Pedal assist not working

[jbenn43457]

Hi, I fitted my wife's bike with a front wheel kit, about 7 years ago. It's 36v, controller is kt36zwsrjdf01r. The kit came with a left side pas, its got hollowtec 2 cranks so I had to bodge the magnetic ring on. Its always been a bit vulnerable so I want to move the pas to the right side and have the magnetic ring on the chainring. First time I moved the original pas and the motor only worked when peddling backwards. I bought a rhs pas, which won't work at all. I've got 4.5v at the connector. Someone said I'd have to alter the settings, but the display won't go to the c settings. Should I get a different display, if so, which one? Many thanks

 

[thelarkbox]

Have you tried flipping the magnet disk side facing the sensor?

Otherwise a pas cadence sensor is a pretty generic item so ebay/aliexpress etc for options so you can pick any that suits your bike/preferences. just pay attention to the connector type used to make the 3x connections.

Edit.. Just noticed the KT prefix on your controller label/id. if your as using a lcd display google for he 20+page pdf manual detailing the config settings.. (eg ktlcd-03)
iirc here are 5x options and my manual version went full on chenglish confusing me so i just tried each option until it worked.. - Worth checking before buying a new sensor..

 

[jbenn43457]

Have you tried flipping the magnet disk side facing the sensor?

Otherwise a pas cadence sensor is a pretty generic item so ebay/aliexpress etc for options so you can pick any that suits your bike/preferences. just pay attention to the connector type used to make the 3x connections.

Edit.. Just noticed the KT prefix on your controller label/id. if your as using a lcd display google for he 20+page pdf manual detailing the config settings.. (eg ktlcd-03)
iirc here are 5x options and my manual version went full on chenglish confusing me so i just tried each option until it worked.. - Worth checking before buying a new sensor..

Hi, I've got a couple of pas and have tried the magnetic ring all ways. I believe I need to get into the c settings menu, but my display won't do it. I'm asking for reccomendations for another suitable display I guess

 

[thelarkbox]

There are a number of ktlcd displays as well as some 'dumb' led displays, The ktlcd-03 is popular, i use a ktlcd-10 (very similar), afaik any lcd display will give you access to the config parameters, but a quick google for the relevant pdf manual should confirm if in doubt before buying a more esoteric option..

with both the v3 and V10 you can use the lcd display with a null modem connection to a 'dumb' led display to transfer the configuration ..

topbikekit is a frequently referenced chinese seller, and other aution sites/shopping portals will probably have options.. post links of items under consideration if you want confirmation any are ok..

be mindful to select the correct plug termination type.

 

[saneagle]

Hi, I fitted my wife's bike with a front wheel kit, about 7 years ago. It's 36v, controller is kt36zwsrjdf01r. The kit came with a left side pas, its got hollowtec 2 cranks so I had to bodge the magnetic ring on. Its always been a bit vulnerable so I want to move the pas to the right side and have the magnetic ring on the chainring. First time I moved the original pas and the motor only worked when peddling backwards. I bought a rhs pas, which won't work at all. I've got 4.5v at the connector. Someone said I'd have to alter the settings, but the display won't go to the c settings. Should I get a different display, if so, which one? Many thanks

You can use any of the KT LCDs except LCD1, which is, I guess ,the one you have. The 12 magnet pedal sensors are often handed, so you can't change sides unless you want to pedal backwards. If I were you. I'd get an 8-magnet pedal sensor, as they give the least problems and they're cheaper, and I challenge anybody to see the difference in a blindfold test. You should also get a throttle if you don't already have one and set P4=1, C4=3 to make it legal as a power boost.

 

[Nealh]

Hi, I fitted my wife's bike with a front wheel kit, about 7 years ago. It's 36v, controller is kt36zwsrjdf01r. The kit came with a left side pas, its got hollowtec 2 cranks so I had to bodge the magnetic ring on. Its always been a bit vulnerable so I want to move the pas to the right side and have the magnetic ring on the chainring. First time I moved the original pas and the motor only worked when peddling backwards. I bought a rhs pas, which won't work at all. I've got 4.5v at the connector. Someone said I'd have to alter the settings, but the display won't go to the c settings. Should I get a different display, if so, which one? Many thanks

If PAS works in back pedal mode then one simply needs to flip the mag disc face over , magnets as one likely knows have a N or S face .

 

[saneagle]

If PAS works in back pedal mode then one simply needs to flip the mag disc face over , magnets as one likely knows have a N or S face .

Only if it's not one of those 12 magnet dual sensor handed ones.

 

[jbenn43457]

There are a number of ktlcd displays as well as some 'dumb' led displays, The ktlcd-03 is popular, i use a ktlcd-10 (very similar), afaik any lcd display will give you access to the config parameters, but a quick google for the relevant pdf manual should confirm if in doubt before buying a more esoteric option..

with both the v3 and V10 you can use the lcd display with a null modem connection to a 'dumb' led display to transfer the configuration ..

topbikekit is a frequently referenced chinese seller, and other aution sites/shopping portals will probably have options.. post links of items under consideration if you want confirmation any are ok..

be mindful to select the correct plug termination type.

Thanks, I've ordered one.

 

[jbenn43457]

You can use any of the KT LCDs except LCD1, which is, I guess ,the one you have. The 12 magnet pedal sensors are often handed, so you can't change sides unless you want to pedal backwards. If I were you. I'd get an 8-magnet pedal sensor, as they give the least problems and they're cheaper, and I challenge anybody to see the difference in a blindfold test. You should also get a throttle if you don't already have one and set P4=1, C4=3 to make it legal as a power boost.

It's already got a throttle, it's old enough to be legal, but I might change the settings anyway, thanks.

 

[jbenn43457]

There are a number of ktlcd displays as well as some 'dumb' led displays, The ktlcd-03 is popular, i use a ktlcd-10 (very similar), afaik any lcd display will give you access to the config parameters, but a quick google for the relevant pdf manual should confirm if in doubt before buying a more esoteric option..

with both the v3 and V10 you can use the lcd display with a null modem connection to a 'dumb' led display to transfer the configuration ..

topbikekit is a frequently referenced chinese seller, and other aution sites/shopping portals will probably have options.. post links of items under consideration if you want confirmation any are ok..

be mindful to select the correct plug termination type.

Followed your advice and it worked! Now the speed reading is all over the place, going to 0 when I stop pedaling, any suggestions? Thanks again

 

[thelarkbox]

Ive only read the manual for setting my own bike up Im afraid, the P parameters that precede the C set in the config procedure should set up the metrics for speed iirc, I dont have the pdf on this puter and am too lazy to check right now tbh..

speed readings only when pedalling?? if different from before?? is there a spare wire not connected for a speed sensor ( tho could be a side effect of settings?? ) - it suggests speed is calculated from cadence pulses and not from a motor sensor?? (yes i am wading out of my depth here) .

 

[Nealh]

If one has an erratic odo reading then either one doesn't have an internal hub Hall sensor /speed magnet or the number of magnets entered for P2 is incorrect.
Most hubs have one internal magnet some may have six so P2 should be 1 or 6.
One will know if the hub has an internal speed sensor /magnet as there will be nine pin outs/wires for a sensored hub and six for an unsensored hub.

Once one finds the Odo to be near normal , if the cut off speed is wrong then P1 will need adjusting to get the Odo reading nearly correct using a GPS will help to dial in the P1 value better.

 

[saneagle]

Followed your advice and it worked! Now the speed reading is all over the place, going to 0 when I stop pedaling, any suggestions? Thanks again

Simple answer: Set P2=1. If that doesn't fix it, you need to fit a wheel magnet type sensor.