please help sunlova kit information advise needed needed

[stormb22]

good evening all , i have sent a number of posts reguarding my sunlova kit which i have had nothing but trouble with i would very much appreciate information from anyone that may have had problems with this kit or any advise from any experts .earlier in the week my battery for this kit packed up i had just charged it and got about half a mile down the road and the battery gauge shot to red ,when i got home the battery would not charge as soon as i plugged it in the charger showed the green light and would not start to charge . previously i had a problem with the battery terminal box (the wires inside melted) and a problem with the controller which did not seem to be letting enough power through.when i contacted sunlova they said they would send out a new controller but could i fix the wires myself which i did however sunlova have now told me that i have damaged the battery because i had modified the wiring and it had shorted out(and burned the battery inside) .i changed the wires to thicker because the existing ones were far to thin and in my option caused them to melt in the first place. surely it there was a short the fuse would had blown before damaging the battery? any advise or information would be appreciated .

 

[stormb22]

i should point out the picture is of the inside of the terminal box the first time it melted since then sunlova sent me a new box and the same has happened again 2 weeks later (this time damaging battery )the two red wires you see were slightly welded together when i opened the box

 

[Deleted member 4366]

I've just done some checks on mine and I found out that the switch does not switch the 36v directly. It seems to be connected in the BMS and works at a lower voltage so it might be OK to have the thin wires considering the current that they might carry. There has been more than one instance of them melting and shorting out, which could be because of insulation problems, or maybe the current is still quite high.

I've measured the voltages on the pins and I get these rusults using the thick black as pin 1
switch off:
Between Pins 4 and 5 33v
All other pins open

switch on:
Between pins 1 and 5 41v
Between pins 1 and 2 17v
Between pins 4 and 5 24v

Looking at your photo, it looks like pins 1 and 2 are bridged by solder causing a dead short to something in the BMS. I guess that's your problem, in which case Sunlova would be correct and it's your fault. Hopefully, it's only the BMS that's damaged and the cells might be still OK, but I can't tell without opening up the battery.

Can you confirm that pins 1 and 2 are shorted before deciding on the next step, because if they're not, it's a different situation.

 

[banbury frank]

Hi

I have looked at you previous posts and you have fitted a larger 350 watt controller Drawing more amps and modified the wiring

That is why your battery has failed

Don't Blame the Sunlova

Buy a new Heaver duty battery this link for a 36 volt battery with a BMS continues 20 Amp output

36V9Ah LiFePO4 Alloy Shell EBike Battery Pack - BMSBATTERY

Sorry for being so blunt


Frank

 

[Scottyf]

mine looked different to this. There was never 4 wires attached. But then again i was issued a different battery which meant the switch on the rack and carrier became useless. I.ve opened the battery up on the sunlova kit where sometimes the soldering on the bms is a little suspect an failed when i ran a larger controller.

It failed when returning from the fuse. I had to re solder it.

Cells where all fine and hitting 41.96v on a full charge.

You'd have to open up the battery to really see whats happened.

 

[stormb22]

the battery in the link has a 10a continuous discharge current am i not looking for one with a 20a discharge current ? or if so i would pay the extra for the bigger battery if i can use with the controller .

 

[banbury frank]

Hi

OK try this

36V15Ah Li-Ion Alloy Shell EBike Battery Pack - BMSBATTERY

Frank

 

[Scottyf]

i've got a 9ah battery that i'm using with a 20amp controller.

I know the cells are panasonic brand ncr 18560. There are rated at 1c continuous and 2c max discharge. Meaning at peak it can discharge safely at double its amp.

Now in my case i'm probably pushing the battery a little bit to much as the battery can deliver 18amp's max discharge. However i do pull up to 20.3amp's.

What happens is that when you pull more amp's from a battery you draw. The more it heats up and the less life cycles you'll get.

 

[stormb22]

ok thanks for that i was given wrong information and if i had know the controller would damage the battery would not had used it

 

[Scottyf]

what controller are you using?

 

[stormb22]

i am using a 350w controller made by e-crazyman for the 8fun motor as the sunlova controller was completely useless in the power assist mode i needed to boost it a little

 

[Scottyf]

what is the amp rating i mean. What is the max rating?

 

[stormb22]

i m told its 20mp

 

[Scottyf]

should be ok though. Mine runs fine with that.

 

[stormb22]

to be honest i had a power problem with this kit from the start even before i changed the controller , the battery would not switch off by the switch (and this was before i changed any wiring or controller) the information i was given was that this battery would be fine for the controller but would shorten the life cycle of it (what you had said) it seems pointless buying another battery from sunlova as the kit with their controller is no good for me. i should had bought the Ailien kit so i only have myself to blame