puncture

[lessped]

Hi all please forgive an old gezzer but i was trying to repair atube on my old Diamond back and cant seem to get the solution to stick the patch on i do have an old puncture outfit it has to be said ,i did hear that modern tube's might be a different material as opposed to rubber . Seeking enlightenment from any guru's out there ..!

 

[flecc]

After applying the solution to the tube you must let it dry completely to a dull surface. Then apply the patch, press it down and it will be securely fixed immediately.

Technically it's a contact adhesive, one touch and it's secure.

That's with the patches that have a peel off silver coating to expose a surface ready to use.
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[Mussels]

Against most instructions I have found that applying the glue liberally and pressing the patch on quickly has worked best, this has once led to the inner tube being glued to the tyre though.

 

[flecc]

Against most instructions I have found that applying the glue liberally and pressing the patch on quickly has worked best, this has once led to the inner tube being glued to the tyre though.

But surely the patch just slides about Mussels, that's what I've both seen and found? Maybe your pressure squeezed almost all the solution out?

I suspect slipping around was the problem for Lessped.
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[Mussels]

But surely the patch just slides about Mussels, that's what I've both seen and found? Maybe your pressure squeezed almost all the solution out?

I suspect slipping around was the problem for Lessped.
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I find it sticks quickly and well like that, if I let it dry then it doesn't stick well at all..

 

[flecc]

I find it sticks quickly and well like that, if I let it dry then it doesn't stick well at all..

That baffles me, I can only think you apply the solution so thinly that it dries very quickly.

I'm speaking as someone who many years ago in the trade had to do all customer punctures, anything up to a dozen or more a day.

I have to challenge you saying that a patch does not stick to dried solution, the adhesion is instantaneous even without pressure and the patch almost impossible to separate. That happens even after a very extended period.
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[fishzx7r]

That baffles me, I can only think you apply the solution so thinly that it dries very quickly.

I'm speaking as someone who many years ago in the trade had to do all customer punctures, anything up to a dozen or more a day.

I have to challenge you saying that a patch does not stick to dried solution, the adhesion is instantaneous even without pressure and the patch almost impossible to separate. That happens even after a very extended period.
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Got to agree with Flecc, let it dry and it sticks like S--- to a blanket, maybe the adhesive as gone off, he did say it was an old repair outfit,

Rob

 

[Mussels]

That baffles me, I can only think you apply the solution so thinly that it dries very quickly.

I'm speaking as someone who many years ago in the trade had to do all customer punctures, anything up to a dozen or more a day.

I have to challenge you saying that a patch does not stick to dried solution, the adhesion is instantaneous even without pressure and the patch almost impossible to separate. That happens even after a very extended period.
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I doubt very much you are wrong and I'm confused about it, I was putting it on thin so that it dried fairly soon so that may well have been the problem. But it works for me when it is barely tacky, maybe the glue has changed a bit?

 

[flecc]

I doubt very much you are wrong and I'm confused about it, I was putting it on thin so that it dried fairly soon so that may well have been the problem. But it works for me when it is barely tacky, maybe the glue has changed a bit?

That's the answer then, the thin coating drying quickly, but a benefit rather than a problem. Economical and ensuring a quick repair rather than hanging around for a thicker coat drying.

The rubber solution is the same as ever and it can indeed dry quickly when thin. For example, we always used it in the trade for fitting handlebar rubber grips securely. Coated just inside the start of the grip and the grip thrust on rapidly, it soon sticks due to the coating being pressured thin as the grip slides on. Any hesitation and the grip can stick part way on.
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[Mussels]

That's the answer then, the thin coating drying quickly, but a benefit rather than a problem. Economical and ensuring a quick repair rather than hanging around for a thicker coat drying.

It is a problem for me as the patch doesn't stick.

 

[Orraman]

Further to what flec said,
I clean the tube, rubbing hard with a cloth.
Abrade the tube lightly around the puncture, area larger than patch.
Dust off loose particles.
Apply solution thinly, rub solution into local area until tacky, allow to dry, this takes only a few seconds.
Repeat solution as above.
Apply patch with as much pressure as possible.
Dust area with chalk.
Downside is one sticky fingertip but it will rub off once dry and dirty.
Time taken, not much longer than to read this aloud with feeling and sensitivity.
Dave

 

[piotrmacheta]

I have to agree with the 'thin coat let it dry for a couple of minutes' approach and this has worked for many years. Press patch on and hold firmly to warm slightly.
This year I started using the instant patches which are pre-glued and although quick and easy they are not quite as reliable as the glue and patch method but they are great for the 'novice'. I found out last week that below freezing these do not stick at all, almost as if there is no glue on the patch so always carry a normal patch kit as well.
I now have a slime filled tyre as it was a real pain to remove a rear wheel hub. Hope they work.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

Here's how I've always done it: Roughen the area first with sandpaper or the mini cheese grater that comes with the kit; put a blob of solution onto the hole; spread it quickly and thinly with my finger; leave it to dry (about a minute) peel and apply the patch -sticks instantly; apply talcum powdew or grated chalk to it afterwards so that the surplus solution doesn't stick to the tyre.

This has always worked for me, but my friend uses the new solutionless instant stick type - the yellow ones that you just peel off and stick directly to the inner tube. I guess technology moves on. Does anybody else have good or bad experience with these? Can you keep them a long time before using them?

 

[flecc]

I have tried the solutionless patches two years ago on my trailer tyres and had them let me down later the two times used. In each case they were slow leaking and one appeared to peel away far too easily. I think it takes the solution to completely seal the patch to tube junction, a self-adhesive not good enough for that since the tube surface is far from being a mirror finish.

When using solution I only make one application but a moderately generous one to ensure the layer of solution dries to a flat smooth surface, and in some weather conditions that can take a little while to dry to a matt surface. Such is my mistrust of self adhesives that I also remove the protector from the patch and apply a thin coat of solution to the patch surface.

The resulting bond of the dried out surfaces is effectively a vulcanising. As remarked above, I did this in the trade for years, having learnt at the outset that one's repairs have to be 100% reliable for customers. They are not very forgiving when a repaired puncture lets them down on the road.
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[Mussels]

Maybe my idea of thin is a bit too thin, I'm not the most generous bloke around.
Regarding the sticky patches, I've found them unreliable and don't bother with them either.

 

[flecc]

Maybe my idea of thin is a bit too thin,

I'd say use a bit more and be patient for long enough for the solution surface to dry to a matt finish (not easy when it's raining and one is stooping over the area to keep it dry!).

Then dust using the supplied french chalk to prevent the overflow solution area from sticking to the tyre. The ridged area on the base of the modern plastic box puncture kits is useless for scraping some french chalk dust from the supplied block, the edge of your house key far more effective if on the road.
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[Scimitar]

The ridged area on the base of the modern plastic box puncture kits is useless for scraping some french chalk dust from the supplied block, the edge of your house key far more effective if on the road.
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I hold the box upside-down and scrape the chalk block into it, then turn the box over in one motion onto the patch so the dust covers it. Seems to work well enough.

 

[fishzx7r]

Hi just a question about "Slime" does it work on spoked wheels, as I'v heard it only works on solid wheels with tubeless tyre's

Rob

 

[flecc]

I hold the box upside-down and scrape the chalk block into it, then turn the box over in one motion onto the patch so the dust covers it. Seems to work well enough.

This control of the dust not what I meant though. I meant the coarse plastic ridging doesn't produce the very fine dust that a steel edge does, and some makes don't scrape anything much off at all since the ridges in the moulding are too rounded.

If it works for you of course that's ok.
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[Scimitar]

This control of the dust not what I meant though. I meant the coarse plastic ridging doesn't produce the very fine dust that a steel edge does, and some makes don't scrape anything much off at all since the ridges in the moulding are too rounded.

If it works for you of course that's ok.
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Right, see what you mean. I've had one like that but fortunately had kept the old box with sharper edges.
I've had so few punctures that by the time I get to use the kit it's well out of date. Must check it again.