux - buy cheap at bikester.co.uk

2. The Magicshine 816 - Magicshine MJ-816 3 head 1400 lumen bike light - this can also be found on eBay under different names.

Another option is the Exposure Strada at substantially more money.

Despite certain design quirks in terms of limited high power running time (in built timer!) I think the Philips seems to offer the best combination of light output and beam control for seeing both distance and wide foreground.

Have I missed any other models?

Regards

Mike

 

[Pedalo]

At this time of year, like a lot of other people, my attention is turned to lights and what is available and fit for a given purpose. My riding will include unlit quiet country roads, a busy unlit single carriageway and lit roads, oh, and the odd cow / horse / pheasant in the middle of the country lanes.

There seem to be two main types of bike light that are readily available:
1. The fairly standard style low output light designed for urban riding on lit roads.
2. The LED based lights (little more than torches) aimed at the MTB market for nightime country trekking, where high lumen / lux is the order of the day, with an uncontrolled beam to identify any obstacles at head level.

The former is inadequate for unlit roads and being seen, the latter will get you seen but is a potential hazard for other road users unless dimmed; because these lights tend not to have any form of reflector / beam control technology, incorrectly mounted they will blind oncoming cyclists, car drivers / animals with potentially lethal outcome.

There are only a couple of lights that I have found that meet my criteria:
1. The Phillips Safelight (80 lux version) - PHILIPS Philips LED Bike Light 80 Lux - buy cheap at bikester.co.uk

2. The Magicshine 816 - Magicshine MJ-816 3 head 1400 lumen bike light - this can also be found on eBay under different names.

Another option is the Exposure Strada at substantially more money.

Despite certain design quirks in terms of limited high power running time (in built timer!) I think the Philips seems to offer the best combination of light output and beam control for seeing both distance and wide foreground.

Have I missed any other models?

Regards

Mike

I've been using the Exposure Strada for a while on a similar journey as yours and can highly recommend it. I posted a review here. : Exposure Strada Review
As you say though it is a tad expensive. New lights which I think look interesting for commuters are those available from Lezyne and the Niterider minewt 600. Both much cheaper than the Strada but provide decent output. I'm trying to get hold of those for review.

 

[tillson]

At this time of year, like a lot of other people, my attention is turned to lights and what is available and fit for a given purpose. My riding will include unlit quiet country roads, a busy unlit single carriageway and lit roads, oh, and the odd cow / horse / pheasant in the middle of the country lanes.

There seem to be two main types of bike light that are readily available:
1. The fairly standard style low output light designed for urban riding on lit roads.
2. The LED based lights (little more than torches) aimed at the MTB market for nightime country trekking, where high lumen / lux is the order of the day, with an uncontrolled beam to identify any obstacles at head level.

The former is inadequate for unlit roads and being seen, the latter will get you seen but is a potential hazard for other road users unless dimmed; because these lights tend not to have any form of reflector / beam control technology, incorrectly mounted they will blind oncoming cyclists, car drivers / animals with potentially lethal outcome.

There are only a couple of lights that I have found that meet my criteria:
1. The Phillips Safelight (80 lux version) - PHILIPS Philips LED Bike Light 80 Lux - buy cheap at bikester.co.uk

2. The Magicshine 816 - Magicshine MJ-816 3 head 1400 lumen bike light - this can also be found on eBay under different names.

Another option is the Exposure Strada at substantially more money.

Despite certain design quirks in terms of limited high power running time (in built timer!) I think the Philips seems to offer the best combination of light output and beam control for seeing both distance and wide foreground.

Have I missed any other models?

Regards

Mike

The LED lights that I have linked to above are worth looking at. They aren't torches and some have several different modes of brightness.

By using the appropriate mode and sensible mounting of the light, no one has died.

 

[amigafan2003]

Check out fibre lights as well to increase visibility.

 

[aseb]

Check out fibre lights as well to increase visibility.

led strips are cheap on ebay, amber for the sides. They are 12V but theres nothing to stop you connecting in series to run at an ebikes battery voltage.

 

[aseb]

I have used lights from DealExtreme and found them to be excellent. Their range of lights are here and some go up to 1600 Lumen output.

I considered the 3 head lighting but adding extra lumens from a second and third light never seems to add the amount of light you think when looking at the result. Using the 1600 lumens doesn't seem 60% better than just the 1000 lamp on its own. Again there were comparison pics on those torch review sites so I settled on 1000 lumens after looking at the others too. The emitter makes a big difference to the light - the newer P6 is superior to the earlier cree emitters. Then there's always the opportunity to increase the light by increasing the voltage at the cost of life- but 50,000 hours of light dropped by half still gives nearly 3 years of continuous light. Most people don't have the lights on 24 hours a day so it's a pretty good life- there's every chance it will be replaced for some other reason before the emitter packs in.

Bottom line is there are some wonderful lights out there now, whatever the spec sheets say there are many that will do a good job for you. And no blown bulbs after a few hours or tens of hours like there used to be. I remember the bulbs seemed to blow when either you were in a place with no streetlighting or going over potholes. Never at home. And the spare bulb you carefully stashed away has the glass bulb smashed. And the batteries needed regular changes. This is one area that has definitely improved!

 

[flecc]

I remember the bulbs seemed to blow when either you were in a place with no streetlighting or going over potholes. Never at home. And the spare bulb you carefully stashed away has the glass bulb smashed. And the batteries needed regular changes. This is one area that has definitely improved!

Indeed, improved beyond recognition! The horrors of the past, blown bulbs, corroding zinc-carbon batteries, seized and rusting pressed tin threads to get at bulbs, all gone for ever thank goodness. Remember these:

 

[Pedalo]

I remember having the 'modern' version:

Ever Ready Night Rider

They worked fine as long as it didn't rain. After then the light would only work intermittently and you had to reach over and slap the light every time it went out to bring it back to life.

 

[aseb]

Flecc

Yes, I do. And the water that used to create a pool behind the lens. The glass bulb in your hand with the threaded part still in the holder when you tried to change the bulb. The rust was rotting everything not just the threads. Gripping the thread to tight distorted that lens retainer making it even harder to take on and off. What were the alternatives- I seem to recall they were the best choice at the time. Was there even a choice?

Indeed, improved beyond recognition! The horrors of the past, blown bulbs, corroding zinc-carbon batteries, seized and rusting pressed tin threads to get at bulbs, all gone for ever thank goodness. Remember these:

 

[mike killay]

Flecc

Yes, I do. And the water that used to create a pool behind the lens. The glass bulb in your hand with the threaded part still in the holder when you tried to change the bulb. The rust was rotting everything not just the threads. Gripping the thread to tight distorted that lens retainer making it even harder to take on and off. What were the alternatives- I seem to recall they were the best choice at the time. Was there even a choice?

One of those was my pride and joy once upon a time! had a rear lamp from Woolworths that had a lead to power it from the front lamp battery.
Remember leaving them on the mantlepiece overnight to squeeze the last drop of juice out of them when on morning shift?

 

[eTim]

I have gone for Two Hope Vision 1's on the bars of the Haibike, these are great for off-road cross country and country lanes, a single one is sufficient, but two are better giving good depth and flood.

For twisty single track where you need to 'see' where you are going, a head mounted light of some sort is needed, a few friends have gone for helmet mounted Joysticks which are ultra light (no pun intended) and do the job well, but are expensive and dedicated MTB helmet lights. I have just ordered a Fenix HP20 which is cheaper and more versatile but is bulkier, less sexy and a bit more of a fiddle, but the batteries can stay warmer when it gets really cold, lots of choice and configurations out there

I've just added a cheap flasher to augment the Busch & Muller lights that come with the Cytronex's as they are really good for the road anyway.

I've also had to buy a ton of AA rechargeable's and I seem to spend a lot of time recharging nowadays, but it's all part of the fun.

 

[Haku]

This is what gives me daylight during night riding:

300 3mm LEDs of brightness above the wheel and testing a further 120 LEDs on the forks (60 each side), powered from the bike's battery and only uses 10-12 watts when on full beam.
The setup will soon be transferred to my newer (and much cleaner) ebike.

What I really like about using a bunch of 3mm LEDs instead of one or two powerful LEDs is the beamspread, I don't get a blinding spotlight effect from them, more a gradual tapering off from the center which when shone along an unlit path lights it up very evenly.
Also, having the lights permanently attached and powered from the bike's battery means never having to worry about charging up a separate battery or remembering to put them on/take them off to stop anyone stealing them.

 

[steve.c]

That's a torch though isn't it, not a bike light?

Don't care what t is it's brilliant.

 

[overlander]

These are pretty bright, a massive increase in power from the previous version. I have the 1400 version and they are fantastic but they are not 100% reliable which is a shame. I have all sorts of problems with the charger and battery indicator but my main issue is they are so easy to overheat. You really do need to keep moving or they step down in brightness. I now use a hope 1 as a backup.

 

[overlander]

Forgot to say, that i also recommend the hope 1's as a good commuting light. They are a solid piece of engineering and unlike the niteriders they work. You do need to budget for a good few sets of AA rechargeables, i find that the 2800ma energizers work fine in them but the powerex batteries are also good. So i reckon you can add another £30 to the price of the lights for two sets and more if you need a charger.