I've converted this 1990s shogun bike using a 24 volt Alien kit. I've used it regularly for a almost year now. Not happy with the whole conversion and it has been a learning experience. There's been issues with the Frame (mainly), Kit integration -it works perfectly but poorly integrated (really need opinions on this!), as a result the general bike functions have been compromised! Now I'm going to rebuild I could do with some advice from all you fellow ebikies!
Frame:
It was an ok choice of bike to convert in the sense that it has a steel frame and forks. But has been to restrictive in a number of other features which have been specific to this choice of frame:
Its a road frame and the fork/front wheel toe clearance is small
There's a restriction on tire size
Prefer an A-headset for more rigidity and less headset bearings play
It does not have the modern 135mm drop out at the back, its narrower so restricted to 7 speed (not a major biggy but less space to play with)
A lot of those points will be cured simply with a modern and more robust hybrid frame...
Kit Integration:
The battery position under the saddle tends to bounce a bit on bumpy roads, and the frame does not handle the weight well -badly balanced! Now it is bolted secure properly. So one big question I have is if anyone would know - is the 36 volt back carrier battery mount (alien conversion set up) much more stable? Can anyone think of a fix to this problem -if there was a frame which had specific clearance somewhere for an electric conversion set up or even a best choice frame?...
With the throttle on the handlebars I've had trouble finding a decent gear shifter set up. Tried a normal set up with rapid fire gear levers on both sides – the rapid fire lever on same side as the throttle to control the Rear gears was very awkward. Now have both gear controls on the left to control both rear gears and front gears (See Picture). Leaving the right hand free to control the throttle. It is an improvement but if anyone has had similar issues or could advise on this!?
So I'm not as confident about the bouncy battery and gear lever issue! I've read a lot of old post relating to aliens! Hehe... Anyway thanks for in advance for any advice
Vinnie
Frame:
It was an ok choice of bike to convert in the sense that it has a steel frame and forks. But has been to restrictive in a number of other features which have been specific to this choice of frame:
Its a road frame and the fork/front wheel toe clearance is small
There's a restriction on tire size
Prefer an A-headset for more rigidity and less headset bearings play
It does not have the modern 135mm drop out at the back, its narrower so restricted to 7 speed (not a major biggy but less space to play with)
A lot of those points will be cured simply with a modern and more robust hybrid frame...
Kit Integration:
The battery position under the saddle tends to bounce a bit on bumpy roads, and the frame does not handle the weight well -badly balanced! Now it is bolted secure properly. So one big question I have is if anyone would know - is the 36 volt back carrier battery mount (alien conversion set up) much more stable? Can anyone think of a fix to this problem -if there was a frame which had specific clearance somewhere for an electric conversion set up or even a best choice frame?...
With the throttle on the handlebars I've had trouble finding a decent gear shifter set up. Tried a normal set up with rapid fire gear levers on both sides – the rapid fire lever on same side as the throttle to control the Rear gears was very awkward. Now have both gear controls on the left to control both rear gears and front gears (See Picture). Leaving the right hand free to control the throttle. It is an improvement but if anyone has had similar issues or could advise on this!?
So I'm not as confident about the bouncy battery and gear lever issue! I've read a lot of old post relating to aliens! Hehe... Anyway thanks for in advance for any advice
Vinnie
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