Motor cuts under load

[anon4]

And I know I'm a guinea pig, knew it wouldn't be easy but its a bigger can of worms than I bargained for lol

 

[wheeliepete]

As far as removing the BMS, carefully does it. Looks like the +/- battery connections are top and bottom on the left, with the screws in them. The smaller connections down both sides marked B1-B9 are the small balance wires. These are all connected to the pack and need to be insulated as they are disconnected to prevent shorting out.

 

[anon4]

It is not an option I would risk a battery fire is a spectacular thing it will not go out or a burnt out pcb might cost a small fortune to replace the other option is a yose power battery it is £172.00 delivered for the 14.5 ah + the cost of the new controller and display

Could this not be prevented with a simple fuse? Thats all my old bike had, no BMS at all

 

[peter.c]

The learning curve is steep and with so many new problems to solve but it must be near the point where the cost out weighs the gains as you have found its not a quick fix now

 

[anon4]

The learning curve is steep and with so many new problems to solve but it must be near the point where the cost out weighs the gains as you have found its not a quick fix now

I still need to see if the new controller works, I still think it's just over the amp limit

 

[peter.c]

the bms also regulates the charge an balance of the cells each cell is like a mini bomb if you get it wrong , I talked to a pro builder this week who lost a 5k bike to a battery fire one faulty cell and it was a total loss

 

[wheeliepete]

Maybe you are right to try your new controller first before you do any work on your battery. BTW, where abouts are you?

 

[anon4]

Maybe you are right to try your new controller first before you do any work on your battery. BTW, where abouts are you?

North east, Washington

 

[anon4]

As far as removing the BMS, carefully does it. Looks like the +/- battery connections are top and bottom on the left, with the screws in them. The smaller connections down both sides marked B1-B9 are the small balance wires. These are all connected to the pack and need to be insulated as they are disconnected to prevent shorting out.

Just hooked up directly to the pack + and - to test. Still cuts out. Damn thing is smart

 

[peter.c]

top marks for effort but if its closed system as I suspect each bit looks for a handshake from the next in the chain and the one below they want to service in house only, fault diagnosis by their software by approved dealer and return to factory it is sold tamper proof and a return for service main dealer cash cow it is the selling point to a chain like Halfords can only imagine how secure the bosch system is

 

[anon4]

top marks for effort but if its closed system as I suspect each bit looks for a handshake from the next in the chain and the one below they want to service in house only, fault diagnosis by their software by approved dealer and return to factory it is sold tamper proof and a return for service cash cow it is the selling point can only imagine how secure the bosch system is

So removal is the only way it seems. I added bullet connectors so I can easily revert to the original config, not that it made any difference. Sick now, hope the 13a controller doesn't trip the system

 

[peter.c]

Do not think its the total current but it is looking for a signal or sensor output from the original controller
the new uk spec bbs01 250watt has limit of 15 amps written into the firmware now trips an error code when you try to increase it other versions allow increase to 20amps

 

[anon4]

Do not think its the total current but it is looking for a signal or sensor output from the original controller
the new uk spec bbs01 250watt has limit of 15 amps written into the firmware now trips an error code when you try to increase it other versions allow increase to 20amps

Sound like what this is doing as works fine with no load.

 

[peter.c]

I am glad it you and not me I think it might have had a close encounter with the 4 pound hammer by now or ended up on ebay
I think the only affordable way is to find a software update if the system is sold in the us market or non eu [ higher speed limit] then the problem will be how to flash it, the other way if you really love the bike is to replace the lot or sell it and start fresh

 

[anon4]

I am glad it you and not me I think it might have had a close encounter with the 4 pound hammer by now or ended up on ebay
I think the only affordable way is to find a software update if the system is sold in the us market or non eu [ higher speed limit] then the problem will be how to flash it, the other way if you really love the bike is to replace the lot or sell it and start fresh

I knew the risks, I like to tinker. The bike as a bike is really nice, if I end up having to buy a new battery then so be it. Just trying to avoid that but think BMS replacement is beyond me

 

[peter.c]

We all like to tinker that's why we build or adapt but to do a jigsaw when you do not have a circuit diagram or all the parts is beyond my skills
I strongly suspect you will not give up have you talked to the guy on here doing the throttle conversion he seems good with the software

 

[anon4]

We all like to tinker that's why we build or adapt but to do a jigsaw when you do not have a circuit diagram or all the parts is beyond my skills
I strongly suspect you will not give up have you talked to the guy on here doing the throttle conversion he seems good with the software

Wife is home, going to plug it into hers and see what happens. The bike I mean

 

[anon4]

Well it ran ok with the wife's bike fingers crossed it will play with the new controller

 

[anon4]

Well I've learned that these batteries are also for use with the vengeance which is bafang system. They have a 15a controller. That must be the limit and the one I was using must peak higher than that. I am confident my new controller will work now