My New Build

[Waspy]

So this is my 2002 Trek 4300 I converted about 3 years ago and a wonderful thing it is too.

But, I've decided I need a folding bike because:

a) I like building bikes
b) Putting my full size bike in the car is a right old pfaff, I can just chuck a folder in the back without even flattening the rear seats and zoom off to Devizes (30 minutes away) and enjoy the delights of the kennet and Avon canal towpath for miles (other canals are available).
c) The n+1 formula or whatever the formula is.
d) It annoys the wife.

So, after taking advice from our resident folding bike expert Peter.Bridge, I decided on a Carrera Intercity Disk 8. After a lot of private messaging with Peter, he has been nagging me to start a post about this build , so here it is.

The reasons for choosing the Carrera Intercity Disk 8 are:

a) aluminium frame
b) steel forks with 100mm dropouts
c) 20" wheels with 406 rims, for those that are curious 20" rims come in two sizes, 406 for fat(ish) tyres and 451 for skinny tyres.
d) Disk brakes (very important)
e) 8 speed cassette

After much looking on eBay, Gumtree and Marketplace I finally did a deal with a guy from Worcester who was willing to meet me half way. And I got it for 100 quid, which is very cheap, they often go for double that or more.

This is the sorry spectacle of the seller's photo:

For reasons unknown the previous owner fitted a comfort saddle (no complaints from me) and a pair of hideous elephant grey tyres.

Since I collected it I have changed the tyres for black ones. Also changed the chain (obvs) with a low mileage 8 speed chain I had in my shed.

The removed chain (look away now, if you're squeamish):

I have changed many other components too, but more about that in my next post.

I spent a lot of time removing all the fasteners etc. de-rusting, greasing, reassembling.

Stay tuned for the next instalment, lots more pics to come.

 

[saneagle]

I keep getting spammed by these on Aliexpress - very handy for hiding a controller and wires if you're going to have a front motor. Personally, I'd go for a rear motor because of the simpler wiring with everything apart from the LCD on the back half of the frame.

 

[Waspy]

I keep getting spammed by these on Aliexpress - very handy for hiding a controller and wires if you're going to have a front motor. Personally, I'd go for a rear motor because of the simpler wiring with everything apart from the LCD on the back half of the frame.

Spammed by what? I'm interested.

I have ordered a front wheel kit from Yosepower.

 

[saneagle]

Spammed by what? I'm interested.

I have ordered a front wheel kit from Yosepower.

Sorry, it's these. Note that they're not as big as they look in the photo. They're approcimately 10" x 5" x 5"

NEWBOLER 2.5L Foldable Brompton Bag Quick Release Bicycle Front Bag Hard Shell Bike Bag Waterproof For Brompton Folding Bike - AliExpress

Smarter Shopping, Better Living! Aliexpress.com

www.aliexpress.com

 

[Waspy]

Sorry, it's these. Note that they're not as big as they look in the photo. They're approcimately 10" x 5" x 5"

NEWBOLER 2.5L Foldable Brompton Bag Quick Release Bicycle Front Bag Hard Shell Bike Bag Waterproof For Brompton Folding Bike - AliExpress

Smarter Shopping, Better Living! Aliexpress.com

www.aliexpress.com

The Carrera M6 tapped holes are 30mm apart

The Brompton are 25.7mm apparently

I have ordered one of these for a laugh, which might open some options for me (two week delivery wait )

Alternatively, I could bolt a plate to the front of the Carrera with two countersunk bolts. The plate could have two tapped holes 25.7mm apart.

But I keep thinking a rear rack option would be better.

 

[Waspy]

Sorry, it's these. Note that they're not as big as they look in the photo. They're approcimately 10" x 5" x 5"

NEWBOLER 2.5L Foldable Brompton Bag Quick Release Bicycle Front Bag Hard Shell Bike Bag Waterproof For Brompton Folding Bike - AliExpress

Smarter Shopping, Better Living! Aliexpress.com

www.aliexpress.com

There are also these options from TBK:

The second one is 48v. I have no idea if I can use a 48v battery with a Yosepower 20" front hub kit. Would you happen to know?

 

[Peter.Bridge]

Woosh do the bag batteries too - as I recall the shipping from tbk was pretty expensive

There are a couple of sellers on Ali that were recommended here

Ebike Cycling Store and Dsaikl DT Battery Store(Trader)

They do the short rear rack batteries with battery cradle - you have to message them to get what you want - they can do Samsung / Panasonic celled batteries

eg


I think 48V would possibly work, but just have to be careful with the internal gears, how much power going through them

 

[Waspy]

So anyway, putting the battery problem aside for a minute.

Here is the bike with a pair of BMX 20x2.0 Halfords tyres fitted and the chain has been replaced with a used but decent 8 speed chain I had in my shed.

Also, I thought all handlebars were fixed on folding bikes but I discovered that on this bike you can fit any 25.4mm handlebars you want, so I fitted these ones I had in my shed.

Also, while undoing everyhing to clean/grease, I cound find no way to remove this hinge pin. It is not an allen head or even a rounded off allen head, it is just a circular indentation on one side and just a plain pin on the other.. I gave it a few hefty thumps with a hammer and drift from each side but it won't budge. It works OK so I think I'll just leave it alone.

 

[matthewslack]

Those tyres are rather puncture prone, but Halfords don't offer many options.

Check the rim width if you decide to go Marathon Plus: many 406 rims are only 19mm, and I can't get the wider 47-406 to seat on my first set of trailer wheels.

 

[Tony1951]

So anyway, putting the battery problem aside for a minute.

Here is the bike with a pair of BMX 20x2.0 Halfords tyres fitted and the chain has been replaced with a used but decent 8 speed chain I had in my shed.

Also, I thought all handlebars were fixed on folding bikes but I discovered that on this bike you can fit any 25.4mm handlebars you want, so I fitted these ones I had in my shed.

Also, while undoing everyhing to clean/grease, I cound find no way to remove this hinge pin. It is not an allen head or even a rounded off allen head, it is just a circular indentation on one side and just a plain pin on the other.. I gave it a few hefty thumps with a hammer and drift from each side but it won't budge. It works OK so I think I'll just leave it alone.

I wonder if that dimple in one end of that hinge pin was formed by some sort of riveting process and has swelled the pin inside the hole at that end. Just imagining how it might be formed, if the flat end of the pin was supported on a flat surface in some sort of hammer press and a domed, or pointed tool was whacked in the other end, dimpling the pin and swelling it, it might behave as you describe when you tried to drift it out. If I am right in this guesswork, it just might be drifted out from the plain side, but not the indented one.

As you say, if you don't need to dismantle it, just lubricate the hinge if you can. I can see reasons why the manufacturer would not want that pin to be loose enough to gradually work its way out of the steerer. Swelling a softish metal pin at one end would stop that happening.

 

[saneagle]

The Carrera M6 tapped holes are 30mm apart

The Brompton are 25.7mm apparently

I have ordered one of these for a laugh, which might open some options for me (two week delivery wait )

Alternatively, I could bolt a plate to the front of the Carrera with two countersunk bolts. The plate could have two tapped holes 25.7mm apart.

But I keep thinking a rear rack option would be better.

The listing for the bag says that it doesn't include the adapter. The adapter is here, but no dimensions:

https://www.aliexpress.com/p/tesla-landing/index.html?scenario=c_ppc_item_bridge&productId=33004389884&_immersiveMode=true&withMainCard=true&src=google&aff_platform=true&isdl=y&src=google&albch=shopping&acnt=494-037-6276&isdl=y&slnk=&plac=&mtctp=&albbt=Google_7_shopping&aff_platform=google&aff_short_key=UneMJZVf&gclsrc=aw.ds&&albagn=888888&&ds_e_adid=&ds_e_matchtype=&ds_e_device=c&ds_e_network=x&ds_e_product_group_id=&ds_e_product_id=en33004389884&ds_e_product_merchant_id=109215703&ds_e_product_country=GB&ds_e_product_language=en&ds_e_product_channel=online&ds_e_product_store_id=&ds_url_v=2&albcp=17859500389&albag=&isSmbAutoCall=false&needSmbHouyi=false&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=17190468917&gbraid=0AAAAADznYb-qqdk3-5mxj5qLAndtKebfQ&gclid=CjwKCAjw7_DEBhAeEiwAWKiCC9vklP_qL-47W7X9vNRZ6lSBH3dc-1PtWmhYg_z6a8QQlaSBzDw0dhoCe_UQAvD_BwE

 

[Waspy]

I wonder if that dimple in one end of that hinge pin was formed by some sort of riveting process and has swelled the pin inside the hole at that end. Just imagining how it might be formed, if the flat end of the pin was supported on a flat surface in some sort of hammer press and a domed, or pointed tool was whacked in the other end, dimpling the pin and swelling it, it might behave as you describe when you tried to drift it out. If I am right in this guesswork, it just might be drifted out from the plain side, but not the indented one.

As you say, if you don't need to dismantle it, just lubricate the hinge if you can. I can see reasons why the manufacturer would not want that pin to be loose enough to gradually work its way out of the steerer. Swelling a softish metal pin at one end would stop that happening.

I like your thought process. I think I'll give it some squirt and just leave it alone.

Unlike the magnetic latch which is used for keeping the two folded halves together. I cannot keep such a nasty part on the bike. Believe it or not you can buy exact replacements from Ali Express for peanuts. I have a new one arriving on Friday (apparently) and that will be the last job of sorting the bicycle out before the electrification process begins.

 

[Waspy]

The listing for the bag says that it doesn't include the adapter. The adapter is here, but no dimensions:

https://www.aliexpress.com/p/tesla-landing/index.html?scenario=c_ppc_item_bridge&productId=33004389884&_immersiveMode=true&withMainCard=true&src=google&aff_platform=true&isdl=y&src=google&albch=shopping&acnt=494-037-6276&isdl=y&slnk=&plac=&mtctp=&albbt=Google_7_shopping&aff_platform=google&aff_short_key=UneMJZVf&gclsrc=aw.ds&&albagn=888888&&ds_e_adid=&ds_e_matchtype=&ds_e_device=c&ds_e_network=x&ds_e_product_group_id=&ds_e_product_id=en33004389884&ds_e_product_merchant_id=109215703&ds_e_product_country=GB&ds_e_product_language=en&ds_e_product_channel=online&ds_e_product_store_id=&ds_url_v=2&albcp=17859500389&albag=&isSmbAutoCall=false&needSmbHouyi=false&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=17190468917&gbraid=0AAAAADznYb-qqdk3-5mxj5qLAndtKebfQ&gclid=CjwKCAjw7_DEBhAeEiwAWKiCC9vklP_qL-47W7X9vNRZ6lSBH3dc-1PtWmhYg_z6a8QQlaSBzDw0dhoCe_UQAvD_BwE

There are so many brackets, adapters etc. for Bromptons, it's mind-boggling.

But those two holes on the Carrera are just crying out to be used for something. Peter.Bridge certainly found uses for them.

 

[Waspy]

So, the next job was the drive train, the front 52 tooth chainwheel was cleaned and checked and seemed fine.

The rear had a Shimano Claris derailleur and a Shimano 8 speed 12-32 cassette.

This picture has the replacement chain fitted.

I replaced the cassette for a nice, little used chrome plated Shimano 11-28 cassette. All these parts came from an old Giant hybrid I had to break up because the frame got damaged.

Now the problems started, the derailleur started making a lot of noise in certain gears, I tried all I could but couldn't fix it. The derailleur hanger is straight. Does this cage look bent to you?

So, now I fitted a Shimano Alivio derailleur from the Giant and everything is now working good. Looks a lot better too, I'm sure you'll agree. This picture still has the old brake fitted, which gets replaced in my next post.

 

[saneagle]

So, the next job was the drive train, the front 52 tooth chainwheel was cleaned and checked and seemed fine.

The rear had a Shimano Claris derailleur and a Shimano 8 speed 12-32 cassette.

This picture has the replacement chain fitted.

I replaced the cassette for a nice, little used chrome plated Shimano 11-28 cassette. All these parts came from an old Giant hybrid I had to break up because the frame got damaged.

Now the problems started, the derailleur started making a lot of noise in certain gears, I tried all I could but couldn't fix it. The derailleur hanger is straight. Does this cage look bent to you?

So, now I fitted a Shimano Alivio derailleur from the Giant and everything is now working good. Looks a lot better too, I'm sure you'll agree. This picture still has the old brake fitted, which gets replaced in my next post.

Those brakes are going to have to go pretty quick. I cringe every time I see them in your photos.

 

[guerney]

I like your thought process. I think I'll give it some squirt and just leave it alone.

Unlike the magnetic latch which is used for keeping the two folded halves together. I cannot keep such a nasty part on the bike. Believe it or not you can buy exact replacements from Ali Express for peanuts. I have a new one arriving on Friday (apparently) and that will be the last job of sorting the bicycle out before the electrification process begins.

I bought that exact one, it rusted fast and now looks like the one it replaced. Both work. Is it less costly in time and isopropyl etc. to clean, or buy a new one? Depends on how much your time is worth I guess.

 

[scription]

Those brakes are going to have to go pretty quick. I cringe every time I see them in your photos.

I don't want to hijack but I'm new to all this, can you tell me what's up with the brakes?

 

[saneagle]

I don't want to hijack but I'm new to all this, can you tell me what's up with the brakes?

They're cable-operated disc brakes. They have one fixed pad and one that is moved by the cable. In order for both pads to touch the disc and clamp it, the disc has to bend. As the fixed pad wears, the disc has to be bent more to clamp it. Basically, the braking is inconsistent, and it deteriorates as the pads wear. They work sort of OK when everything is adjusted properly, but hardly anybody does it or even kows how to do it.

If the pads wear too much or they're not properly adjusted, the lever on the caliper can go over top dead centre when you apply the brake hard. Instead of a braking force, you get a click and no braking, which obviously is extremely dangerous.

They can be replaced with hydraulic ones that don't cost much, are easy to install (about 5 mins) and need virtually no maintenance in the lifetime of the bike, and still give consistent and reliable braking. It's no contest between the two types.

 

[Waspy]

I bought that exact one, it rusted fast and now looks like the one it replaced. Both work. Is it less costly in time and isopropyl etc. to clean, or buy a new one? Depends on how much your time is worth I guess.

I'm going to smear the new one with grease before it gets put away for the winter. I only cycle in spring, summer and autumn.