New hydraulic disc brakes

[Parsons]

Hi guys looking for a new set of hydraulic disc brakes for my ebike conversion.
Looking for a cheap set for what to choose was looking at
Shimano m315
Zoom
Clarks M3

 

[vfr400]

Forget Zoom and Clarks, which don't seem to last. Have a look on EBay for used ones. You can often get decent ones in perfect condition for about £40 a pair.

Make sure you get the right hose length. You can cut them down if you buy a new olive, but lengthening them is more complicated. If you're careful when you cut them down, you don't need to bleed them as any air at the lever end self-bleeds.

Also, if you want to put them on a bike with a throttle, look for some that are the right shape to give clearance. Some levers run close to the handlebars, others are off-set away from the bars.

 

[Nealh]

M315 levers are a bit spindly, if you can go for M395/445 /446 as the levers are a bit stronger, the callipers in this series of brakes are the same twin port actuating ones.
The Shimano's offer very good braking for a relatively cheap outlay with only initial setting up required after that they are fit & forget except for a pad change once every year or two (mileage dependant).

 

[Parsons]

Thanks for the reply mate yes my ebike as a throttle .was also looking at AliExpress with built-in electric cut-off to connect to the controller but I think the hydraulic disc brakes will be cheap anyway but I think they do a modified Shimano one on there m315
I've got Clarks EXO Skeletal Hydraulic but won't new updated set

 

[Geoff Sleath]

I bought a Trek FX3 hybrid a few weeks ago which I've converted to FWD electric motor. It has Shimano M315 hydraulic discs which I find both powerful and controllable. I would certainly recommend them. I would certainly avoid second hand - even new they're not expensive and I've paid a lot more for good quality caliper brakes in the past.

I don't have a throttle fitted though there is one supplied with my conversion kit. That's got nothing to do with the brake levers but with the fact that there's insufficient room on the handlebars because of the shape.

I assume you have a frame set with disc brake braze-ons. I wouldn't advise using bolt-on clamps at least on the forks. Forks with disc brake braze-ons are relatively cheap - certainly cheap if you value your safety. Brakes are not an area worth economising on in my experience.

btw I didn't bother with adding motor cut switch equipped brake levers even before I had the Trek. The levers are poor quality and if I'm braking I'm certainly not pedalling (does anyone have motor assist single fixed?)

Geoff

 

[vfr400]

I buy all my hydraulic brakes second hand and have done for many years - something like 20 pairs. I never had a problem with any of them. You just need to be sensible when you look at the listings. If they describe them as like new, that's what they'll be like from EBay because you're covered by PayPal if they wrongly describe. Many are taken off new bikes because the owner preferred a different type. Obviously avoid "needs new pads" and "just need bleeding".

Regarding brake cut-offs. There's a regulation that says you need them if your motor doesn't cut within a set time or distance from when you stop pedalling. The cheaper controllers often run on beyond that, so technically you'd need them but no one is checking that, however, some run on for a long time, which renders your brakes completely ineffective. For those, brake cut offs are essential. Also, if you smash your throttle, it goes to half-throttle signal, and if you try to stop the motor with your brakes, you blow the controller. That's why some day cut offs are advisable when you have a throttle

 

[Parsons]

Thanks guys for your input will take a look on ebay etc etc I've got the auto cutoff sencers that you mount to the brake levers but the shape of my brakes make it hard to mount