motor clicking fault

currymonster

Finding my (electric) wheels
Mar 20, 2013
15
1
Hi All
any chance of a bit of technical advice
I purchased a kit from BMS (500w rear hub 36v- no battery)
I have a second hand electric bike and fancied upgrading it as a project for off road purposes.
wired it all as per diagram but when I operate the throttle all I get is a clicking sound from the hub motor and no rotation.
The battery is a 36v 10a good condition.
I have tried swapping the Phase wires round but that makes no difference.
I hope thats enough info
any ideas would be greatfully recieved

thanks
Currymonster
 
D

Deleted member 4366

Guest
Hi All
any chance of a bit of technical advice
I purchased a kit from BMS (500w rear hub 36v- no battery)
I have a second hand electric bike and fancied upgrading it as a project for off road purposes.
wired it all as per diagram but when I operate the throttle all I get is a clicking sound from the hub motor and no rotation.
The battery is a 36v 10a good condition.
I have tried swapping the Phase wires round but that makes no difference.
I hope thats enough info
any ideas would be greatfully recieved

thanks
Currymonster
First of all: Until you get the motor working properly, don't open the throttle past about 30% or you'll blow the FETs in the controller. If you've already done it, you'll be OK as long as you didn't hold it open for a long time.

Next thing: You battery isn't powerful enough for that motor unless it's a special high discharge one. Even if the motor was working normally, your BMS will trip every time you go up a hill. This assumes that you want to use the KU123 controller that comes with the motor. As a short term measure, you can solder a third of the shunt in your old 15 amp controller to get it up to about 20 amps, which your battery might just be able to handle.

Now the clicking: Is the connector near the motor fully home. There's a line around the inner that has to line up with the rim of the outer. If that's OK, try disconnecting the 5-way white hall sensor connector to force it to run sensorless. Don't mess about with the phase wires. Just connect them colour to colour. The controller has automatic phase angle and sequence detection. You can use your new controller for testing. It'll be OK at low power.

Can we have some more details about your project? Photos would help. Which controller do you have? Which motor is it, BPM 1 or 2? Front or rear?
 

currymonster

Finding my (electric) wheels
Mar 20, 2013
15
1
Hi there thanks for the reply.
It's a Q128 rear hub motor 400-500w 36v not sure if its a bmp 1 or 2
Also it is a KU123 controller.

The old controller is only rated at 10amp so not sure I can push it that hard.
What type of battery would you suggest for that set up. I spoke to bms battery's but they weren't very helpful.

I have now decided to put the old battery bike back to standard and start from scratch with a secondhand bike. Now I've purchased a kit.
 
D

Deleted member 4366

Guest
Hi there thanks for the reply.
It's a Q128 rear hub motor 400-500w 36v not sure if its a bmp 1 or 2
Also it is a KU123 controller.

The old controller is only rated at 10amp so not sure I can push it that hard.
What type of battery would you suggest for that set up. I spoke to bms battery's but they weren't very helpful.

I have now decided to put the old battery bike back to standard and start from scratch with a secondhand bike. Now I've purchased a kit.
I tried a Q128, with a KU123, and it didn't make any more power than it did with a KU93, which was barely noticeably different to a KU63. I concluded rightly or wrongly that it gets saturated round about 20 amps. The power was about the same as a 250w Bafang, but it was smoother and quieter. Martx007 runs his 36v one with a 48v battery and a KU93, and he's happy with it like that. I think that 48v would be better than 36v. I wouldn't use the KU123 at 48v because I think that 1800w will be too much for that little motor.

For a battery, i'd go for 15aH with a ku93, or 20aH if you need more range.
If you stick with your KU123, you need 20aH at 36v and 15aH at 48v.


For information, the BPM motor is different. It's bigger, stronger and gives a lot more torque