Hi all, my integrated lights are no longer working on my Orbea Gain. I notice that the lights are supposed to be controllable using the iWoc controller. However, following the instructions does not work. I say short press the button then when flashing press and hold until yellow. This should toggle the lights on and off. The problem is I don't know if the light is on or off at the actual switch on the side of the light! I don't seem to have time to toggle it while the iron is yellow. Any help would be appreciated.
Orbea gain lights
- Thread starter rickyboy
- Start date
If there are accessible connectors then you could test the lamps separate from the control system, and also see if power gets to the connector. Disturbing the connectors might fix a dirty contact issue.
Is it an old bike and a new problem?
Is it an old bike and a new problem?
It's a few years old but not used much. The iwoc instructions are confusing but may not even be relevant to the Orbea Gain. They should come on when the bike is powered on as long as the actual light switch is on. It's located on the side of the front light.
Delving inside with curiosity and a multimeter would be my next step. If there is power to the switch, follow the wires, test the lamps. If not, deeper trouble!
Might be an idea to purchase a set of lights just so you keep safe.(if not owned already)
How built in is the lamp with the overide switch? sorry not familiar with your bike.
If an accessible aspect of the bike it seems opening and inspecting/cleaning/testing the switch is clean and functional, as well as confirming the on/off positions would be a good first step.
A simple voltage test will confirm if power is reaching the lamp/switch in the first place with access to the switch contacts and if not you can look further back along the power feed and its connections to validate if the bike is supplying the lights with power in the first place.
If an accessible aspect of the bike it seems opening and inspecting/cleaning/testing the switch is clean and functional, as well as confirming the on/off positions would be a good first step.
A simple voltage test will confirm if power is reaching the lamp/switch in the first place with access to the switch contacts and if not you can look further back along the power feed and its connections to validate if the bike is supplying the lights with power in the first place.
Yes I have multiple sets but just get annoyed when things stop working. I can't leave as is.
I seem to be getting around 5v at the plug when the lights are turned on by the Pulsar one. When I put a meter across the light terminals I get a reading when the meter is set at continuity or 1.985 with the light swith pressed twice so effectively turning on and off. I'm not sure what to expect as there is a pcb in the circuit.
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Hi I appear to be getting around 5v at the plug that goes to the light. Not sure what I should see across the pins on the light as they are connected to the led light via a pcb.
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Thats a very promising sign, indicating the problem is with the lamp or its switch.
and being a mechanical aspect the switch should be the prime candidate imho
If the switch is the problem? it can be fully disassembled a cleaned /repaired and rebuilt in all likelyhood and youtube will provide a guide. you could also buy some expensive de-oxit a commercial electrical contact cleaner more aggressive than a flush out with wd40 (always worth a try..) but its £££ for a tiny volume. and unclipping a switch and cleaning with an abrasive pad/file is free worst case a replacement switch can probably be sourced..
OR you could simply hard wire the lights ON?
and being a mechanical aspect the switch should be the prime candidate imho
If the switch is the problem? it can be fully disassembled a cleaned /repaired and rebuilt in all likelyhood and youtube will provide a guide. you could also buy some expensive de-oxit a commercial electrical contact cleaner more aggressive than a flush out with wd40 (always worth a try..) but its £££ for a tiny volume. and unclipping a switch and cleaning with an abrasive pad/file is free
worst case a replacement switch can probably be sourced.. OR you could simply hard wire the lights ON?
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