Oxygen E-Mate Drive Train Failure

vfr400

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Jun 12, 2011
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It has all the symptoms of a duff battery or duff battery connection.. All the other faults would self reset, so you wouldn't need to switch it off and on again. Are you sure you didn't have your meter on "hold" when you did the previous measurements.any fault that requires switching off and on to reset would be between the controller and the battery.

Those batteries often suffered from broken solder joints on the back of the key-switch, which would cause that fault.

Can you show a picture of the controller and its wires in case it's not original.
 
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JohnD135

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Aug 24, 2020
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Is it a duff battery? I rechecked, this time being careful to connect the meter on the controller side of the supply from the battery. I was concerned that those horrible little connectors that they use might be defective. I still have the same problem and the voltage stays high at 41Volts or so. I am technically competent with power FETS and the like, but electronic commutation in motors is well after my time. Perhaps I should replace the controller, if a suitable one is available? Pictures of controller attached.
 

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vfr400

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Just one more time because I'm not sure I have the story straight. When the motor cuts out, does the LED control panel go off and needs to be switched on again to get going again or does it remain firmly on?
 

JohnD135

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Aug 24, 2020
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Everything stays firmly on. All power supplies (4.72V) stay up, as does the 41V into the controller. The lights on the display all stay up with full battery indicated. My test is to tilt the back wheel off the ground and twist the throttle. The wheel rotates at a good rate. I then lower it towards the ground, just touching, and the wheel slows. Firmer contact with the ground will result in a sudden lose of power and lifting again from the ground, the wheel rotates very slowly. This will not recover until the system is switches off and on again. Through all this the lights and power supplies stay on.
 

vfr400

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Jun 12, 2011
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Everything stays firmly on. All power supplies (4.72V) stay up, as does the 41V into the controller. The lights on the display all stay up with full battery indicated. My test is to tilt the back wheel off the ground and twist the throttle. The wheel rotates at a good rate. I then lower it towards the ground, just touching, and the wheel slows. Firmer contact with the ground will result in a sudden lose of power and lifting again from the ground, the wheel rotates very slowly. This will not recover until the system is switches off and on again. Through all this the lights and power supplies stay on.
OK, that's quite unusual. something is messing up the controller. it could be a fault in the controller or in the motor cable. The motor cable is a little tricky to repair, but can be done. Without another motor to try, I would take a gamble on the controller, though my suspicion is that it's the cable that has the fault. You can get a bit of extra chance by buying a dual-mode controller that can run with and without the hall sensors.

I'm pretty sure that this one is compatible with your existing display. You'll have to change the connector for the hall sensors or try running sensorless without them connected first. I think all the other connectors are right, but you should always check that the wires are in the matching sequence in the connector.
Alternatively, you can use the Brainpower one that comes with an LCD for not a lot more, though there might be a bit more that you have to do with connectors.

A new controller will fix it if the problem is in the controller or if it's one of the hall wires that's damaged. I think if it is a damaged cable, it's more likely that a hall wire is damaged than a phase wire because of their size, so I reckon the controller has about a 70% chance of fixing your problem as long as your motor runs OK sensorless. Some are better than others, but I think yours should be OK. It's the high reduction ratio ones that give problems the most. The KU65 has always been pretty good at sorting out difficult motors. I don't have any experience running sensorless with the Brainpower one.
 
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JohnD135

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Aug 24, 2020
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Hi.
So I bought the KU65 and it has finally arrived. The connectors are different, so I am trying to sort out what is what. The connections to the motor and battery seem obvious and the colours are the same. Then the three pin connector to the hall sensor on the crank seems ok. But then it gets difficult! Is there a list of connections on the new controller and what they do so that I can trace the wires on the bike to match things up? I would be happy to get an expert to do this for me but everyone I called was not keen!
 

JohnD135

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Aug 24, 2020
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I have just noticed. You said the "no led" was probably the one. But, regrettably, I bought the 36v one. Could this be a problem?
 

JohnD135

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Aug 24, 2020
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A little more assistance please. As I was tracing the wires so that I could change the connectors on the controller, I noticed that the wire to the RH brake lever sensor had broken. The LH one is still ok. I have no excuse for not spotting this! Could this be my problem? I also notice that my LED display is 790 rather than the 810 I have bought.
 

vfr400

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Jun 12, 2011
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A little more assistance please. As I was tracing the wires so that I could change the connectors on the controller, I noticed that the wire to the RH brake lever sensor had broken. The LH one is still ok. I have no excuse for not spotting this! Could this be my problem? I also notice that my LED display is 790 rather than the 810 I have bought.
The brake sensor is exactly that. It just gives info to the controller's cpu that the brake is on. The CPU would then cut the motor, but you have to reset with the key. The key wouldn't affect that.
 

Nealh

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Aug 7, 2014
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Problem with brake sensors is when one malfunctions you don't know which one, I only use one on the rear. Two brake cut outs are just not necessary.
 

JohnD135

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Aug 24, 2020
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Good point. But I only knew I had them after the wire fell off. Do you happen to know what the sensor is please?
 

Nealh

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Aug 7, 2014
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Two wires indicate a simple reed sensor.
 

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